Future tractor

[imarobot]

I plan on buying a used tractor within the next few months, nothing big, something around 25-30HP. Some of the smaller tractors I've been looking at are 3-cylinder diesels. Somewhat larger tractors are 4-cylinder. I assume a 4-cylinder has its advantages, but is it what I may need?
I'm looking for something to plow or snowblower a 400' driveway and also do light loader work.
Also hoping for a front snowblower if that matters, which would mean a mid-PTO.

 

[chim]

I'd put a plow on that cabbed L5740.

 

[jimh406]

If you want a front mount snowblower, buy a B2650, LX2610, or LX2620. Otherwise, L2501HST, or L2502HST. I use the front loader to move piles of snow ,and use a rear blade to plow.

 

[RMS]

An lx2610 would do you fine. Mine handles the snow real well and it's done any loader type of work I needed to do.

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

I would have thought an L5740 w/ cab combined with a L2195A FR Snowblower would have left most wanting for nothing.

What are I missing here?

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

I would have thought an L5740 w/ cab combined with a L2195A FR Snowblower would have left most wanting for nothing.

What are I missing here?

Second property and not wanting to trailer???

 

[imarobot]

Second property and not wanting to trailer???

Exactly!
I need a tractor at both properties but only a smaller one at the other property

 

[PaulL]

Is the question "what is the least expensive tractor I can buy that will do what I want?" Because the answer is different depending on whether you're saving money, or looking for something that'll make you happiest.

I think a B2601 would do what you want, a BX probably wouldn't. An LX or a Grand L would also do it. A standard L and anything bigger doesn't have a mid-PTO.

Do you need a cab? If so, does that cab need to be factory? If so, then the B is out, and the LX or Grand-L are the only options.

Does it need to be new? A bigger used machine is better buying than a smaller new machine. Depends on whether you are OK with a used machine at a second property, or whether it's really important that it work first time every time - and so a new machine with warranty is worth the spend.

Snowblower and cab are your big drivers. All small tractors will do light loader work (depending on what you mean by light).

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

Exactly!
I need a tractor at both properties but only a smaller one at the other property

Are you planning to use tractor for other chores / tasks? That might make a bit of difference?

But if solely for snow removal might be interesting to get estimates from locals with a plow? In that case, the place is ready for you to pull in the driveway when you visit. If you get so much snow up your 2nd place and you can’t get off the road when you visit/travel there because of snow depth, that’s something to think about IMO.

 

[imarobot]

Is the question "what is the least expensive tractor I can buy that will do what I want?" Because the answer is different depending on whether you're saving money, or looking for something that'll make you happiest.
Not necessarily looking for the cheapest but don't want to spend more than I need to get what I require.

I think a B2601 would do what you want, a BX probably wouldn't. An LX or a Grand L would also do it. A standard L and anything bigger doesn't have a mid-PTO.
I would want the mid PTO for a front mount snowblower and Mid Mount Mower. So, your comment eliminates some models. Would love a Grand L, I'm spoiled by my current tractor, but don't think I need that there.

Do you need a cab? If so, does that cab need to be factory? If so, then the B is out, and the LX or Grand-L are the only options.
Cab would be great, but not necessary (although I would swear at myself when the snowblower blows snow all over me). Been there, done that before.
I don't care if it's factory or not. However, I guess if not factory I would need AC in the summer when mowing. I don't think I would want to be mowing in a greenhouse.

Does it need to be new? A bigger used machine is better buying than a smaller new machine. Depends on whether you are OK with a used machine at a second property, or whether it's really important that it work first time every time - and so a new machine with warranty is worth the spend.
As mentioned in my initial post I am looking for something used. However, as I've found from previous tractor purchases, the price of a good used tractor sometimes ain't much less than a new tractor. Although I've seen price drops on several posted used tractors. Used tractor problems vs new tractor problems; at least the new has a warranty.

Snowblower and cab are your big drivers. All small tractors will do light loader work (depending on what you mean by light).
Exactly, the 2nd property won't need much loader work, yeah I say that now. Yes, snowblower and hopefully a cab

Great questions! Added my answers above.

 

[imarobot]

Are you planning to use tractor for other chores / tasks? That might make a bit of difference?
Yes, other chores, light loader bucket, fork work, mowing, grading with a rear blade I already have a front loader forks. Which brings up another wish. I would want the SSQA to accommodate the loader implements I currently have.

But if solely for snow removal might be interesting to get estimates from locals with a plow? In that case, the place is ready for you to pull in the driveway when you visit. If you get so much snow up your 2nd place and you can’t get off the road when you visit/travel there because of snow depth, that’s something to think about IMO
I do have a local guy that will plow if needed. I have a place to park if I can't get into the driveway. Potential is for a lot of snow in the Great North Woods of NH. So far this year there has been more than we have seen in the last several years. A traditional winter is back!

More good questions. Replies above.

 

[PaulL]

So, if Grand-L is a bit excessive for a second property, then it's B2601 or LX (if older, then used to be called Bxx50, but basically the same machine). Stay away from the B3350 if you're in the old "large frame B" - the emissions controls on them were problematic. They're mostly sorted now, but no reason to buy a problem if you're buying now.

So, that gives you:
- B2601
- LX2610, LX2620, or one of the more powerful LX machines if you want that HP to blow snow
- B2650 (the older version of the LX2610)

All are available with SSQA, and if a used one doesn't have SSQA you can add the adapter.

Between those, I own a B2601 and it's a good machine. The LX2610/B2650 have the same HP in a larger chassis. You haven't described anything that needs a larger chassis. I did this table years ago on the relative capacities of the machines, from memory the LX will do about 15% more on most metrics.

BX vs B01 vs B50

A table I had made for BX and B01 when I was looking. I've seen a few questions on differences, so thought I'd post the full table including the B50 series (and now L2501 as well), because lots of people ask about the differences. Really no question or point in the post beyond contributing...

www.orangetractortalks.com

In choosing, I'd say:
1. What's available used near you. A good machine at a good price in either size is more important than which size you buy
2. Do you want a cab. That really means B2650 or LX26x0
3. The LX2620 had some hydraulic changes that made it quieter to run. People who don't like HST whine are quite excited by that, and apparently with a cab the whine is amplified. Maybe worth going new to get that.
4. Do you want the slightly bigger machine - if a B2601 will feel too small, then obviously you need to go B2650/LX2610
5. I think the B2650/LX2610 had a digital dash that some people don't like. If that's important to you, then B2601

Hard to go wrong here, these are solid machines that will do what you want. Perhaps the decider would be finding one with a snowblower already on it? I can't recall if they both take the same snowblower, and I seem to recall the quick connect is a pricy piece of kit.

 

[mikester]

The older I get I am considering selling my ZD and buying a new F series mower with the removable cab option and use it for clearing snow. I get a crick in my neck driving backwards all the time. I think theres a 25HP and 35HP version.

https://steenent.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/kubota-f2690e.pdf

Benefits of the 3 cylinder engines are better fuel economy.

 

[imarobot]

Came across a B7800 with heated after market cab, loader and rear blade, tire chains on all wheels, 812 hrs, power steering, block heater. Asking $15,000.
Any opinions on this?
Does not have SSQC, but could this be added?

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

Came across a B7800 with heated after market cab, loader and rear blade, tire chains on all wheels, 812 hrs, power steering, block heater. Asking $15,000.
Any opinions on this?
Does not have SSQC, but could this be added?

I sort of think about average snow depths and then likely snow depths. As an example, our place in lake effect region can have just a normal day with a decent wind across the fetch and bring 4-8” without thinking about it. An average event is anywhere from 8-16”, and seasonally there is usually an event with 16-24” event. In the 7 years we have owned it, we have had (3) 3-4’ events and last year we had a 6’ event over a few days.

My point here is only you (and your neighbors) know what snow removal needs are between the space you have to push snow or need to blow it and how deep)

My wife’s brother lived near the coast in NH (I understand that might not be applicable for you)and he regular got nor’easters that dropped feet on them and it was common for them to have pretty good base most of winter…once that base set, he was sort of hemmed in.

How deep are you average snow events? (do you have room to push it or need to blow it?)

If you get a couple feet of snow, how would you plan to move the snow to open your drive? (Scooping your way out or driving through and pulling with the back blade?)

Have you had a B sized machine before? Does the amount of snow you get seem reasonable for the B compared to what you have experienced with your L?

 

[jimh406]

SSQC can be added if you weld, but it's not free. I'd skip this one. In my opinion, aftermarket cabs leave a lot to be desired if you plan to do a cab since there is no AC.

From my research, the B7800 is at least a 2008 model. That's fairly old to me.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Is the question "what is the least expensive tractor I can buy that will do what I want?" Because the answer is different depending on whether you're saving money, or looking for something that'll make you happiest.

The answer is always: An M-Series.

 

[imarobot]

I sort of think about average snow depths and then likely snow depths. As an example, our place in lake effect region can have just a normal day with a decent wind across the fetch and bring 4-8” without thinking about it. An average event is anywhere from 8-16”, and seasonally there is usually an event with 16-24” event. In the 7 years we have owned it, we have had (3) 3-4’ events and last year we had a 6’ event over a few days.
This is why I'm asking you guys for inputs to make sure I get what I will need. My place is in northern NH almost Canada. It's up in the mountains so there is usually a lot of snow at that elevation, and it usually isn't very wet. I'm not sure what the average snowfall is there, but it's measured in feet. I'll have to check on that.

My point here is only you (and your neighbors) know what snow removal needs are between the space you have to push snow or need to blow it and how deep)

My wife’s brother lived near the coast in NH (I understand that might not be applicable for you)and he regular got nor’easters that dropped feet on them and it was common for them to have pretty good base most of winter…once that base set, he was sort of hemmed in.
This place would typically get more snow than near the coast.

How deep are you average snow events? (do you have room to push it or need to blow it?)
I have room to push and blow it.

If you get a couple feet of snow, how would you plan to move the snow to open your drive? (Scooping your way out or driving through and pulling with the back blade?)
If I don't initially get a tractor with a snowblower I would plow it with a rear blade if not too deep and use the FEL to move the snowbanks back as needed. If there was too much, I would move it with the FEL. This is why my ultimate goal is to have a snowblower, preferably front mounted. My body doesn't like looking backwards for very long any more.

Have you had a B sized machine before? Does the amount of snow you get seem reasonable for the B compared to what you have experienced with your L?
Never had a B tractor. Only other tractor I have had was a JD1050, which I think would be comparable to a B. Mostly moved snow with a rear blade for many years, then later with a rear snowblower. Worked fine with the snow I have at this property, still in feet, but not as much as the other property. My L would easily work for snow removal at either place. But I do need that here for summer mowing and other stuff.

 

[imarobot]

SSQC can be added if you weld, but it's not free. I'd skip this one. In my opinion, aftermarket cabs leave a lot to be desired if you plan to do a cab since there is no AC.

From my research, the B7800 is at least a 2008 model. That's fairly old to me.

Yes, a cab without AC is a big concern. I wonder how others with aftermarket cabs deal with this...

 

[jimh406]

Yes, a cab without AC is a big concern. I wonder how others with aftermarket cabs deal with this...

I don't have a cab. I don't go out when it's the hottest which means I usually go out in the AM.