Fuel supply problems on my B9200 HST

[fws]

I have been struggling with a fuel supply problem on my B9200 for quite a while. I have flushed and thoroughly cleaned the tank and put in new diesel. I have changed the filter and put in new fuel lines including the excess fuel drain line from the injectors to the tank. The air cleaner has been removed and the 4 steel lines from the injector pump to the injectors have been removed and thoroughly cleaned. I removed the injectors, cleaned them and their spray pattern is perfect. The rack is moving freely. Fuel spills from the looosened banjo when I crank the tractor. Fuel also squirts from the loosened #3 injector nut, but not from the other three. I am at a loss as to what to try next and would appreciate any members advice on how I might get the B9200 running again.

 

[fws]

Forgot to add. It is a purely mechanival Stop system with no solenoid.

 

[Bee-Positive]

Wild ass guess here.

You said the rack is moving freely but did you take apart / rebuild the injector pump?
Here's a video, not your model so the parts are a little different but it has a good methodology how to go about it.

 

[fws]

Thank you Bee-Positive. No, I didn't take the injector pump apart and am hoping I don't have to do that. But, I will closely follow the video you sent if I have to. It is raining here today and then B9200 is outside so I probably won't be able to do much on it today. I was going to pursue trying to bleed the system again and again and again to see if I can get fuel squirting out of the other 3 injector nuts. It's a lenthy process as the advice is to only crank the engine in short bursts to avoid burning out the starter motor.

 

[Russell King]

You might want to be sure that when you took the lines between the injection pump and the injectors that didn’t mess up the fuel delivery. I am not sure it applies to your tractor but sometimes that gets messed up by accidentally rotating the larger nut under the fuel line nut.

I think you may need to have a qualified rebuilder set that back if it is messed up.

You can see if fluid is being ejected out of the injection pump by removing the fuel lines and cranking the engine.

If you can decompress the engine (decompression lever or emergency kill knob) that will help in bleeding it easier.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Since you've opened it all up, back up a step and remove all the injector lines from the Injection pump to the Injectors.
make sure the stop rod is not engaged, Set the throttle to high and while cranking watch the outputs of the injection pump.
If you do not get fountains out of the outputs you have an issue with either fuel not being delivered to the pump or a bad injection pump.
DO NOT open the pump up, you can not rebuild that pump, there is no parts that you will be able to replace.
( The video posted is a completely different style pump)
You will either need to buy a aftermarket pump, $650 to $1200, or you will need to send it to a professional rebuilder.

 

[fws]

I bit the bullet and with great difficulty removed the injector pump. In order to get the pump out I had to first remove the bracket holding the fuel filter to the intake manifold, remove the electrical lines on the first two glow plugs, remove those glow plugs and then remove the intake manifold. Only then could I get at the 6 bolts securing the injector pump to its housing. Certainly not the simple procedure I have seen on videos!

The injector pump is not the shiny light aluminium cassette I have seen on all Kubota injector pump videos. It is a really heavy rugged block machined from cast iron and made by Diesel Kiki in 1986. It lacks the external plates and screws on the aluminium cassette pumps. The lower rollers and their pistons appear to be similar to the other pumps and are secured by 4 individual fine wire clips rather than a single clip. I cannot tell what the remainder of the internal mechanism is. The rack moves back and forth freely but does not drop out so must have an internal stop securing it. The cams below the injector pump appear to be in excellent condition and the timing shims remained attached to the pump when I withdrew it.

I would be very grateful to any members who have had experience with dis-assembling this type of cast iron pump for any information they can provide before I delve any further into it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I bit the bullet and with great difficulty removed the injector pump. In order to get the pump out I had to first remove the bracket holding the fuel filter to the intake manifold, remove the electrical lines on the first two glow plugs, remove those glow plugs and then remove the intake manifold. Only then could I get at the 6 bolts securing the injector pump to its housing. Certainly not the simple procedure I have seen on videos!

The injector pump is not the shiny light aluminium cassette I have seen on all Kubota injector pump videos. It is a really heavy rugged block machined from cast iron and made by Diesel Kiki in 1986. It lacks the external plates and screws on the aluminium cassette pumps. The lower rollers and their pistons appear to be similar to the other pumps and are secured by 4 individual fine wire clips rather than a single clip. I cannot tell what the remainder of the internal mechanism is. The rack moves back and forth freely but does not drop out so must have an internal stop securing it. The cams below the injector pump appear to be in excellent condition and the timing shims remained attached to the pump when I withdrew it.

I would be very grateful to any members who have had experience with dis-assembling this type of cast iron pump for any information they can provide before I delve any further into it.

Well I guess you don't want to follow knowledgeable advice, so have a great day and good luck to you!

 

[fws]

Thanks for your reply North Idaho Wolfman. I DID exactly as you suggested. Removed all 4 fuel lines, ensured the Stop Control was all the way forward and set the throttle fully opened. Upon cranking fuel was squirting out of the #3 nipple but the other three remained dry. There is plenty of fuel at the banjo joint so it is not a low fuel supply issue. I cranked it a number of times in short bursts with the same result - no fuel at all spilling from nipples 1, 2 or 4. My conclusion is there is something wrong with the pump. So, I took it out and can now confirm that it is the cast iron Diesel Kiki model. I am in Australia so now intend to seek a pump that I can fit to this B9200 that has been overhauled or that I can overhaul myself. It would be interesting to get some ideas about what may be causing this pump to fail to supply fuel to those three injectors though. Thanks again for your expert advice.

 

[Tx Jim]

It's a little late at this time but Is fuel tank venting? Has water separator control fuel control valve been removed & gallies checked to be sure there's no internal blockage in water seperater housing?

Many yrs ago I had a M4900 that fuel system appeared to be starving of fuel. Upon advice of local Kubota dealer service manager I removed fuel shut off valve from WS housing & located a tiny screen on fuel cut-off valve that was clogged. Cleaned the screen reassembled & engine operating problem was solved!

 

[Russell King]

…
DO NOT open the pump up, you can not rebuild that pump, there is no parts that you will be able to replace.
…
You will either need to buy a aftermarket pump, $650 to $1200, or you will need to send it to a professional rebuilder.

This is the advice you may have ignored.

Here in the USA it would probably be sent off to a professional repair shop like or they may have one for sale.

Home

Your trusted source for diesel parts & services since 1974. Shop online for injection pumps, injectors, turbos, or visit our Eugene, OR shop for expert repairs & upgrades.

oregonfuelinjection.com

Perhaps there is a local shop that can rebuild it for you since they will have the specialized equipment to set it properly.

You may be able to buy a replacement pump from an auto parts store/diesel shop?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

This is the advice you may have ignored.

Here in the USA it would probably be sent off to a professional repair shop like or they may have one for sale.

Home

Your trusted source for diesel parts & services since 1974. Shop online for injection pumps, injectors, turbos, or visit our Eugene, OR shop for expert repairs & upgrades.

oregonfuelinjection.com

Perhaps there is a local shop that can rebuild it for you since they will have the specialized equipment to set it properly.

You may be able to buy a replacement pump from an auto parts store/diesel shop?

I think I have him on the right path, he's in OZ so it's not as simple to get a pump rebuilt as it is here.