G1700 G1800 G1900 Battery cable and fusable link position

[Hugo Habicht]

Hello,

the battery cable on my G1900 is not routed correctly and I could not figure out how to route it from the starter to the battery avoiding sharp corners on the frame, the PTO pulley, the front axle and the hot exhaust. Also the fusible link seems to be missing.

Could somebody please post one or two pictures showing the original routing of the battery cable to the starter motor and showing the position of this fusible link?

Also does anybody know the current rating of this fusible link?

Kind regards,
Hugo

 

[22R]

Hi Hugo unsure how pics will come out but mine the positve routs back from post away from exhaust and zip tied to frame in a couple spots. It goes slightly pass the starter terminal then loops back around to it and attaches at the starter terminal. Pay no attention to the small black box that is a relay I installed to help with the no start intermittent issue. Unsure on fusable link rating

 

[22R]

And BTW I think I put the cable wrap on the leads when I replaced both pos n negs a few years ago.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Hi,

thank you very much, I can see now where the cable is routed.
The strange thing is though I do not think there was space alongside the engine mount on mine, because this would have been the obvious place. But sometimes you do not see the obvious. Have to look again on Wednesday when I collect it.

Funny you mention the black box, mine has a relay mounted there too, probably for the same reason.

Kind regards,
Hugo

 

[Hugo Habicht]

And BTW I think I put the cable wrap on the leads when I replaced both pos n negs a few years ago.

Definitely a good idea, will do that on mine too. The cable insulation was chafed through in one place already and this is an unfused cable directly from the battery.

 

[dragfan66]

My G1800 calls for a 67111-55190 fusible link. There is a picture of it on Messick's website. They don't give the rating though.

The battery cable is tight for sure. I used a combination of split loom, tape, and wire ties to keep it from all the things that would damage it.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Thank you for the hint with the Messicks website.
So it is basically a piece of wire. I do not really see the purpose of this device.

 

[22R]

i agree I always thought it was a bypass till I read it was fusable link. Messicks may can tell ya if you email or call them.

22R

 

[Hugo Habicht]

The question is if "fusible" means "acts as a fuse" or "link that can be replaced by a fuse".

I never understood why vehicle manufacturers routed long cables from the battery through half the vehicle before a fuse box appears. In my humble opinion the fuse box should be right by the battery.

 

[dragfan66]

I did away with the fusible link when I completely rewired my machine.

It may have something to do with the glow plug circuit, not sure about that.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

I did away with the fusible link when I completely rewired my machine.

Rewiring everything may be an option at a later stage. All those connectors are a potential source of trouble. And the number of cables is not that high. But wires are very time consuming in my experience and the mechanics are more urgent right now.

 

[Jim L.]

Fusible links are a legacy device which act as fuses. Basically a conductor of smaller size, with special insulation so as not to burn, and will melt at over-current, protecting the main conductor.

Now they come with their own connector and are colored to indicate their rated amperage.

Good practice is to have one close to the battery to save the main cable if a short develops. Running naked without one has the possibility of burning up the machine if a short develops.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Hello Jim,

thank you for the explanation!
The colour from the Messicks web site shows green. Would you know the rating of that? Otherwise I could measure the current and together with the wire cross section have an educated guess. I will put in a normal fuse; I am not very fond of open wires melting.

Kind regards,
Hugo

 

[lugbolt]

generally if a fusible link fails, you have to cut it out and replace (butt connectors or soldering, your choice). If you have to go through all that work, just put a fuse holder in it's place. Then you can put a fuse in it when or if it fails again rather than spending an hour fiddling with a fusible link.

 

[Jim L.]

A green fusible link would be rated at 20-25 amps. BUT, I would never depend on a picture to represent the true item. Example: Today I received a drywall texture sponge which showed in the picture as two each, big as a man's hand; what I got was one and it was the size of a biscuit.

More to the story. Starter uses high current for a short time. Other such as lights could be all night running. The heat produced, the type of insulation and its temperature rating, connectors rating, all go into sizing the conductor. And in the case of the starter, low resistance of the wiring is a major concern. So I would stick with the original wire gauge and insulation type (including temperature rating). Same with fusible link.

I would use a connector for the fusible link. If you can find a dc breaker rated for automotive and high temperature, and high amps - maybe. You would have to mount the breaker securely, as its mass vibrating on a machine would stress break the wiring, not to mention oil and fuel environment. Same with fuse and fuse holder. And, fuses have a time constant for current. Which goes back to starter current for short time, will it blow the fuse quickly vs fusible link which should blow slowly.

More than anybody cares to know.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Hello Jim, Lugbolt,

I agree with your view of pictures on web sites and to replace the link.

The starter current is not going over the link, only everything else including pre glow current. I will measure the worst case current and select a suitable fuse. Various fuse parameters are understood.

Kind regards,
Hugo