Flakey third function solenoid

[m32825]

I've got a WR Long third function kit on my L3800. It worked fine for a decade, but recently it began not to actuate, no click from the solenoids. I tracked the problem back to where the solenoid wire is spliced into the wiring. One of those vampire clamp taps was used and it has become intermittent. When it stops working I can wiggle the third function wire and get it going again. The clamp tap seems like a quick and easy hack, I would like to fix this so I never have to look at it again. There are empty spots in the fuse block, maybe I could give it a dedicated place to land a connector. What's a good way to fix this?

-- Carl

Big red wire runs to the grapple.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Are you talking about battery power or solenoid control wire?

Dan

 

[hedgerow]

If it were me I would take that scotch lock out and cut and strip the wires and solder them together and use a heat shrink tube over the connection. I would clean up the fuse panel also. I remember back when trailer builder's used those scotch locks to tie trailer lights in. One year in the salt and no lights on the trailers. I have replaced a lot of them over the years for folks.

 

[Russell King]

You can simply add a fuse tap to eliminate that tap. Here is an example

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-8dBEueyUO4P/p_074FTATCM/Accele-FT-MiniATC.html?XVINQ=BP1&XVVER=1CIY&awcr=77034724187000&awdv=c&awkw=fuse%20tap&awmt=e&awnw=o&awat=&awug=74163

But I would cut the butt connection off and solder the wires together and use marine grade shrink tube to seal the splice.

 

[m32825]

Are you talking about battery power or solenoid control wire?

Dan

The big red wire goes to a switch (spdt?) that sends power to one side or the other of the solenoids that move the spools of the third function. Not sure if I'm answering your question?

 

[m32825]

You can simply add a fuse tap to eliminate that tap. Here is an example

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-8dBEueyUO4P/p_074FTATCM/Accele-FT-MiniATC.html?XVINQ=BP1&XVVER=1CIY&awcr=77034724187000&awdv=c&awkw=fuse%20tap&awmt=e&awnw=o&awat=&awug=74163

But I would cut the butt connection off and solder the wires together and use marine grade shrink tube to seal the splice.

I like that idea. There's not a lot of slack to work with on the existing wires. I was hoping there might be a switched power bus I could add a wire/fuse to and run to my third function switch. Surely there is a clean way to add lights, etc?

 

[TheOldHokie]

The big red wire goes to a switch (spdt?) that sends power to one side or the other of the solenoids that move the spools of the third function. Not sure if I'm answering your question?

Thats battery power to solenoid control switch. I would solder it to the other wire ir install something like this.

Dan

 

[m32825]

@TheOldHokie that looks promising, I did not know those existed. Thanks for the suggestion, that would definitely be an upgrade.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

option 'J'...
disconnect battery !, remove the 'scotch' connector, clean the wires really,really good, tin them, then wrap 'feed wire to 3rdfnx' around 'power' wire, solder very well, wrap with electrical tape.
Now you have a solid connection ! Using taps or bullet adapters isn't the best solution, you have a LOT of vibration and weather to deal with.

 

[m32825]

Investigated more and talked with the local Kubota dealer. The yellow wire they tied into goes to a (unused) work light connector under the left fender, so it is a good switched/fused power choice. Tracing back to the source, looks like I might be able to tap the AC terminal on the back of the ignition switch using an inline fuse like @Russell King suggested, that's more in the neighborhood of the third function actuator.

 

[m32825]

I don't use the work light so I turned that fuse block location (yellow wire) into a dedicated third function. Soldered it and covered it adhesive lined heat shrink. Hopefully I will never see it again.