First tractor help

[Flutterwry]

I have been watching a lot of YouTube videos and I think I have it narrowed down to 1 of 3 models however I still need some assistance with pulling the trigger. For me price is a big thing to consider which is why I'm typically looking at the most basic version of each tractor.

I'll start with my applications, first the tractor will need a backhoe as I need to dig a LOT of drainage. Once that is done the tractor will spend most of its time in a forest setting doing trail maintenance. I would consider the trail maintenance to be quite extreme featuring; leveling massive ruts from industrial logging skid steers, digging out stumps, and bush hogging new trails.

The three models I'm considering are;

The BX23SLBB-T (TLB). My main reason for looking at this is the price is amazing, very affordable tractor. My main concern with it is 1. as small as it is would it be more susceptible to damage in the woods? 2. It seems too small to run a bush hog of decent size I'm looking for one that can handle 2" brush.

The LX2610. this one looks really good nice sized tires to keep the tractor off the forest floor, but most bush hogs I can find that can cut 2" require more 20+ HP at the PTO and this only has 19.5.

I'm also looking at the L2501. This is a smaller upgrade but it doesn't seem to be much more money at all and currently Kubota is offering an implement discount for these that makes them attractive. I don't really have any concerns with this one just that it also only has 19.5 HP at the PTO.

Thank you for your help.

 

[armylifer]

Visit your dealer and get in the seat of each one. The dealer can help you make the decision on which one is best for you better than we can. We can make suggestions but your local dealer knows your area and what conditions you would be operating under. Develop a relationship with a good dealer and he will be a valuable resource in the future.

 

[Nicfin36]

Based on your description, it almost sounds like you need a bigger tractor.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Based on your description, it almost sounds like you need a bigger tractor.

That's my first thought. OP, how much acreage, how many miles of trail and how much time do you have?

Cutting 2" brush is not a trivial task. We used to cut a few 2-3" saplings with our old Allis Chalmers C (25 hp) pulling a 5-1/2' bush hog, usually backing over them to keep from tearing something off the tractor. We now have a Ford 3930 (50 hp) and 6' 3ph bush hog and use it the same way. I've also used the L35s FEL to push up saplings that size. If they're thick, I use a brush cutter to cut them off clean. I'm usually cutting sweet gum which resprout, so I squirt the cut stumps with herbicide as I go.

I really think a BX is too small for your needs. Look at its ground clearance and ability to lift a mid/heavy duty cutter. Have you considered used equipment?

 

[Flutterwry]

That's my first thought. OP, how much acreage, how many miles of trail and how much time do you have?

Cutting 2" brush is not a trivial task. We used to cut a few 2-3" saplings with our old Allis Chalmers C (25 hp) pulling a 5-1/2' bush hog, usually backing over them to keep from tearing something off the tractor. We now have a Ford 3930 (50 hp) and 6' 3ph bush hog and use it the same way. I've also used the L35s FEL to push up saplings that size. If they're thick, I use a brush cutter to cut them off clean. I'm usually cutting sweet gum which resprout, so I squirt the cut stumps with herbicide as I go.

I really think a BX is too small for your needs. Look at its ground clearance and ability to lift a mid/heavy duty cutter. Have you considered used equipment?

I have 44 acers but that is farmed by someone who rents off of us, we have probably a mile of trails on our property that have fallen into disrepair. On our property the other big chores we have is installing a lot of drainage and putting in a pond.

The other property is my cousins cabin/ a property that we lease. It totals over 600 acers, that area is where we're looking at putting in trails/maintaining trails. (a HUGE portion of that 600 acers we will never touch.) Time wise the other property is about an hour and a half drive so it would be the odd weekend I could make it up there and spend the day working.

The big reason I was looking at new is that Kubota is offering 0% financing.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I have 44 acers but that is farmed by someone who rents off of us, we have probably a mile of trails on our property that have fallen into disrepair. On our property the other big chores we have is installing a lot of drainage and putting in a pond.

The other property is my cousins cabin/ a property that we lease. It totals over 600 acers, that area is where we're looking at putting in trails/maintaining trails. (a HUGE portion of that 600 acers we will never touch.) Time wise the other property is about an hour and a half drive so it would be the odd weekend I could make it up there and spend the day working.

I think you could justify an L model. But you've introduced another wrinkle with the 2 properties. I assume that is 1-1/2 hours on trailer. What hauling capability do you have?

 

[Flutterwry]

I think you could justify an L model. But you've introduced another wrinkle with the 2 properties. I assume that is 1-1/2 hours on trailer. What hauling capability do you have?

My trailer has 5000lbs of payload. My truck can tow a max of 14500lbs with 4500lbs of payload.

 

[NCL4701]

I got a L4701 for 55 acres that had trails that were originally logging trails, firewood operations, gravel road, and several areas that needed brush hogging, all of which had been neglected for several years. I’m not saying you can’t get by with a smaller L but what you’re describing is worse than the rehab project I had and I wouldn’t want anything with a smaller frame. If our trails were a bit wider, I would have moved up to a M in the mid-50hp range.

For transport weight, this probably sounds obvious but I didn’t think much about overall weight when I got my L. Weight is listed at a bit over 3,000lb. Since drawbar max force is dependent partly on weight, didn’t think it would pull more than about 2,500 drawbar at best. After breaking a 5200lb break strength chain twice, read the book again and it was a bit over 3,000lb but that was bare tractor without loaded tires. Add about 1000 for loaded rears + 1100 for the loader + around 250 more for the grapple + 550 for the box scrape + some fuel + my fat butt in the seat = too much for a 5,000lb capacity trailer even if I get off, which I would. Sounds like you need a backhoe and they ain’t light.

If you get anywhere near enough tractor sounds like you have enough truck, but need to watch your total actual weight on the trailer.

 

[Nicfin36]

Looking at the specs, I would guess my L2501 is close to 5000 lbs with the loader, backhoe and filled tires.

 

[PaulL]

Of the three you list, the L2501 is the best for that job - nothing you talk about needs a mid PTO, and the L is just a stronger machine with more torque. But I'd be tempted to go larger for what you describe - and that means getting into a machine with DPF. Or a second hand machine.

 

[NCL4701]

Of the three you list, the L2501 is the best for that job - nothing you talk about needs a mid PTO, and the L is just a stronger machine with more torque. But I'd be tempted to go larger for what you describe - and that means getting into a machine with DPF. Or a second hand machine.

I REALLY didn’t want DPF but the reality is you can’t avoid it unless you either keep the HP down, which is simply unacceptable for some operations, or go with an older machine that you’ll be wrenching on semi-routinely to keep it moving. There are a lot of machines in use currently with Tier 4 and while there will always be some with problems, just like there will always be some machines with problems of some sort, it’s not as big a deal as some make out. I’m only 170 hours in on mine but it has been a total non-issue for me. If you need a bigger machine I wouldn’t choose a machine underpowered for the chores at hand solely to avoid Tier 4. I’m not retired and I needed a tractor to work with 90% of the time and work on 10% of the time. Already had older machines but they were to the point of work on it 50% of the time or more and work with it the rest of the time.

For some things a smaller machine will do the same job, just slower. However, there are some jobs I’ve had, like running a chipper that will chip a 6” limb or moving our millstones or skidding a 30” log or lifting a 1500lb piece of channel iron, where a smaller machine simply won’t get it done. If you get into the L series, which is probably minimum where you need to be, the price difference between a 25, 33, 39, 47, etc. is something I’d take a hard look at. At least a couple years ago when I bought mine, there was a big difference between the 01 series basic tractors and the 60 series, but difference between say a 33 and 47 was very little. The 60 series tractors are very nice but I simply didn’t need all the features they have for what I’m doing.

Point being, be realistic with what you need and don’t let the Tier 4 dictate what you get. Just my opinion. I’m aware some hate DPF but seems most who hate it don’t have it.

 

[BAP]

If you have a lot of digging to do, you might look at the B26 or L47 equipped with the optional 3 pt hitch. Much more rugged loader backhoe combination and better setup seat/control area for a lot of digging.

 

[GeoHorn]

I REALLY didn’t want DPF but the reality is you can’t avoid it unless you either keep the HP down, which is simply unacceptable for some operations, or go with an older machine that you’ll be wrenching on semi-routinely to keep it moving.

That is not necessarily true.

This is exactly what I did to AVOID emissions issues and found TWO M-4700’s within 20 miles of my home, each for less than $20K and each with less than 500 hours on them. I bought the $17K one without the grapple (probably an error since it was only $2K more)... but the ONLY thing I’ve had to do since was buy an alternator ($80) and butt-splice repair a couple mouse-chewed wires. (15-cents...I figure the mouse is what caused the alt to fail.)
Three years later... still NO problems with this tractor, it’s a real hard-working utility tractor with NO DPF, no emissions controls or electronics to trouble me.

 

[swpflipper]

If I'm not mistaken all diesel since 2016 are tier 4. HP determine the after treatment system, DPF or DEF etc.
I am new to tractors, but not equipment. Smaller may do the job just not as efficient. Let's face it, you can dig a trench with a shovel so the smallest is still faster. Larger comes with cost and as pointed out, weight that must be moved. When it comes to trailering, don't skimp or calculate your weight so close that if you leave a bottle of water in the cupholder your overweight.
I also suggest taking a hard look at the attachment PTO required HP.

 

[NCL4701]

That is not necessarily true.

This is exactly what I did to AVOID emissions issues and found TWO M-4700’s within 20 miles of my home, each for less than $20K and each with less than 500 hours on them. I bought the $17K one without the grapple (probably an error since it was only $2K more)... but the ONLY thing I’ve had to do since was buy an alternator ($80) and butt-splice repair a couple mouse-chewed wires. (15-cents...I figure the mouse is what caused the alt to fail.)
Three years later... still NO problems with this tractor, it’s a real hard-working utility tractor with NO DPF, no emissions controls or electronics to trouble me. View attachment 51437

That’s a really pretty rig you found. Looks like it was kept inside and well cared for. If you can find something in that condition for a reasonable price I’d agree it’s a good option.

I looked for something similar here for about a year before going with new. The used market for Deere, Kubota, New Holland tractors other than large ag here was not good for medium sized tractor/loaders. Seemed like most of the well maintained low hour machines were too small for my purposes. Medium size tractors were commercial units with high hours and hard use from the employee driver of the day. I could have gone further back and gotten something like a Ford 3000 for a reasonable price but anything with 4wd and loader was either priced out of sight (and rare) or had major issues/very high hours. Could have gotten a Mahindra or off brand (Montana, Canyon, etc.) used for a reasonable price and condition but was pretty much set on a top tier unit. May depend to some degree what the market is in your area. If you can find something like you did, not a bad option at all.

 

[random]

Based on your description, it almost sounds like you need a bigger tractor.

Can't speak to the OPs situation, but when I bought, I went up a size bigger than I thought I would need (to L3301), and have not regretted it at all. In fact I am certain I WOULD have regretted NOT doing it.

 

[MNVikingsGuy]

BX seems small. LX or L are probably right, but either way you might what to hire in somebody with a skidsteer and tree mulcher to get things started with the initial tree-clearing and then use the tractor for maintenance and upgrades.

 

[nbryan]

I haven't regretted for a minute choosing the B2650 for working our 119 acres with some fields and mostly mixed forest. It gets swampy too so the lighter machine is the perfect balance of power, weight, size, and maneuverability for us. Not in a big rush to complete any projects that a larger machine might speed up a little. My attachment collection pretty much does the gamut of what I need, but there's always the dream of a few more toys like a 3-point pto post hole auger, and a 3-point trailer hitch receiver frame, and a subsoiler. All for the next stage which is more fencing, grazing livestock, swale and pond creation, and tree planting and maintenance.

 

[Flutterwry]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I went in and priced out an L3301, unfortunately it was raining and cold so I didn't get on one to try it out which is a shame. I'm also buying a box blade and rotary cutter in the package. I think this is the one I'm going to go with, does anyone have any advice on the actual purchasing stage? Is there very much haggle room on these? Anything I should ask before I sign?

 

[ayak]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I went in and priced out an L3301, unfortunately it was raining and cold so I didn't get on one to try it out which is a shame. I'm also buying a box blade and rotary cutter in the package. I think this is the one I'm going to go with, does anyone have any advice on the actual purchasing stage? Is there very much haggle room on these? Anything I should ask before I sign?

Are you looking at HST or DT in the L3301? I’m doing everything you’ve mentioned (to an absolute T) with an HST L3301 and it’s been perfect with no DPF issues (I run it hard). As mentioned previously though, you will likely need a 10K trailer (20’).