Called my local dealer to find out where to get the amount of Freon for the AC system for my L4330. They told me the would sell me a service manual for over $100. Can anyone help me out with the amount of Freon?
Freon amount L4330 HST
- Thread starter Mr. Novice
- Start date
Fantastic! Thanks. Now i am told i need to know how much oil should be put in for a compressor replacement. Any help?
ehenry
Active member
Equipment
BX22, FEL, BH, 40" pto tiller, 42" Bushog Squealer, pto hole digger, B7300 w/60"
Every Compressor I've replaced came with a tube of oil.
What prompted you to replace your compressor? If it it died from 'Black Death' just replacing the compressor will only be a band-aid. That being your filter came apart and circulated through the system all components should be replaced otherwise you'll be doing it all over again next summer.
What prompted you to replace your compressor? If it it died from 'Black Death' just replacing the compressor will only be a band-aid. That being your filter came apart and circulated through the system all components should be replaced otherwise you'll be doing it all over again next summer.
Total capacity is 3.1 to 4.3 cubic inch (50 to 70 cc) and these are the capacities of the other components.
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The L4330 i purchased in 2004, and i am just getting ready to turn over the 900 hour mark. Not heavy usage, but it is an 04. Early summer it would blow cold for a couple minutes, then Luke warm. Wasn’t to worried and started operating with the (L) door open. Tool that i am, i got to close to a fence and exploded the door. Ever heard one go boom? Anyway, the compressor started squalling quite loud every time i turned on the AC. Didn’t want to seize it up, so the rest of summer was without AC. So, swift guy that it am, i firgured it better be replaced. My local dealer wanted $1600 for a compressor, one downstate wanted $1200. Found an aftermarket on Amazon for $320, and a friend said he can replace it for me. So here i am.
What happened to your AC system? Did the compressor seize? s mentioned above, "Black Death" is when the system is deteriorating and still running until it quits. Black Death refers to the black-gray residue left in the lines and whole system and it is fine metal. EVERYTHING, needs to be flushed clean, The lines, evaporator in the cab and the condenser in front of the radiator. The receiver/drier needs to be replaced and proper amount of oil returned into the system BEFORE you evacuate the system then charge. If you just replace the compressor with the rest of the system contaminated, you will soon experience the same issue quickly.
The L4330 i purchased in 2004, and i am just getting ready to turn over the 900 hour mark. Not heavy usage, but it is an 04. Early summer it would blow cold for a couple minutes, then Luke warm. Wasn’t to worried and started operating with the (L) door open. Tool that i am, i got to close to a fence and exploded the door. Ever heard one go boom? Anyway, the compressor started squalling quite loud every time i turned on the AC. Didn’t want to seize it up, so the rest of summer was without AC. So, swift guy that it am, i firgured it better be replaced. My local dealer wanted $1600 for a compressor, one downstate wanted $1200. Found an aftermarket on Amazon for $320, and a friend said he can replace it for me. So here i am.
There is a very good chance that all your air conditioning needs the air gap adjusted on the compressor clutch!!
I have replaced several this past summer (Grand L 30 series cabin). The kubota part number superceded. I don't know what they changed. Maybe the color? Maybe the compressor is much more robust...dunno. It is a scroll type compressor.
The ones I replaced, only one of the consumers asked for the old compressor back. The others I actually disassembled in free time at home studying their failures. One had a burned clutch, could have been replaced-customer wanted the new compressor. The others, the compressor itself was garbage, all exhibited the same complaint (squealing after running briefly). When the system is opened up, you'll also want to replace the dryer assembly which is the cylindrical part near the radiator. When you replace that, do it last--right before vacuuming the system, then pressure testing with nitrogen, then a final vacuum to at least 500 microns. If the compressor itself (not the clutch) has failed, you will have a high likelihood to have all sorts of junk in the rest of the system---lines, hoses, evaporator, and condenser. They'll ALL have to be replaced in order for the system to work properly and be expected to last.
And therein lies one reason a/c repairs are expensive. The other reasons are government regulation, and the tooling required. It will not be long until a license will be required to purchase HFC-R134A refrigerant. From a technician standpoint, we've got to stand behind our work or risk having to do it twice (the second time are our cost)--thus we ALWAYS recommend replacing the rest of the components that refrigerant touches if a compressor failure has occurred. If we don't do it, it comes back in a month or so, the customer is highly royally PO'd and he runs off & tells all his buddies how poor the workmanship was, perhaps one of his buddies is one of those greedy attorneys who says that because the a/c didn't work in his tractor, he now suffers from (insert your favorite) illness, and then files a suit against the company and the tech, potentially costing them more than a customer. This is the unfortunate truth to working for the public, and a sign of how litigious our society has become.
The ones I replaced, only one of the consumers asked for the old compressor back. The others I actually disassembled in free time at home studying their failures. One had a burned clutch, could have been replaced-customer wanted the new compressor. The others, the compressor itself was garbage, all exhibited the same complaint (squealing after running briefly). When the system is opened up, you'll also want to replace the dryer assembly which is the cylindrical part near the radiator. When you replace that, do it last--right before vacuuming the system, then pressure testing with nitrogen, then a final vacuum to at least 500 microns. If the compressor itself (not the clutch) has failed, you will have a high likelihood to have all sorts of junk in the rest of the system---lines, hoses, evaporator, and condenser. They'll ALL have to be replaced in order for the system to work properly and be expected to last.
And therein lies one reason a/c repairs are expensive. The other reasons are government regulation, and the tooling required. It will not be long until a license will be required to purchase HFC-R134A refrigerant. From a technician standpoint, we've got to stand behind our work or risk having to do it twice (the second time are our cost)--thus we ALWAYS recommend replacing the rest of the components that refrigerant touches if a compressor failure has occurred. If we don't do it, it comes back in a month or so, the customer is highly royally PO'd and he runs off & tells all his buddies how poor the workmanship was, perhaps one of his buddies is one of those greedy attorneys who says that because the a/c didn't work in his tractor, he now suffers from (insert your favorite) illness, and then files a suit against the company and the tech, potentially costing them more than a customer. This is the unfortunate truth to working for the public, and a sign of how litigious our society has become.
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