First tractor B6000 - First post & help with a few items.

[ozb6000]

Hi,

I'm from Melbourne, Australia. Just picked up my very first tractor a 197X B6000.

Have found a bunch of great information here (particularly about the reverse PTO and all the manuals) so off to a good start.

So far.. It's old but in almost perfect working order!

Journey so far:

1. Missing the key - Part #: 66591-61122. Can't seem to find a picture of it. Would prefer to order it locally but can't seem to find a photo to do a visual match. If anyone has one and could upload a photo that would be much appreciated.

2. Replaced the battery and it started almost first go!

3. Fitted with an aftermarket? Front end - which initially had a bent/leaking hydraulic connector. After a hose replacement is now all working perfectly! Bucket curls and lifts great.

4. PTO working and 3 point hitch seems to lift/lower fine.

5. Clutch is stuck engaged - can get it in gears fine though and have movement in forward gears. Needs a little more investigation - hoping to not have to take drastic measures and split the tractor but would love any thoughts...

6. Reverse is "clunky" - might be related to the clutch issue? But very jerky movement when in reverse. Hoping again it's something simple and doesn't need a gearbox rebuild...

Looking forward to getting it all up and running.

 

[johnjk]

Welcome and congrats on your new purchase. Check out EManualonline.com. You should be able to find owners and service manuals for your B6000 there. For you clutch, I would look at the linkage for a start and work from there. Make sure all your fluids are filled up or if needing a change, give her fresh fluids and filters all around.

A quick search on Messicks.com shows that number you have for your key has been replaced by 66591-61190. Around 10 USD, no photo. Looked up the key for my B3200 just in case and it is a totally different part number. Hopefully someone else can post a photo for you

Have fun with your B and make sure to post lots of photos

John

 

[vic gerbasi]

maybe just try a key from the same model # from a friend or ??? i think that here the keys are not done for individual tractors 1 model y fits all model y

 

[Dave_eng]

The clutch can become stuck for at least two reasons. The first is the disk rusting to the flywheel. Using a wood block on the clutch pedal when storing the tractor is discussed in the threads which follow. A second cause can be the splines on the clutch disk rusting to the splines on the transmission shaft

As a first step, while the clutch pedal is depressed, the tractor moving slowly in a high gear, apply brakes brakes hard. You are trying to force the clutch disk to slip on the flywheel.

This thread has a unique fix for the stuck clutch.

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34280&highlight=stuck*clutch

This next thread talks about how to prevent it in the future.

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13376&highlight=stuck*clutch

This link takes you to a Forum article on clutches.

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/2009/01/getting-to-know-your-kubotas-clutch/

Keys for Kubota tractors are unlike those for cars and trucks. Your key is not unique to your tractor but will be the same as thousands of early B's.

A dealer should be able to supply the correct one. Kubota mechanics have a small set of keys which start all machines.

Dave

 

[ozb6000]

Thanks so much for the warm welcome and detailed replies.

Fluid levels were all checked before first start but a full service with filters and fluid replacement is definitely in order before it sees any real use.

I’ve managed to track down a key locally from the part numbers and ordered it - fingers crossed it’s the right one. I’ll be sure to post a picture for anyone else that might come across this post in the future.

I’ll try the clutch brake trick this weekend and see how we go!

 

[Dave_eng]

I came across this illustration of the wood block to hold the clutch released that will help show you where to put the block.

Dave

 

[ozb6000]

Thanks everyone for the clutch advice. Managed to get a screw driver into the inspection hole and gently pryed the plate/flywheel apart. From what I can see the clutch must have been replaced at some point as it looks to be in pretty good condition. Must have been a little water in between the clutch/flywheel as suggested and it's simply rusted together. I've now taken the advice of a wooden block under the pedal to keep it disengaged when not in use.

I spent another afternoon replacing the engine oil last week (unfortunately couldn't clear out the oil filter it's inconveniently in-accessible behind the under carriage frame of the FEL). But other scratching my head trying to find the oil dipstick (very camouflaged by the starter - and the knob painted in kubota blue!) the job was pretty uneventful. The engine now starts beautifully and I'm sure it'll continue to.

Next was the transmission fluid. Drained and cleaned the rear cigar style filter - here the FEL frame was notched for easy access. The years old fluid came out better than expected with only a little water. I topped it off with a fresh 9L and hoped my grinding reverse would be sorted.

BUT today wasn't my day.... Pictures here

The grinding in reverse was clearly not going away with some fresh oil - so began the surgery...

Pulling up the manual was pretty handy and after a solid half day - I had most of the rear end split - and the problem was pretty apparent.

It looks like over time (40y+) a little play had developed on the central shaft and one of the gears was no longer fully engaging on its full width. With less engagement, the teeth were now under more stress and had half worn off. I guess as time went on that gear copped more and more abuse and now several teeth have completed sheered off.

The PTO gear selector for 2nd speed also looks like it could be replaced but it's quite expensive! 279 euro!!! What?! Maybe i can live with speeds 1/3 for the PTO...

At this stage I'll likely order the main 18t gear (Can't have a tractor without reverse!) and a few oil seals and call it a day. Will be nice to have saved a machine that might otherwise have ended up in a scrap pile.

On the plus side - everything else is wonderfully clean inside, no rust and nothing else looks to be significantly worn/damaged or missing.

I wonder if this is a common problem on this model? And wonder if there is a way to shim the loose gear to properly engage - otherwise more than likely the issue will happen again??

Also has anyone any experience with replacement gaskets? from the looks of it I'll need quite a few and was wondering if I could make my own from generic gasket material?


Project list:
- replace reverse gear.
- fix key barrel (currently permanently bypassed - still waiting on my key in the mail)
- wire up lights. The tractor came without socket/globes. Have ordered generic 1156 replacement sockets/LED globes and need to wire these back up.
- check wiring/alternator - battery is not being charged - no voltage on battery leads while engine is running. Should expect around 13 volts ?