Front wheel Bolts Seized and stripped question??

[epdroppa]

I have a BX 2370. The front wheel bolts were coming loose. I recently decided to apply some thread lock to stop them from coming loose.
Before I got the chance, when removing the bolts Three were seized and appear stripped. I was able to get two of the stripped bolts out, but one bolt snapped in wheel hub.

First question:
1. Why did this happen?

2. Can I run a tap through threads to recover them? (Have tap and new bolts ordered.)

3. Should I use thread lock to keep bolts tight?


Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[mpham]

The wheel studs on these tractors need to be checked and torqued every couple of weeks till they no longer move. Depends on the damage if you will be able to rethread and use the holes again. I wouldn't use thread locker, it will just make things worse if you have to remove the wheel again.

 

[200mph]

If the hub threads are suspect, I'd suggest fixing with Heli-coil or something similar.

This isn't the size needed, but gives an idea what they are if not familiar.
https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK

 

[nzzshl]

You didn't mention as to whether a torque wrench was utilized when the bolts were tightened. It is recommended procedure. Make sure the fastener seats on the wheels are cleaned and dry. As to the thread lock compound, what did you use? I would recommend nothing red.........stay with the blue type as it never really hardens, per se. It is designed for parts to be removed without incident as to opposed to the more aggressive red material. Resizing the thread bores has been addressed by others for consideration. Chuck

 

[epdroppa]

At first...I used a torque wrench and torqued to recommended torque in service manual.
Bolts came loose... Went a little tighter to keep from coming loose....Still came loose.

I have not used any thread lock yet. I was thinking of using blue thread lock, I want to be able to get them off at some point.

It looks like the flange on the rim "Mushroomed out"....Not sure if this was caused by over tightening or by coming loose....I will be using a different wheel /tire when replaced.

Trying to find Heli-Coil....Just in case its needed.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Im not sure if heli-coils will be the answer to your problem. The thread pitch wont support the loads applied to the hub. There are nut-serts that require a much larger hole drilled and tapped then red loctite to lock them in. The wallered out wheels can be some of the issue.
It will not be an easy repair,it may be worth considering wheel studs from an agricultural hub and nuts to suit your wheels.
Ag wheel nut tapers differ from automotive, be aware of that if you go for a retrofit of sorts.
Have done similar repairs,eliminating wheel bolts and driving in studs from backside of hub.

 

[Daren Todd]

I agree with TJ. Helicoil isn't really the answer for wheel studs. The machine shops I deal with use products like the ones in this link.

http://catalog.arconicfastenersandrings.com/category/keenserts-reg-inserts

They are a solid piece installed with locking tabs. Gives a stronger more permanent repair.

Heli-coils are good for light duty applications. But will pull out in more robust applications

 

[toasty]

any pics????

 

[epdroppa]

I can post Pixs tomorrow.

I was able to "run a Tap" through three of the holes and use new bolts.
Not sure I trust this, due to damaged threads.

I still have one "Bolt" snapped off and seized in hole. Tried drilling and using easy out with no luck.

I have been trying this with Axle shaft on tractor. I am thinking of removing shaft and using my bench drill to drill the bolt out and re-tap.

I may have to fork over the $$$ for a new shaft.

 

[D2Cat]

Is there any material on the broken bolt sticking out beyond the flange face?

Maybe you can get a chisel or punch on the edge and tap it in the counter-clockwise direction to start moving the bolt. I'd soak it real good with something like PB Blaster first, several times.

Sometimes using a left handed drill bit will help. If it catches on the metal, it's turning the bolt in the direction to get it out.

 

[William1]

No Helicoil on wheels. Time Serts 'might' work if the flange is deep enough to fully support it.
Best fixes is to either replace the hub or weld up the hub and have new threads cut. For the snapped off bolt, a machine shop with a EDM will remove it clean.
You also need to find out why the bolts kept coming loose. Either wrong rim or bolt mismatch. I've never had one loosen in my entire life. BTW, making it tighter is the wrong approach, it over stresses a part and can cause premature failure. A bolt that fails to tighten (or stay tight), first I'd simply use new bolts. In critical applications, I routinely always use new fasteners, saving the old ones for 'junk jobs'.

 

[epdroppa]

No Helicoil on wheels. Time Serts 'might' work if the flange is deep enough to fully support it.
Best fixes is to either replace the hub or weld up the hub and have new threads cut. For the snapped off bolt, a machine shop with a EDM will remove it clean.
You also need to find out why the bolts kept coming loose. Either wrong rim or bolt mismatch. I've never had one loosen in my entire life. BTW, making it tighter is the wrong approach, it over stresses a part and can cause premature failure. A bolt that fails to tighten (or stay tight), first I'd simply use new bolts. In critical applications, I routinely always use new fasteners, saving the old ones for 'junk jobs'.

Found a possible solution ....Until I can get a new axle shaft / Hub. Seems like these inserts will work better than HeliCoils and less $$ than replacing Shaft. we'll see how they work.

https://www.ezlok.com/cds_catalog_product.php?id=329_918

 

[William1]

Found a possible solution ....Until I can get a new axle shaft / Hub. Seems like these inserts will work better than HeliCoils and less $$ than replacing Shaft. we'll see how they work.

https://www.ezlok.com/cds_catalog_product.php?id=329_918

Very similar to a Time-Sert. Getting the correct thread is another matter though. A Time-Sert has a shoulder on top. A special included dri bit bores the hole for tapping and it cut the shoulder. Then installed with the tool, the flange on the insert is flush and provides additional thread support.