frozen nuts on front tire 1979 Kubota L295DT 4WD

[Neil1777]

I'm trying to revive this ole tractor for one more series of tasks, I replaced injectors, fuel lines from fuel pump, got it to start and run. It has sat around for awhile since I had to be away for a year and three months for a cancer treatment and recovery. I'm hoping someone here with good experience will tell me the best way to get this flat tire of the studs so that I can repair the tire. It is heavily rusted as you can see in the photos. Please let me know the best stepwise protocol to get the nuts off of the bolts, without ruining the studs. Mahalo nui loa in advance.

 

[mikester]

Double post.

Acetylene torch. New studs.

I'd sell the tractor first or scrap it, not worth the time, acetylene or the new studs and nuts.

 

[DustyRusty]

I would use the acetylene torch to heat the studs, then wire brush the exposed threads to remove all rust. Then heat the nuts, one at a time, and let them cool. Spray both studs and the back side of the nuts where they meet the wheel with Deep Creep. Don't cheap out and use some other penetrating oil that doesn't work as well as the Deep Creep unless it is Kroil (more expensive). Use a tight-fitting socket on a breaker bar and turn the nut 1/8 - 1/4 turn off, and then back on. Keep doing this until the nut is fully removed. The reason for the off on off on sequence is to make sure that if there is anything in the threads that it will be cleared and not jam up the nut causing the stud to break. I have done this many times in the past successfully, especially with cars where the studs are no longer available.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Alternative to torch...

angle grinder with thin cutoff wheel.
cut off one of the nut sides
use cold chisel to 'spread' the rest ,
nut will pop off



Alternative to torch...
buy/make and induction heater. Looks like a coil of copper tubing ( which they are...) that heats any metal inside the lop when you press the power button. Takes a few seconds to heat up cherry red. Use proper sized socket and impact to unscrew the nut. This is the 'flame free' method done today. You 'might' save a stud or two...but....

You'll need new studs no matter how you get the nuts off.

 

[woodman55]

I would repair the wheel "in place". The valve is on the outside so you can easily inflate the tire. I always just use a sledge and a piece of angle iron to break the bead. You could also get a tire shop to come out and do it, which would be easier than trying to cut the nuts off the studs.

 

[Neil1777]

Thank you all for the possible techniques and methods described, I'll work on this and get back to the thread to let you know the final results and what I used. I hate to just junk it because of the tire, didn't think of the tire fix on the rim, nor was I aware of the induction coil to heat the nut/stud interface. Thank you for the responses, will get back to this post with what action I take, will do deep creep first, see if any of them give.

 

[fried1765]

Thank you all for the possible techniques and methods described, I'll work on this and get back to the thread to let you know the final results and what I used. I hate to just junk it because of the tire, didn't think of the tire fix on the rim, nor was I aware of the induction coil to heat the nut/stud interface. Thank you for the responses, will get back to this post with what action I take, will do deep creep first, see if any of them give.

If you should choose buying an induction coil heater, I think you will find that to be cost prohibitive.

 

[Neil1777]

If you should choose buying an induction coil heater, I think you will find that to be cost prohibitive.

I agree, I am running out of funds, plus I don't have a service garage

 

[DustyRusty]

An induction heater will be more costly than having a tire company come out and deal with it for you. I also disagree that you will need to replace the studs unless you break any off. Last week I removed 4 wheels from a car that sat in the woods for over 20 years and didn't break one stud. Once I got the wheels off I still had to deal with the brakes that were rusted to the drum and the torch put enough heat onto the shoes that they broke loose I was able to remove the drums and tow it out of the backyard. I dragged it out of the woods with my truck to get it into the yard because it was a lot easier than dragging tools into the woods.

Also be sure to check to make sure that none of the studs are left-handed, because you will definitely bread the studs if you are tightening them instead of loosening them.

 

[Mr. K]

This issue looks to have been posted twice. Let's redirect everyone over to this thread instead which seems to have more replies. Locking this one.

frozen rust frozen nuts on front tire studs

I'm trying to revive this ole tractor for one more series of tasks, I replaced injectors, fuel lines from fuel pump, got it to start and run. It has sat around for awhile since I had to be away for a year and three months for a cancer treatment and recovery. I'm hoping someone here with good...

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