Front 3-point hitch for loader quick attach

[troverman]

Hi,

Does anyone make something that will do the following?

I want to use a 3-point implement (6-foot grader blade) on the front of my tractor and connect it using the quick attach my tractor has.

Does someone make an adapter that will allow me to mount and implement like this to the front?

Would like to use it for plow snow.

Thanks in advance

 

[tthorkil]

Skidsteer 3 Point Attachment Adapter Skid Steer hitch front loader
https://www.palletforks.com/skid-steers/conversion-adapters-and-mount-plates/3-point-adapter/skidsteer-3-point-attachment-adapter-skid-steer-hitch-front-loader-129-lb-hd/169200.html?lang=default

From Universal Quick Tach To 3-Point Quick Hitch Adapter
https://www.palletforks.com/tractors/conversion-adapters-and-mount-plates/3-point-adapters/from-universal-quick-tach-to-3-point-quick-hitch-adapter/191126.html?lang=default

 

[troverman]

Skidsteer 3 Point Attachment Adapter Skid Steer hitch front loader
https://www.palletforks.com/skid-steers/conversion-adapters-and-mount-plates/3-point-adapter/skidsteer-3-point-attachment-adapter-skid-steer-hitch-front-loader-129-lb-hd/169200.html?lang=default

From Universal Quick Tach To 3-Point Quick Hitch Adapter
https://www.palletforks.com/tractors/conversion-adapters-and-mount-plates/3-point-adapters/from-universal-quick-tach-to-3-point-quick-hitch-adapter/191126.html?lang=default

Thanks a lot. I'm an idiot - I bought a 3-point hitch quick hitch from Titan and found it wouldn't work with my flail mower, so I've never used it. I think I could just by the $98 quick-attach weld plate, and weld the quick hitch to it...problem solved. However, I wouldn't have thought of it without clicking your links...so thanks!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

DON'T DO IT!

A three point rear blade does not have a trip edge and any shock load will go right into it and the loader and the tractor, all not good.

You can do some serious damage real quick!

I did it on my bobcat, I folded the blade right under and ripped the pivot point in two, and just to note my blade is about 4 times stronger than any common bought blade, the pivot point is 4" 3/8 thick wall pipe and yes it tore it right in two.

 

[troverman]

I did give that some thought, NIW. My feeling was to use the loader curl function to have the blade with the top edge tipped forward a little, and leave the loader on float position, and go fairly slow.

Frankly, there's no trip when plowing (or grading) with the blade behind you either, even though the 3-point arms are presumably stronger than the loader arms.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I did give that some thought, NIW. My feeling was to use the loader curl function to have the blade with the top edge tipped forward a little, and leave the loader on float position, and go fairly slow.

Frankly, there's no trip when plowing (or grading) with the blade behind you either, even though the 3-point arms are presumably stronger than the loader arms.

The three point pops up when it hits something too solid.

Do what you may, but I warned you!

 

[chim]

I've been thinking of modifying a Harbor Freight QH (that I bought years ago and never used) to mount on the front for cleaning out brush and junk in a fence row. The plan was to use it for mounting the landscape rake there for extra reach and sort of comb the junk out.

For plowing snow I already have a truck plow on a QA, so it won't tempt me to use a rear blade on the QA if I ever do build it. The concern would be the weight of the loader arms not allowing the blade to jump a NIW mentioned.

 

[troverman]

The three point pops up when it hits something too solid.

Do what you may, but I warned you!

With the blade tilted forward and the loader valve in float, wouldn't the blade also pop up if it hit something? That was my logic.

 

[BigG]

We have two separate questions here. First the easy one, yes you could attach the rake to the front end loader to pull with lighter stuff out of the fence row. It would be like back dragging with the the bucket. The tines of the rake are more forgiving then a blade that is set rigidly.

Second question is a little more thought provoking. Do you want to push or pull? I do not think that pushing like a dozer is a good idea. The loader arms are not designed to take the shock load if you were to strike something. Or worse you could easily be injured by the quick stop. If you used the blade to pull the snow backwards it might work but there is no give in the system if you were to hook the blade onto an object.

Sometimes my mind works in strange ways.... bolt an edge, one of those plastic ones, to the teeth of the york rake. Use several short pieces. I would not guarantee it. I still would not push with it.

 

[GRTkub]

Not sure if this is what you mean, but I took a blank SSQA plate and welded a HF QH to it. I use the QH and a 3 PT trailer drawbar to move my trailers around. I put this together to allow me to move my, rotary cutter, landscape rake, back blade and box blade with the FEL. It's quick and easy to move these around as needed without having to use the rear 3 PT. I don't even have to get off the tractor to lock the hitch arms. I just lift, move, drop and go. Also, I can lift these implements up to store them off the ground with the loader. I put the rake on just see how it would work on the loader arms and I found the only useful thing for me would be to drive forward into a tight area and pull desbris back out. Other than that It's easier to use on the back of the tractor.

 

[troverman]

That's exactly what I'm envisioning, GRTkub. Just a blade on the front instead of a rake.

I understand the concerns of shocking or bending the loader arms, but I think in float mode and with the blade tipped forward, anything it strikes is going force the blade upwards, which it will be able to do with the system on float.

The Subaru dealership uses a Grand L 60 series just like mine for plowing their property. They have an 8.5' Boss snowplow mounted to a QA plate. Yes, the plow has a trip edge but is vastly heavier than the thin back blade I am currently using. They have been using this machine for a few years now without issue, and they don't plow slowly. Seems to hold up fine.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I've been thinking of modifying a Harbor Freight QH (that I bought years ago and never used) to mount on the front for cleaning out brush and junk in a fence row. The plan was to use it for mounting the landscape rake there for extra reach and sort of comb the junk out.

For plowing snow I already have a truck plow on a QA, so it won't tempt me to use a rear blade on the QA if I ever do build it. The concern would be the weight of the loader arms not allowing the blade to jump a NIW mentioned.

I did exactly what you want to do chim, and yes it works perfectly, I used a SSQA plate and welded the Adapter strait to it, I could have even just welded tabs onto the plate and pinned the adapter too it.

I used / use it with both my tractor and my Bobcat with the landscape rake (perfect) regular blade (just on Bobcat) not good too harsh and sends too much force though it to the loader, and land plane (awesome) and I use it for my trailer mover.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That's exactly what I'm envisioning, GRTkub. Just a blade on the front instead of a rake.

I understand the concerns of shocking or bending the loader arms, but I think in float mode and with the blade tipped forward, anything it strikes is going force the blade upwards, which it will be able to do with the system on float.

The Subaru dealership uses a Grand L 60 series just like mine for plowing their property. They have an 8.5' Boss snowplow mounted to a QA plate. Yes, the plow has a trip edge but is vastly heavier than the thin back blade I am currently using. They have been using this machine for a few years now without issue, and they don't plow slowly. Seems to hold up fine.

You really just need to have some trust in me when I say don't do it, I've run it so I know.
The loader will not pop up when you hit something, in fact about the only thing that will happen is you'll bend / break the cylinders and fold the blade under, not good!

The boss plow trips and that's the difference, and no it doesn't really matter if you use it slow or fast.

I also broke the pin and bar that holds the angle twice before i broke the pivot and gave up on the idea of using it on the bobcat for good.

And before you ask but what's the difference between that and using a bucket, it hits things and doesn't break, leverage, massive increase in the leverage point!
Like the difference between using a 6" ratchet or a 4 foot long breaker bar!

Oh and that leverage will take by Bobcat and throw it sideways in a split second, and it weighs 4 times what a tractor weights.
Imagine that when your on a tractor, one second you're headed north and the next second you're headed west with your body hanging off the seat and on the fender or worse yet, you're on the ground trying not to get run over!
If you hit something just right (or in this case just wrong) and you mash down on the hst pedal from the force of the hit, it's going to get super ugly really quick!

I was wearing a seatbelt and the shock to my side was felt for months after the event!
I clipped a stump with just the very corner of the blade.

If you're going to be stubborn and do it anyway, when it breaks something or just causes you to soil yourself, please have the fortitude to come back on and tell us about it!

 

[troverman]

You really just need to have some trust in me when I say don't do it, I've run it so I know.
The loader will not pop up when you hit something, in fact about the only thing that will happen is you'll bend / break the cylinders and fold the blade under, not good!

The boss plow trips and that's the difference, and no it doesn't really matter if you use it slow or fast.

I also broke the pin and bar that holds the angle twice before i broke the pivot and gave up on the idea of using it on the bobcat for good.

And before you ask but what's the difference between that and using a bucket, it hits things and doesn't break, leverage, massive increase in the leverage point!
Like the difference between using a 6" ratchet or a 4 foot long breaker bar!

Oh and that leverage will take by Bobcat and throw it sideways in a split second, and it weighs 4 times what a tractor weights.
Imagine that when your on a tractor, one second you're headed north and the next second you're headed west with your body hanging off the seat and on the fender or worse yet, you're on the ground trying not to get run over!
If you hit something just right (or in this case just wrong) and you mash down on the hst pedal from the force of the hit, it's going to get super ugly really quick!

I was wearing a seatbelt and the shock to my side was felt for months after the event!
I clipped a stump with just the very corner of the blade.

If you're going to be stubborn and do it anyway, when it breaks something or just causes you to soil yourself, please have the fortitude to come back on and tell us about it!

I'm going to take your advice and not do it. Instead, I'll look to purchase a snow plow with a trip and a QA plate. I'm not looking to damage my equipment, even with Kubota insurance on it...

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'm going to take your advice and not do it. Instead, I'll look to purchase a snow plow with a trip and a QA plate. I'm not looking to damage my equipment, even with Kubota insurance on it...

Awesome to hear!

I really like when members can take others screw ups ( in this case mine) and use them!

Note: I edited my post in the middle of you posting so go reread it for more info...

 

[chim]

Welcome aboard. Have a look at these:

Cheap and basic SSQA snow plow?

I'd like to put a 6 or 7 foot blade on the front of my Kubota using the SSQA function. Manual angle with three positions would be fine: left, right, and center. Some kind of a trip spring, and the SSQA plate. I've found a few with hydraulics and they are expensive. Alternately, I have an 8.5'...

www.orangetractortalks.com