Furniture Finish Restoration

[RCW]

Not a major project by any means. Always liked this little table.

I think mahogany top. Drawer looks mahogany with a black walnut accent.

Don't really want to strip and refinish fluted legs, edge banding, etc. At 100 +/- years old, likely a shellac or varnish finish.

Will likely just use a walnut colored "restoration" product to smooth colors and cover scratches on all surfaces except the top.

Top will be sanded with steel wool and have a dose of clear satin polyurethane. Leave natural color.

The Mrs. said I did something to the top 20 years ago. Don't recall what I did. Might have been no more than Lemon Oil - don't recall.

Kind of makes me look forward to retirement when I'll have more time to do this stuff.

This is the kind of thing I really like doing.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Danish oil will blend colors and perk it right up.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Back when Homer Formby's products were big, I did some restoration with those products. The ingredients were the same as paint stripper, so I started using stripper, with steel wool. Just dip the steel wool, or scrub pad, in the stripper and rub. Rinse the residue in the stripper periodically. You can control the amount you take off by the amount you rub and rinse. Hopefully you have a practice area!

 

[RCW]

Danish oil will blend colors and perk it right up.

Back when Homer Formby's products were big, I did some restoration with those products. The ingredients were the same as paint stripper, so I started using stripper, with steel wool. Just dip the steel wool, or scrub pad, in the stripper and rub. Rinse the residue in the stripper periodically. You can control the amount you take off by the amount you rub and rinse. Hopefully you have a practice area!

Yep - thanks much. Over the years I’ve used Danish Oil and Homer Formby’s products quite a bit.

Both worked well.

I'm leaning toward Danish oil on this one, as apparently Formby’s is out of business.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Yep - thanks much. Over the years I’ve used Danish Oil and Homer Formby’s products quite a bit.

Both worked well.

I'm leaning toward Danish oil on this one, as apparently Formby’s is out of business.

Yeah, I think MinWax/Sherwin Williams put Formby's to rest. Apparently, Howard's is the new kid on the block.

 

[jyoutz]

I’ve had great results with whiping polyurethane. You can also wet sand with fine sandpaper between coats and it builds a very durable finish. Either clear or stain tinted.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I’ve had great results with whiping polyurethane. You can also wet sand with fine sandpaper between coats and it builds a very durable finish. Either clear or stain tinted.

Try the new water based spray polys, they are an incredible finish.

 

[jyoutz]

Try the new water based spray polys, they are an incredible finish.

I’ve heard that. I do like building up a finish by wet sanding between multiple coats. Can you do that with the water based polys?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I’ve heard that. I do like building up a finish by wet sanding between multiple coats. Can you do that with the water based polys?

You don't need to wet sand you can do it dry and get the same results.
Much more forgiving than older poly.

 

[RCW]

I’ve used a spray poly a couple times with good results.

Don’t recall if water based, but think it was.

Wolfman is correct, went down real well. I may have buffed dry with a fine scotch bright pad on an orbital sander between coats, but just a little.

I know I have a water based satin spray poly on the shelf. This won’t be a gloss finish.

Maybe I’ll use it on this project and give a review. Good time, as this table is small.

I opted for the Howard restoration product over Danish oil this time. Looks similar to the old Formby’s product, so I’ll give it a try.

$11 delivered to my door from Amazon and made in USA (with global materials).

 

[RCW]

So far so good, with some deviations….

I dribbled some of the Howard Mahogany on the top, so that got stained too. Not a bad thing.

Noticed corner of the mahogany top delaminated. Of course, all my wood glue was hardened up….

Had some new 100% silicone….heck, it might work.

I’ll purposely use the water based spray poly after a good cure of the petroleum based products.

Brought it inside where it’s warm for now to cure and dry.

Be interested how it works out.

 

[RCW]

Came out pretty well. Far from perfect, but much better than before. Can still see the water spot, but I’m okay as is.

Like the Howard product.

Spray poly didn’t lay down real smooth, but it was low-50”s here. Warmer would have been better.

Buffed it with a scotch bright pad. Pretty smooth, but more wouldn’t hurt.