Fuel filter change

[Big Orange]

I know this is a dumb question but!!
when I bought my used tractor all filters were just changed and I have since changed the oil and hydraulic filters and oil and fluids. I want to change my fuel filter that is in the glass bowl. I have never done this and have delayed doing it because of all I read about having to bleed injectors etc, etc,. is there a method to use so I don't have to worry about bleeding out the whole fuel system??
Any help would be great I always can count on advice on here.
I was getting ready to change my front axel seals and drive shaft seal when on here I found out about a front axel vent and bought one and not one leak since
Great site for info.

 

[ItBmine]

Fuel filter is easy. I did mine with just over half a tank of fuel in it. Just screwed it off, cleaned the bowl, put new filter in and screwed back on. Only fuel lost was what was in the bowl. Tractor started right back up. No bleeding required.

 

[Tx Jim]

On my M7040 when I change fuel filters leave bowl nut loose on water separator,crank engine then when bowl fills with fuel tighten nut. WALLA no injector bleeding required.

 

[Big Orange]

Fuel filter is easy. I did mine with just over half a tank of fuel in it. Just screwed it off, cleaned the bowl, put new filter in and screwed back on. Only fuel lost was what was in the bowl. Tractor started right back up. No bleeding required.

Dont I neet to shut off the fuel to the bowl? when I put the bowl back on do I need to fill it or bleed it?
Thanks

 

[5thhorseman]

Dont I neet to shut off the fuel to the bowl? when I put the bowl back on do I need to fill it or bleed it?
Thanks

There should be a shutoff lever right next to the bowl.

After changing the filter, fill up the bowl with diesel before putting it back on.

If you do have to bleed the injectors, it's no big deal. I have hardly any mechanical knowledge and did it successfully twice already.

 

[Lil Foot]

When I change the filter on my B7100, I shut off the fuel, take the bowl off & clean it, put in the new filter & o-ring, put the bowl back on but leave the retaining nut a little loose. Then I turn the fuel back on, let the bowl fill until a little leaks out, tighten the nut, no other bleeding necessary.

 

[olthumpa]

When I change the filter on my B7100, I shut off the fuel, take the bowl off & clean it, put in the new filter & o-ring, put the bowl back on but leave the retaining nut a little loose. Then I turn the fuel back on, let the bowl fill until a little leaks out, tighten the nut, no other bleeding necessary.

What he said.

 

[Big Orange]

Thanks all ,looks like time to give it a try, the fuel bowl looks real nasty right now!!

 

[CaveCreekRay]

L3800

Just did mine for the first time after calling the dealer trying to find a fuel shutoff that doesn't exist. The dealer uses ViseGrips (!!!) on the fuel line from the tank. I used the nifty HF hose clamper on the line. Then spin off the housing using a bucket to catch any dribbled fuel. Be really careful with the tiny rubber seal that sits in the bowl edge. I took mine out and placed it on a clean paper towel while changing the filter.

The filter is a booger to get out of the housing. It slides down on splines into the bowl and must be pulled out using a hooked tool. Mine was pretty firmly attached. It comes straight out of the bowl. If you look at your new filter, you will see the large splines on the side...

Once out, clean the bowl and then snap the new filter into the bowl. Replace the rubber seal making sure it is seated in the groove in the bowl. Screw the bowl on firmly and then release the fuel clamp which re-fills the bowl with fuel. Mine started right back up.

By the way... My filter was $14.30 at the dealer. Online the best price I could find was near $20 plus shipping.

 

[Big Orange]

L3800

Just did mine for the first time after calling the dealer trying to find a fuel shutoff that doesn't exist. The dealer uses ViseGrips (!!!) on the fuel line from the tank. I used the nifty HF hose clamper on the line. Then spin off the housing using a bucket to catch any dribbled fuel. Be really careful with the tiny rubber seal that sits in the bowl edge. I took mine out and placed it on a clean paper towel while changing the filter.

The filter is a booger to get out of the housing. It slides down on splines into the bowl and must be pulled out using a hooked tool. Mine was pretty firmly attached. It comes straight out of the bowl. If you look at your new filter, you will see the large splines on the side...

Once out, clean the bowl and then snap the new filter into the bowl. Replace the rubber seal making sure it is seated in the groove in the bowl. Screw the bowl on firmly and then release the fuel clamp which re-fills the bowl with fuel. Mine started right back up.

By the way... My filter was $14.30 at the dealer. Online the best price I could find was near $20 plus shipping.

Thanks for all the details on this, going to give it a whirl this week. given what I have done so far on this tractor this sounds pretty easy.

 

[mickeyd]

L3800

Just did mine for the first time after calling the dealer trying to find a fuel shutoff that doesn't exist. The dealer uses ViseGrips (!!!) on the fuel line from the tank. I used the nifty HF hose clamper on the line. Then spin off the housing using a bucket to catch any dribbled fuel. Be really careful with the tiny rubber seal that sits in the bowl edge. I took mine out and placed it on a clean paper towel while changing the filter.

The filter is a booger to get out of the housing. It slides down on splines into the bowl and must be pulled out using a hooked tool. Mine was pretty firmly attached. It comes straight out of the bowl. If you look at your new filter, you will see the large splines on the side...

Once out, clean the bowl and then snap the new filter into the bowl. Replace the rubber seal making sure it is seated in the groove in the bowl. Screw the bowl on firmly and then release the fuel clamp which re-fills the bowl with fuel. Mine started right back up.

By the way... My filter was $14.30 at the dealer. Online the best price I could find was near $20 plus shipping.

When my fuel filter cup was broken while bush hogging, I did the same as CaveCreekRay, except I did bleed the injector as the Work Shop Manual states, and it was very easy to bleed the injector and it started right up.

 

[ItBmine]

Maybe some models are different, but I don't have a shutoff, nor did I clamp the line. Nothing leaked out.
I also put it back on tight, empty and tractor started right back up.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Maybe some models are different.

Yes they are, I don't have to bleed anything on my L3450, if I run out of fuel or if I change the filter I just fill it and it burps all it's own air out, it's all done automatically.
But on my B7100 I have to manually do everything, and the burping of the filter canister only works half the time, the other half it traps some air and it's off to bleeding I go.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

The 3800 pees like mad without clamping the lower line that runs down from the tank!

I bought a set of the Harbor Freight hose clamps like Ed China uses on "Wheeler Dealer." Those things are really handy! Doesn't mangle your fuel line like hose-heads who use Vice Grips.

Man, I would hate to think about replacing the line out of the bottom of the fuel tank....

 

[PWM3rd]

This question is slightly "off-topic" but related to fuel filter change. I"ve looked in my owners manual and have not found the answer to my question. Is there (2) two fuel filters located on the L 3800? I was completing my 200 hour service, per manual, and someone had told me recently when discussing tractor servicing for regular maintenance that there may be a fuel filter, similar to one found on my zero turns, that needs changed. I was told it would be between the tank and the fuel filter located next to engine. If there is one there...I can see it or find it...My service manual mentions nothing about this and want to assume that there is only (1) fuel filter on my tractor. Thanks OTT members!