Friggin' Cold - Synthetic Here We Go!

[RCW]

First winter with the diesel.

Been as low as -20 this season. Ran tractor at -8 couple weeks to run snowblower.

15-40 is just not cutting it for me. I do run it for 15 minutes before working it, but first few minutes make it work.

Synthetic we go!

Thinkin' 5-40 before next winter.

 

[85Hokie]

First winter with the diesel.

Been as low as -20 this season. Ran tractor at -8 couple weeks to run snowblower.

15-40 is just not cutting it for me. I do run it for 15 minutes before working it, but first few minutes make it work.

Synthetic we go!

Thinkin' 5-40 before next winter.

For the cost over time of what you pay for synthetic oil, it is far cheaper to have something run with the best "money" can buy and be satisfied rather than good oil and not be happy.

I have run Mobil 1 in every car that doesnt burn oil for the last 25+ years. Never a problem, but I change the oil about once a year or about 15,000 miles. Dont let people fool you into thinking it is "slicker" it is not, the oil simply will hold up better in poor conditions that regular oil. Look up the facts about oils, no question that synthetics are "better", and in you case - you are looking for a more viscous oil, rather one that pours easily in cold weather.
There are many myths about oils that drive me crazy.....for example, an OLD tractor used 30w oil.....and people still place it in there......back then that is all that there was, todays oils are soooooo much better, no need to go backwards in technology!

 

[SteveF]

Any thought to a block heater?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

15-40 is just not cutting it for me.

Are you having oil pressure drops or fluctuations?
Or is it just that the motor is hard to start and doggy till it gets warmed up?

Hard to start, get a block heater.
Doggy after initial warm up, I'm betting it's more of a cold hydraulic fluid drag problem that it is a motor oil problem!

Pull your dip stick out and feel how hot the oil is at 15min, Be warned you might burn your fingers!

 

[RCW]

I should have noted its stored in an attached garage. Its not warm out there, but certainly well above outside temps. I'm guessing it does get much below 20.

Its really the 15w and the cold start that bothers me. Tractor starts/runs fine. I just don't like it. Of course, 15w-40 is the norm for conventional diesel oil (except the Harley is 20w-50 diesel certifed oil).

Steve - I have thought about a block heater. Just haven't gone there, yet, anyway. Again, it not all the cold where its stored.

I have been using synthetics for a few years now - started with Stihl synthetic for the 046 saw and 2 brushcutters.

Chevy vehicles are "dexos" certifed oils, which I gather are synthetic blends - I go with full synthetics and 5 or 6,000 mile changes. While oils are better, I still don't trust the filters too long

 

[rayc]

rcw, i switched from dino oil to synthetic last fall. What a difference in starting this winter compared to last. I have a block heater also but the synthetic oil makes it so much easier on the machine.

 

[skeets]

I have been running 15w50 M1 in the Harley for years mulit weight oil is a no brainer

 

[turck]

I keep mine in a unheated garage but I am really glad the salesman talked me into a block heater. -37 f here this morning. The kubota can stand down today, oh and me too.

 

[RCW]

I have been running 15w50 M1 in the Harley for years mulit weight oil is a no brainer

Yeah Skeets, multi weight is a no-brainer. But I have an issue with a heavier 15 when its cold. I prefer it lighter, like a 5 or 10 cold weight.

My issue is that most conventional diesel oils are 15-40 or 20-50 or so for the cold/hot weights. A 15 or 20 for our Harley's are no issue - I've only ridden in the snow a couple times.

When its COLD, I'd just like to start with an oil lighter than 15 - only way to do that, that I can see, is synthetic. If I could get a conventional, lighter cold-weight diesel oil, I'd probably stay with Rotella conventional.

Only change is that I'll go with a Rotella synthetic - I think they have a 10-40, and maybe a 5-40.

 

[Bulldog]

RCW, I think you'll be very pleased with the performance of a quality synthetic oil in your tractor. I have have used synthetic lubricants for 30 yrs or somewhere in that area anyway. Wolfman (IMO) brought up a valid point about hyd fluid drag. In cold weather it takes so long for the hydraulics to get up to operating temp.

Personally I use 5w30 100% synthetic in my engines and use 10w30 full synthetic tractor trans/hyd fluid in the tranny's. The pour point on the engine oil is -56 F and -59 F on the trans fluid. It sure works nice and smooth during cold weather.

 

[jay87t]

Bulldog what make of oil do you use for the 5w30 sythetic? I want to switch but not sure what sythetic to get for my little B6000

 

[Lil Foot]

Bulldog what make of oil do you use for the 5w30 sythetic?

AMSOIL, protect your investment.

At least, that would be my guess….

 

[Bulldog]

Bulldog what make of oil do you use for the 5w30 sythetic? I want to switch but not sure what sythetic to get for my little B6000

Amsoil, IMHO there's nothing else out there even close. If I can help you out or if you have questions send them my way.

 

[Bulldog]

Thanks Lil Foot, you beat me to it.

 

[Lil Foot]

No problem Bulldog, been thinkin' about goin' that way myself...

 

[bandaidmd]

No prob with the engine oil but trying to get the hydro fluid thru the restrictor in my t'n't is really a PITA and were only in the high single digits here.

 

[Bulldog]

No prob with the engine oil but trying to get the hydro fluid thru the restrictor in my t'n't is really a PITA and were only in the high single digits here.

I'm not trying to start a oil war and some may think I'm beating a dead horse but I just came in from putting out hay. My tractor is in a shed with the end walls covered but basicly the wind blows straight thru. Last time I looked last night it was 12 F with about 12 - 14 mph wind. Another words it's pretty cold.
My point to this, my hydraulics work just like they do on a summer day. The only difference I can tell is the 3pt drops just a little slower. I have the knob set the same as it is during the summer though.

If you are having issues with your hydraulics (sluggish / stiff) and truely want to do something about it try Amsoil syn tractor trans / hyd fluid. I have had it in the hyd system on my L3000 since about 25 hrs (14 yrs). I'm not trying to sell you anything. I'm not blowing smoke up your ass. I'm only trying to pass along information on a product I use and that really does work. And yes, Amsoil will make a difference even over SUDT or SUDT2.

 

[RCW]

What Bulldog said -

As he pointed out, there really is a difference in lubricants, both conventional and synthetic, IMO.

As we've all said here - this stuff is cheap compared to repairs.

Get the good stuff, but you still need to service your equipment! That part we tend to forget.

What bothers me with synthetics is the concept that engine oil, for example, can run ALOT of miles/hours. Stuff is damn near indestructible.

While that may be true, you better have a damn good FILTER for the extended service.

I'm not convinced filters have kept up. (I use Kubota filters - don't know who makes them, but they seem pretty good)

To compensate, I run full synthetic in car or truck 6,000 miles. In theory, oil is good, but I'm not so sure about the filter.

I dumped all the fluids in my new tractor at 38 hours - engine, HST, front axle - everything. Its a leftover BX2360 model, so it probably sat on a lot for a while. Who knows how much water it might have accumulated over time.

My 2013 Chevy Silverado came with free "scheduled" maintenance for 2 years - at 7,500 mile increments. Never will I run a fresh engine for that long on its first oil - stupidity in my book. I wouldn't go that long, period.

Use good stuff, fluid and filter, and change them often. Better stated, more often than recommended.

I think the attraction/marketing tool is longer life - and I think they've gone too far. Again, my opinion.

I feel better now............

 

[Bulldog]

RCW, you bring up good points about the filters. Most of them are not ready for extended drain service. When I first started using Amsoil if you used their brand filters they were rated (with warranty) for 12,500 miles, change filter, top off and go another 12,500 miles or one year which ever came first. If you used factory filters the were rated to chage every 3000, top off and go.

Now Amsoil has teamed with Donaldson and they produce a premium line of filters just for Amsoil. If you want even higher protection Amsoil offers a line of addon by-pass filter kits. Some are made to fit (Dodge, Chevy, Ford diesels) and certain others while universal kits are available as well. The by-pass systems are made to grab just a portion of the oil flow, filter it down to 1/10 micron and return it to the system. I forget the exact numbers but after a hour or so of running all the oil is filtered down that low and then it stays filtered until the next change.

I have a friend with a CH Mack truck. He has been running it for 16 or so years and averages 80K per year. It has 2 factory filters, a twin Amsoil by-pass system and a factory installed centrifuge. He changes oil once per year (80K) and has done so since he bought the truck. That's almost 1.3 million local miles and has never had to build the engine.
To me that's the best oil and filtration working together for a common goal, saving us money.

 

[kc8fbl]

I'm using Rotella T-6 synthetic oil in the Kubota. The startups are great! It turns over really well even though the temps have been anywhere between high teens to single digit highs.

I use mobil-1 5w-30 synthetic in my car and I change it every 5k miles. I use a purolator filter.