Front chains on a BX?

[Blue2Orange]

Assuming the Euro diamond or H pattern chains have improved side grip and steering? If so, wonder regarding steering on front wheel mounted chains if the spiked/studded 2 link ladders are more or less effective than those.

Even with the ballast of the FEL and bucket, the R4s front tire traction is less than expected or what I was use to in the larger NH. NH had R1s about size of the BX rears. Not sure if tires and size are the reason. Guessing it is just the significantly heavier loader and heavy duty bucket I had.

H pattern for the BX found on line are a bit on the expensive side. No luck still finding a Euro diamond sized for the 18 x8.5-10 fronts. The studs on the 2 link ladder chains look to have similar side clearance as the std 2 link ladders. Thinking the only clearance issue to be concerned with on the fronts are inward towards the steering arm knuckle or whatever is the correct description. Considering front chains to improve steering control and assisting straight line traction.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

ANY kind of chains up front will help ! Wished I'd had them today moving a cement mixer. It was 'ok' going to the drop off location, NOT 'fun' coming back up a 10% grade with zero weight in the bucket. R4s ain't 'snow tires' !

 

[MattB3200]

I have a B3200 and a steep driveway in Minnesota. A buddy gave me a set of chains that fit on the wheels, but they rubbed on the steering arms on the inside of the tires.

 

[mcfarmall]

Might try grooving the tires.

 

[Bee-Positive]

Pushing heavy snow or plowing on slick surfaces chains are a must for my BX. I've plowed and used the bucket a couple of time so far this year without chains but the snow has been fairly fluffy. The time will come when they have to go on.

I use the ladder 2-link heavy duty without v-bars for my turf tires, $145 at tirechains.com.

 

[Bee-Positive]

P.S. - no problems with clearance in 3 years, but again, they are turf tires.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

I run Euro so I don't slide sideways on ice, no H-bars (they're like studs) needed, even for plowing. Euro without H-bars run pretty smooth but will chip concrete if run at more than a crawl, asphalt is likely worse, H-bars would run ruin the surface and should only be run on gravel or dirt as others have also said.

I couldn't find properly sized chains for the front so I went larger and might use a bolt cutter to down size them.

You can find links to my setup in my Profile -> About

 

[SDT]

ANY kind of chains up front will help ! Wished I'd had them today moving a cement mixer. It was 'ok' going to the drop off location, NOT 'fun' coming back up a 10% grade with zero weight in the bucket. R4s ain't 'snow tires' !

No they aren't. Neither are R1s (or any tractor tires for that matter.)

 

[SDT]

Pushing heavy snow or plowing on slick surfaces chains are a must for my BX. I've plowed and used the bucket a couple of time so far this year without chains but the snow has been fairly fluffy. The time will come when they have to go on.

I use the ladder 2-link heavy duty without v-bars for my turf tires, $145 at tirechains.com.

Spent about 3 hours removing about one foot of snow on top of about one inch of freezing slush yesterday with my B1750 and new 5' rear blade.

1750 has factory matched turf tires on front and Z-bar tires on rear so started without chains but quickly determined that it would take too long so took it back inside and mounted my F and R 2-link twist ladders.

The twist link ladders will not damage concrete if one uses a modicum of common sense.

 

[Blue2Orange]

Rubbing on the steering arm is the only clearance issue concern. I've seen images of BX with front chains. Guessing sizing is important. The same model of chains I have, but sized for the front 18 x 8.5-10 at tire chain dot com note in their description 23 x 7.5-12. Wonder if typo or if they will fit the 18x8.5-10 R4s without being a clearance issue. Senting an email for clarification.

Running 2 link ladder chains on the rears. Steering pushing snow downhill over the hard packed layer of snow covering the gravel driveway is an issue. Pushing uphill is a no go on the steeper sections. Back blade is now off and snowblower is on.

In the past with the NH if snow depth allowed I just take a run heading downhill pushing a pile creating couple large snowbanks. Then snow blow those piles widening the driveway to max width. Last snowfall was light and ~6". BX with chains on rear only. To make the curves need to stop, back up a bit while realigning the tractor. Do able for now. Hitting the steeper section going uphill snow blowing it seems like the fronts are providing minimal aid. Lifting the blower above float helps if things get slippery. Might not even be able to get up the steeps without the chains. Nice smooth hard pack surface from our first permanent snowfall. Less of pita just to snowblow and not use the FEL bucket as a snow pusher. Two round trips and job is done for the driveway.

 

[ajschnitzelbank]

My b2301 with r4s was useless without chains. I started with back chains for traction, then quickly added fronts for steering. I couldn’t really make the split brakes work well enough for me. Was great with four chains!

 

[Blue2Orange]

Another day removing snow. December is becoming like the "good old days". That is, pre '98 when we use to get consistent snowfall from mid November until ????

Still getting use to running a sub ton (bare weight) tractor with R4s. Not liking the poor front tire traction. Steering or otherwise. Today's ~5"/12cm of powder snow is the very sharp, cold (-15C/5F) snow that usually is not a traction issue. It was. Being a dolt. Once again tried to make the first run downhill just pushing snow with the FEL bucket. Once again. Stop, backup a bit, realign direction of travel or do as I did once. Keep going straight and dropping a wheel off the curve section. Shallow ditches. No big deal. Truck makes it up the driveway and around the curves in 2 wheel drive. Good quality ice and snow tires v. whatever compound and R4. Good thing for the rear chains. Hope was the R4s would pack in snow v. the old R1s. Guessing now R1 with the old NH's mass just dug in better resulting in better traction even though no snow would pack in to get snow to snow bite like I'm guessing turfs do.

Dealer was right again. He suggest the R14s. Traction of the turfs in snow and toughness of the R4. IIRC, a bit more than a $240 upgrade over the R4s. Maybe the next set. At this moment. For now front chains. Leaning more to the 2-link ladders with V spikes. Extra $20 is minimal.

 

[Shawn T. W]

A lot of people have been very pleasantly surprised with "grooving" there R4's ... Some forums have a "loaner" tire groover that gets passed around, not sure if I recall that here or not ...

Does tire grooving really work?

I have 4 tenths of a mile driveway to plow with hills and turns. Gave up on the plow truck because I always ran out of room due to piles and had to get the tractor out to move piles so I could continue to plow. Thought this is stupid and sold plow truck and tractor and purchased a low hour...

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