Thank you both for the replies. Yeah I'm using an iphone, lol. And yes the Ranger was getting it's butt kicked pretty good but was very duable.. all 400+miles home too! Don't forget the 380# tiller too!
Anyone know how to lube the driveshafts on this tractor??? My WSM is in the mail but I'm getting things done.. For now I have the pdf owners manual
The top link and lift rod (right) 'threads were froze stiff as boards but I got them loose and good today. Plenty of heat came off my oxygas rig.
My battery were drained overnight and I discovered the reg/rectifier were cooked to the mounting pad under the dash.. copper, scorching and the whole nine yards. I was only looking for reasons why the batt died but sheesh! Got a cheezy gear puller for the steering wheel for a better look-see at the rest of things under the dash after removal.
The three point feels like it crunches if you feather the control up or down but it works well. The trans oil is clean but it may not be UDT as the color and smell doesn't match the little bit of UDT I got from the dealer for a comparison. I used a straw and did a side by side dribble inspection.. I'm going with new UDT. I drain the trans oil from the bottom of the case but how do I get the rest of the fluid out from the hard lines and the pump up front, etc? I really want to get it all cleaned out thoroughly and renewed fresh.
As indicated in the thread title- this little tractor is going to the bush as soon as I get it up to proper standards. Right now it's in a warm garage and not out in the freeze. A buddy let me use car space in his garage to learn the tractor where conditions are more optimal rather than out in two feet of snow and howling cold. Mighty nice of him!
I suspect y'all like repair/maintenance/mod pics as much as I do and I'll contribute in that department in the next few days when things are going back on. Plenty to do though.. Any answers to the above inquireys or any positive or helpful contributions are much appreciated. Be cool, freezerburn