Has anyone else had the problem of the rear remote freezing up in cold weather. I can push the level back, but not forward. Depending on the weather it can take up to a half hour to thaw out on it's own after starting, or about 5 or 10 minutes with the hair dryer. It's getting to be a bit of a pain. Everything else works great. There's only about 50 hours since the full hydraulic fluid change. I bought this 2014 tractor in 2015 off a dealer, but managed to talk to the previous owner. He said it was his only complaint as well. I plan on discussing this with the dealer, but haven't had the time. If anyone has any observations or suggestions, I'd appreciate your input. Thanks Keith
Frozen remotes - MX5100
- Thread starter kjb
- Start date
Not out of the ordinary,depending on the temperature. If its operated by a cable then likely it has moisture in it. Replacement is the only option. Unless you are creative enough to work at lubricating it.
On many machines, warm up time varies.
Up here in the GWN it can be hours before things loosen up and move freely.
On many machines, warm up time varies.
Up here in the GWN it can be hours before things loosen up and move freely.
You have it in a shed/barn? If you're leaving it out in the open put a latex glove over the remote so moisture can't get on it.
Tooljunkie, Fortunately the MX5100 has the lever right on top of the remote and is activated by a direct metal bar, so no problem in that regard.
D2Cat, Unfortunately no shed for my tractor, but I built a very nice cab over it so no rain or snow, unless its very windy, gets at the valve. I might try the glove thing though to see if that helps. I feel like its frozen right in the valve though. Should be no water in there. Not too long a wait at -5, but at -15 its a bit frustrating. Today's third storm in a week is at -3 so it might not be too bad.
D2Cat, Unfortunately no shed for my tractor, but I built a very nice cab over it so no rain or snow, unless its very windy, gets at the valve. I might try the glove thing though to see if that helps. I feel like its frozen right in the valve though. Should be no water in there. Not too long a wait at -5, but at -15 its a bit frustrating. Today's third storm in a week is at -3 so it might not be too bad.
You must have power close by if you're using a heat gun. Get some heat tape used for plumbing, wrap it around the valve when it's parked.
I have a new B2650 with a cab and my rear remote freezes as well.
Takes about 10 mins to thaw. Going to try coating it in Fluidfilm to see if that helps.
Takes about 10 mins to thaw. Going to try coating it in Fluidfilm to see if that helps.
Go to a motorcycle shop or look on Amazon for a cable oiler. It's a small device that has a rubber center with 3 holes in it. The rubber is surrounded by an aluminum V shaped jacket, with a thumb screw. Loosen the thumb screw, put the larger larger hole over the cable jacket, with the end of the cable exiting through the smaller hole inline with it, then stick the straw of a WD-40 can in the third hole, tighten the thumb screw, spray the WD until it comes out the other end of the cable. Water displaced, cable lubricated, job done. Here's a link to one on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-0...398960&sr=8-1&keywords=motorcycle+cable+oiler
Good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-0...398960&sr=8-1&keywords=motorcycle+cable+oiler
Good luck!
Fluid fim works great against corrosion,has a wicking effect as well.not sure how well it sheds water. Maybe a product like "NEVER WET" would help in this situation.
If it freezing up internally within a mechanism and its related to cab being warm and melting snow is causing the problem then it would be best to re-direct either the moisture or cab heat to keep it from building up with moisture.
If it freezing up internally within a mechanism and its related to cab being warm and melting snow is causing the problem then it would be best to re-direct either the moisture or cab heat to keep it from building up with moisture.