G1900 Fender removal

[22R]

Anyone know how the fenders are removed. I have seat off but the bolts on the brackets going from fender bottom down to frame on each side do not seem to loosen anything. Does the fender just rest on the gas tank ? Any tips ?

22R

 

[RCW]

Re: Kubota 1900 Fender removal

For starters - how about the entire model #....

We'll be further ahead once we know what tractor we're working on.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Re: Kubota 1900 Fender removal

Getting good quality answers from the crowd requires better quality input from you...
Like a real Kubota model Number as a 1900 means very little to most of us!

EDIT: RCW types faster than I do!

 

[22R]

Re: Kubota 1900 Fender removal

Sorry Guys G1900 w 54***8221; deck riding mower

 

[RCW]

Re: Kubota 1900 Fender removal

Go here:

https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/

Agree to the legal stuff, then type in G1900.

OPEN the parts book for your model - there's 2 versions.

It look like the Bonnet/Hood/Chassis section has the FENDER section and diagram.

I can make out several mounting points in the diagram.

Also, I would highly suggest you get a Workshop Manual (WSM).

I didn't see one listed at http://kubotabooks.com/ but maybe you can find one from an online retailer like Messicks, eBay, Amazon, etc.

 

[lugbolt]

Remove seat. Remove all the bolts in the top of the fender that reside under the seat. IIRC there are two once the seat brackets are removed. Then from the bottom, remove 2 each bolts that hold the fender to the floor. At that point it should be loose. Wiggle it over the cruise control lever, deck lift lever and some of the early ones has a "tow lever" that you pushed (or pulled?) to push the tractor manually-that knob might have to come off.

No, it don't just set on the tank. On top of the tank is a set of brackets and supports that the fender is bolted to. Once the fender is out of the way you will see it. While you're in there, power wash the transmission real good; the "fins" on the HST are all that cools it via the fan, exactly like a BX tractor (there is no oil cooler, per say). If you can get it cleaned up, it'll reward you with a cooler running HST. Good time also to check the u-joints and the fan.

 

[22R]

Mr Lugnut thanks so much for your help. I got it off before I left for work this am. The U joints should they have any play ? Mine are not sloppy but do have a bit of slack I would say.

Thanks,
22R

 

[lugbolt]

U-joints should all be tight. When the rear one fails and the yoke breaks (and I've seen this happen) it usually flops around and destroys parts-including (but not limited to) the transmission. Also while you're doing that, check the coupling on the back of the engine. That is a common wear point as well. Splines on the shaft should slide over the splines on the coupling, but somewhat tightly. There's a grease fitting on it that never gets greased and then the splines wear out, the shaft flops around on it, starts vibrating, etc et.

 

[22R]

I will try to shoot a video of me moving the U joint and post it. Are the cir-clips on the outside or inside ? Hard to remove ? Can the U joint be matched at like a Grainger store or only buy Kubota ones ? They are bout 40 a piece.
Thanks again
22R

 

[22R]

Mr Lugbolt, i cannot get a video to upload to the site. Would you have a phone that I could send some vids to to get your advice. Looking at it I think the U joints may be ok the slack appears to be in the shaft behind the fan to the splines on the transmission shaft. The bolt is there to hold it but there is play in the fitment ??? But maybe it is the Universal. If so are they hard to remove ? Are the clips internal or external ?
I appreciate any help.

22R

 

[lugbolt]

I don't have a mobile phone. Landline only and it can't get pics or videos.

If there is side to side slack in the transmission shaft, there should be sign of oil leakage as well. If it ain't wet around the shaft, the transmission is ok and the yoke itself is worn. The part has been superceded to a new one which is a little harder material, but not too hard. U-joints are not too bad to put in. Internal clips. Unfortunatly it sounds like you may be looking at pulling the engine, then removing the shaft from the tractor; I'd suggest replacing both u-joints, the front yoke and the coupling that is bolted to the engine pulley as well as the rear yoke. This will give you many more decades of trouble-free operation out of the shaft assembly and you'll likely never have to worry about it coming apart in the future. Same thing I had to do to mine; it really ain't that hard to do either. Took me maybe 2 hours to get the shaft out including engine removal. There is only a cable and a few wires, radiator hoses, etc then 4 bolts-lift it off and you're right there. While it's apart, it's a wonderful time to power-wash the tractor frame so that when you reinstall the engine it will be nice and clean.

There is another way to do it; well two more ways. First one, remove the steering wheel, all of the electrical components, disconnect the harnesses, remove the dash assembly, then steering shaft. Unbolt and remove the steering pedestal then remove the floor assembly. At that point you can kind of pry the engine forward on it's rubber mounts to free the shaft from the transmission and then remove it. If it's a 4 wheel steer model the steering gear is kind of in the way. This is not quite the hardest way to do it but close. The hardest way is to disassemble the shaft in the frame. Unless you have racoon hands, it's not even worth trying to do it.

Just pull the engine...real easy. Just like a BX tractor, actually exactly like a BX and people hate those HST cooling fans for that reason, but it's not all that bad. Guarantee you that if you have any mechanical aptitude, you will get through with it and think, "man that wasn't really that hard".

 

[22R]

I don't have a mobile phone. Landline only and it can't get pics or videos.

I like dat ! Ole school for sure.
I read online that someone unbolted the three bolts holding on the triangle plate and slide it down to remove the drive shaft. With my fender and steering and dash already out it looks like I could access it from the bottom fairly easy ?? But I also looked and the removing engine does not seem to bad either. I sure appreciate all your help Sir.

22R