Fuel Stabilizer and Winterization

[TGKY]

What is the best fuel stabilizer for both stored diesel and diesel in the tractor. I do still operate my tractor in the winter- maybe a little less, but we have some wide temp swings here in West KY so I always worry about condensation, gelling, bacteria etc..

Curious what folks use- if anything as a diesel fuel stabilizer

As an second question- what do folks like for gas engines- like in side by sides and stored cans

Thanks in Advance

 

[lmichael]

In gasoline IMO you cannot beat Stabil. One caveat there is to do your best to find non ethanol/alcohol fuel. Here in IL that is nearly impossible though I do have one station that sells it. Very expensive (nearly $6 gal) but I only buy a few gallons for my snow blower and walk behind mower. I have switched all my other outdoor equip to electric. Kinda sorry I could not accomplish that for a snowblower when I bought my new one last year.
In diesel I rely on what my old friend told me so many years ago. He trusted Power Service products in his semi. So that's the brand I buy. Is it "best?" IDK but it seems to work, my buddy trusted it, it's what I "know" so I buy it

 

[RCW]

I use this regimen.

Left silver bottle summer, left white bottle winter.

The center biocide is used 12 months.

There’s many good alternatives. I use Power Service because I can get it easily.

 

[Bmyers]

In gasoline I use STA-BIL FUEL STABILIZER

In the diesel fuel I use STA-BIL DIESEL ALL-SEASON

So far, no fuel issues with any of the devices. In addition, before I store my gas equipment (2-cycle or 4-cycle) I run STA-BIL FAST FIX through it to eliminate any of the ethanol potential issues.

 

[Biker1mike]

I use Howes Diesel Treatment. In tractor and 5 gallon can and a quart into my outside fuel oil tank.
Have not had a gel or water issue yet.
Mid NY state, Corner of NY, CT, and MA

 

[William1]

To add, I keep my tractor fully filled, almost to the top to minimize surface area for condensation to occur. My little guy can sit for months sometimes and not get used. I also use a high quality steel fill can that is sealed when closed. Also got one of those 'cold coffee jelly jar' strainers for the tank.

 

[The Evil Twin]

I mostly use Amsoil All In One in all my diesels. Every fill up. I have never used a biocide. If you keep the fuel dry then there is no media for the funk to grow. For me, the most a diesel sits is two months.
Howes is a great additive for the dollar. The Diesel Treat is an all around product. Not only does it remove water, its also a Anti-gell.
PS white is great in the winter and Silver for summer.
.

 

[DustyRusty]

For gasoline, I use STA-BIL 360 Marine Ethanol Treatment and Fuel Stabilizer. For my tractor and diesel generator, I use the white bottle of Power Service. In fact, I don't ever measure how much I put in, I just pour it out of the bottle and "guestimate" that it is the correct amount. I have never had a problem with gelling, nor a problem with bacteria growing in an of my fuel tanks. Most of the time I had been using red-dyed home heating oil since that is what I used in my home heating system. I have a fuel dispensing pump in the garage that was connected to my underground storage tank. Two years ago I had the tank removed along with all the piping so my dispensing pump is no longer functional. I also purchased a 165-gallon Roth oil tank with the thought of using that for my tractor and generator fuel needs, however, I didn't plan far enough in advance, and the price of the home heating oil soared above $5 a gallon, so I never filled the tank. Presently the price has dropped to $4.36 a gallon, so I am still waiting for it to drop again before I will be filling it. I have a sinking feeling that we will not see $3 per gallon for home heating oil again anytime soon.

 

[Pau7220]

 

[lmichael]

In addition to the PS additive, I read somewhere that putting a bit of transmission fluid (ATF) is helpful due to lack of sulphur. So in 5 gal of fuel I also add about 4oz of good ol red ATF. IDK if it's doing good or not. Just something I read somewhere to do

 

[GeoHorn]

….. If you keep the fuel dry then there is no media for the funk to grow…...
.

This is TRUE! But I’m curious just how you Do That.… because the atmosphere has humidity (water) and spores (yeast and fungus) which enters the fuel tank as fuel is consumed (creating ullage) and at night it all cools down and condensation runs down the tank walls and sinks to the bottom of the fuel taking the spores with it. In daytime that tank warms back up and air is expelled and then night-time cool-down occurs and the process reoccurs over and over and over.

The spores germinate and make “mats” of slime and bacterial sludge…which becomes acidic and corrodes metal and clogs filters and ruins pumps.

In the jets I used to fly we used Biobor-JF so that’s what I use in my diesel storage tanks also.
Stabil for gas and Stabil for diesel. Nothing else. Ever. (Down here in Hells Hallway …(Central Texas)…. we don’t get below 15-degrees-F so diesel don’t gel.)

https://www.amazon.com/Biobor-JF-Diesel-Fuel-Biocide/dp/B001HWT1XW/ref=asc_df_B001HWT1XW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312181776237&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12829310115904014090&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028270&hvtargid=pla-623685628207&psc=1

 

[JerryMT]

This is TRUE! But I’m curious just how you Do That.… because the atmosphere has humidity (water) and spores (yeast and fungus) which enters the fuel tank as fuel is consumed (creating ullage) and at night it all cools down and condensation runs down the tank walls and sinks to the bottom of the fuel taking the spores with it. In daytime that tank warms back up and air is expelled and then night-time cool-down occurs and the process reoccurs over and over and over.

The spores germinate and make “mats” of slime and bacterial sludge…which becomes acidic and corrodes metal and clogs filters and ruins pumps.

In the jets I used to fly we used Biobor-JF so that’s what I use in my diesel storage tanks also.
Stabil for gas and Stabil for diesel. Nothing else. Ever. (Down here in Hells Hallway …(Central Texas)…. we don’t get below 15-degrees-F so diesel don’t gel.)

https://www.amazon.com/Biobor-JF-Diesel-Fuel-Biocide/dp/B001HWT1XW/ref=asc_df_B001HWT1XW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312181776237&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12829310115904014090&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028270&hvtargid=pla-623685628207&psc=1

You are correct. You can't get rid of condensation but you can minimize it by keeping the tank as full as possible, especially when you don't use the tractor often.
If you live in a really humid climate, i would recommend using a biocide always.

 

[DustyRusty]

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10166665-9999.pdf

Bacteria and Fungi Growth Bacteria and fungi growth can occur in diesel fuel when there is water present, especially during warmer weather. The best prevention against bacteria and fungi growth is to use clean fuel that is free of water. There are diesel fuel biocides available which are designed to kill bacterial growth in the fuel system. However, the dead bacteria can still cause blockages throughout the fuel system. If bacterial growth is found in the fuel system, the proper method of removal is to flush the fuel system using the appropriate Service Manual procedures, replace the fuel filter element and refilling the tank with clean diesel fuel. If a customer desires to use a biocide after flushing the fuel system, it must not contain any metal-based additives, alcohol or other water emulsifiers.

 

[Pau7220]

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10166665-9999.pdf

This coming from the same company who brought you shoulder harnesses which live in the seat back instead of the b-pillar like the rest of the automotive industry. I learned my lesson back in 2002, and have been done with them ever since.

 

[The Evil Twin]

This is TRUE! But I’m curious just how you Do That.… because the atmosphere has humidity (water) and spores (yeast and fungus) which enters the fuel tank as fuel is consumed (creating ullage) and at night it all cools down and condensation runs down the tank walls and sinks to the bottom of the fuel taking the spores with it. In daytime that tank warms back up and air is expelled and then night-time cool-down occurs and the process reoccurs over and over and over.

The spores germinate and make “mats” of slime and bacterial sludge…which becomes acidic and corrodes metal and clogs filters and ruins pumps.

In the jets I used to fly we used Biobor-JF so that’s what I use in my diesel storage tanks also.
Stabil for gas and Stabil for diesel. Nothing else. Ever. (Down here in Hells Hallway …(Central Texas)…. we don’t get below 15-degrees-F so diesel don’t gel.)

https://www.amazon.com/Biobor-JF-Diesel-Fuel-Biocide/dp/B001HWT1XW/ref=asc_df_B001HWT1XW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312181776237&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12829310115904014090&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028270&hvtargid=pla-623685628207&psc=1

Well...for starters, use a demulsifier. It will separate the water from the fuel. Yeah, that sounds bad because that's where the microbes grow. But wait, it's not! Because that allows the water separator to do its job. The last thing anyone should do in a CRD is use a emulsifier.
What about the tank? Well, if stored full then it's really not an issue. There is very little "breathing" a tank will do. Sure, there is some, but if the fuel has been kept dry it is not an issue.
I hesitate to believe that any biocide treatment will not result in a resistance over time. Despite Biobor claims. If it has worked for you then stick with it. I stick to my demulsifier treatment because it has worked for me for decades. I leave a diesel sitting from August to May every year (for over 10 years) and have never had a problem with microbes. Not to say I never will....because Murphys Law prevails!
Speaking of Murphys Law, the winter of 2012 was pretty bad down there. I shipped my sister a few gallons of PS winter for their generator that year. They are outside of Dallas. Almost had to do the same in Feb 2022 but her husband found some in Rowlett at a truck shop.

 

[nbryan]

I've kept a "maintenance" concentration (1/128 +/-) of Sea Foam in my equipment fuels. In SE Manitoba temps swing season to season from -35C to +35C.
With Sea Foam I've never had an issue with stale fuel or any other kind of problems mentioned here with diesel. None. No gelling in -30C cold. Nothing grows in it.
And as for using SF in gas, with my old walk behind snow blower in storage for 2 years after getting the 'bota blower, my neighbor bought it and when he came to get it I "for fun" tried to start it, given it had at least half a tank of SF treated gas. Fired up like I'd just put fresh gas in its tank!
Sea Foam.

 

[RalphVa]

I use the right hand white bottle in RCW's post in the 60 gallon belly tank of the Isuzu. I use fuel from it for the B2601.

When I used gasoline, I used Stabil. Don't have anything but the 2 cars and pickup now that use gas. Wish they were diesel but cannot get a small car or pickup in diesel with stick shift.

 

[Showmedata]

FYI: I buy ethanol-free high-octane gasoline for all my small engines at my local airport FBO. They call it "mo-gas" and it's about a buck/gallon more than pump gas, but then I don't have to worry about ethanol effects.

 

[PaulR]

Diesel: White bottle as above.

Gas: Star tron and Stabil together! I had some bad ethanol disease attack all my Stihl Equipment years ago. Never again. I also just about always used the pre-mixed $$$ 2 stroke cans.

Winter storage gas Engines: I run them bone dry and spray a good shot of WD40 in the tank. Learned this on the BITOG forum from some old mechanic guy. Never had a problem re-starting things in Spring for all the many years I've been doing this.

 

[GeoHorn]

Well...for starters, use a demulsifier. It will separate the water from the fuel. Yeah, that sounds bad because that's where the microbes grow. But wait, it's not! Because that allows the water separator to do its job. The last thing anyone should do in a CRD is use a emulsifier.
What about the tank? Well, if stored full then it's really not an issue. There is very little "breathing" a tank will do. Sure, there is some, but if the fuel has been kept dry it is not an issue.
I hesitate to believe that any biocide treatment will not result in a resistance over time. Despite Biobor claims. If it has worked for you then stick with it. I stick to my demulsifier treatment because it has worked for me for decades. I leave a diesel sitting from August to May every year (for over 10 years) and have never had a problem with microbes. Not to say I never will....because Murphys Law prevails!
Speaking of Murphys Law, the winter of 2012 was pretty bad down there. I shipped my sister a few gallons of PS winter for their generator that year. They are outside of Dallas. Almost had to do the same in Feb 2022 but her husband found some in Rowlett at a truck shop.

I think you misunderstand the problem. First of all…it is the TANK that mostly creates condensation-water… the rest of the system is a closed system not open to atmosphere.

*Both gas or diesel can attract water into fuel tanks through natural condensation, loose fitting fuel caps, or groundwater seepage into underground tanks. Water can be extremely detrimental to your vehicle: degrading fuel quicker, initiating phase separation, as well as causing corrosion and possibly complete and total destruction of your engine.

A quick preventative measure to remove the water from your fuel tank is to use a fuel additive. However, additives that claim to separate the water out of your fuel are divided into two different processes: emulsifiers and demulsifiers. To put it simply, an emulsifier removes the water from the fuel tank by reducing the water into smaller particles to pass it through the vehicle’s injectors or carburetors. A demulsifier will remove water by separating the water out of the fuel, dropping it to the bottom of the fuel tank and out through the vehicle’s racors, separators, or filters.*

If water is in the system it WILL settle to the bottom of the tank and that is where biologicals grow and create problems.