First time tractor buying advice.

[Ozarkfrontier86]

I recently bought our forever dream home on 45 acres in Missouri ozarks area. I’m looking for first time tractor advice on what model. 35 acres is wooded and 10 is pasture. I’m trying to decide what size tractor I need. I originally was going to buy a l3901 model. I need something to brush hog 10 acres with. Skid logs out of woods, I have a hardy outdoor furnace. I plan on getting a set of forks to move wood as well. Plow snow with it and grade our driveway that is 1/3 of a mile. Put in a few food plots for deer. Our ground has some hills in it. We plan on getting a couple horses too so a tractor would help with up keep of stalls. Put in a small garden. I think the 3901 can do everything I need it to do but I want to pick some more people brains and make sure I don’t need bigger one. Other I’m considering is a l4701 or a mx5400.
I can buy the l3901 hst with fel and landpride brush hog for $25500
L4701 would run me 29690
Mx5400 would run me 31050
The 3901 would be good for maneuvering in and out of woods better since it is smaller. I don’t want to buy a bigger tractor at more money if the 3901 will do everything I need it to do.

 

[Roadworthy]

I thought about the L3901. Then i learned it had a diesel particulate filter (DPF) and associated computer stuff and bought the much simpler L2501. I'm mowing ten acres and don't NEED the larger tractor, you may. Be advised both tractors use the same LA525 loader. Bear that in mind when thinking about forks if putting them on the front. Generally though, heavier is better. You can do the same stuff with a smaller tractor, it just takes longer, but I only remove snow from a quarter mile driveway.

 

[PaulL]

You can do everything you describe with a B2601 or an LX (refer the GP Outdoors channel on YouTube - he's owned both and done much of what you describe).

An L size frame will do it all faster and better. You're a good candidate for an L machine as nothing you describe needs a mid-PTO. An MX will do it faster and better still.

The big question is what HP you need. All the L machines do the same other than when it comes to running PTO implements. You are plowing not blowing snow, so you don't need much HP for that (you just need traction). You are brush hogging, and that takes HP. But I think an L3901 has enough HP to run any brush hog that it can lift - the extra HP in the L4701 won't probably make a difference to the size brush hog you can run.

Personally, while the L2501 is a great machine, I think it'd be a bit underpowered for you. People get excited about the DPF, but most tractors sold today have it, so it's clearly working well enough. I wouldn't squeeze down to the 25HP model just to avoid DPF.

My understanding is that they don't sell a lot of L4701s, because it doesn't do a lot more than the L3901, and the MX is so close in price. If you want to do more you buy the MX, other than a few specialist uses. If you are size limited in the woods that might be a reason to go L4701, but only if you have a real need for the HP.

Diversion here into tractor HP. If you connect something directly to the engine (e.g. PTO implement) then HP matters. So snow blowers, brush hogs, big mowers, generators, wood chippers all matter. But many implements are either connected to the hydraulics, or pulled by the tractor. If it's connected to the hydraulics, what matters is the hydraulic pump. More HP won't make it lift more. I know there are different size loaders on the L models, but I think the L3901 and L4701 have the same loader and same hydraulic pump. For things you pull or push (plows, box blades, skidding logs etc), what matters is traction. All of those tractors (other than maybe the L2501) will spin their wheels even on pavement. So you're limited by traction, not by HP, and more HP won't let you pull a bigger box blade. What matters for traction is weight, and the MX is a heavier machine.

Bottom line - if what you want to do can be done with an L series, I'd go L3901. If you need more capability, you probably need an MX.

 

[UpNorthMI]

I own both the L3901 and an MX, PaulL makes good comments above. You have already made the comment about getting into tighter woodland areas which is important.

The L3901 is a great machine as it has enough pto HP to run reasonable size attachments. Lots of attachments that I use fit into the 20-25 HP minimum. If you are buying a HST model you will have 30HP at the PTO, this is a very useable power. The only limitation that I feel the L3901 has is the loader capacity. I found that with forks on the maximum it will lift is about 1,000 lbs, sometimes I want to lift a little more and use my MX. For 98% of my lifting requirements a L3901 will work.

Overall I really like the L3901 and for your planned use I feel it would be a good selection. You will need 3rd function front hydraulics to run a grapple, strongly recommend at least 1 set of rear hydraulic remotes, loaded rear tires, rear work light, front SSQA attachment & fit telescopic rear 3pt stabilizers.

For forks, I use a set of UA 42” forks, they are the perfect fit and size for the L3901.
the only other mod I suggest is to add a rear carry basket to the rops, so useful for chainsaw etc.

As you look at a rotary cutter I strongly recommend you buy a heavier model, you have the PTO HP to run a heavier cutter. This is very useful along the wood edge and in your woods. I like the rotary cutters from Woods, the current model cutter I would suggest is the BB60.30 model, 672 lbs in weight, thay have lots of nice features. If you do buy a Landpride I suggest you buy a heavier cutter similar to the Woods model. Paying extra for chain guards is a good decision in the long run, older ones are always missing the rubber guards!

Don't buy less HP, the 30 HP at the PTO is too important and useful in the long term, Cab tractors are a problem when you want to get in the woods. The L3901 is affordable, save any extra money for hydraulics and attachments. The Grand L models will eat a lot of extra money.

Tires - Unless you are running across lawn or using in a yard a lot I would fit R1 ag tires, have the dealer set the rims to maximum width and load the tires.

Good luck with your new tractor.

 

[BigG]

I find it very interesting how things are always better with a bigger tractor. I would think that you need to do a cost / benefit analysis. Do you need to spend 30 or 40 thousand dollars to cut a few cords of wood for the winter? Or mow a 10 acre field? Or groom 2000 feet of driveway? What about the cost of the implements? A L2501 has no computer nor DPF to worry about. It has the power to run a 5 foot rotary cutter. It will move logs both in the grapple and on the ground. It will grade a drive way. It will till a food plot or garden.

Are you doing anything with the tractor to feed or care for you and your family? Do you need to spend the extra thousands of dollars to save a couple hours of tractor time per year. A 5 foot mower at 3 mph cuts 1.64 acres per hour. A 6 foot mower at 3 mph cuts 1.96 acres per hour. Seams like a lot of money for few minutes of mowing.

I know a guy who purchased a new Kubota 7060 cab tractor to mow 4 acres of lawn. I think he is the winner of the bigger is better race.

There are hundreds of old Ford 2Ns, 8Ns and 9Ns that are still used. Are they the best tractors every made? No, hell no. However the simple well made machines are reliable and repairable. These new tractors have systems in them that the owner can not repair. The computer must be serviced by a dealer. There is no way around the dealer only repairs and if parts need replaced you need to grab your wallet. Will these tractors last 20 years without problems? Only time will tell. How long will the repairs of the computer be possible?

Now if you have become one of the people that want to buy a new tractor every few years then go for all the glory and buy the biggest most complex tractor that you can afford.

An example of why you want to stay away from the dealer, car or tractor. I can no longer work on my own equipment. I called the Chevy dealer and asked the price of a drive shaft rebuild. $210 per hour for 4 hours for labor only plus parts. My son dropped the drive shaft in less then 15 minutes. Rebuilt by a professional rebuilder after shortening and balancing the shaft $350 for parts and labor. And 15 minutes to reinstall the drive shaft saved me hundreds of dollars.

 

[85Hokie]

Two questions........

Budget? One might say - buy the biggest you can afford............

But if you buy a MX ............ and you rarely use the power of it - did you waste money? Perhaps.

as many have said in the past - "never heard someone say = I wish I had bought a smaller tractor!"

Here is a thought for you - buy the L of your choice, then if you see fit - buy another used machine that can take care of one item at a time to do something else. Some of "US crazy people" rather NOT change implements on the rear but change seats on a different machine.

Big G mention an old FORD 8n .......... talk about a bullet proof machine - but it has it's limitations - however it will pull a implement very well, it will skid logs, it cost $2500-$3000 and needs very little to make it run. Almost worth to have another machine than to change the implement on the rear!

When you get the new machine - send pictures, every one loves to see new tractors.

 

[jimh406]

I considered some of the same tractors and bought a L2501. I’ll explain my reasoning.

I will brush hog, do gravel road maintenance, light loader work, some planting, yard landscaping, and fencing. I’ve been managing my 130 acres for wildlife although I might buy livestock in the future.

Other models you should consider are the Grand L Limited models. They have a 3560 and 4060. The standard loader is stronger than the standard L and they have an optional loader that can handle even more. The Grand L models also come with the HST+ transmission. Both can also be had with the cab like the MX can.

Besides heating/cooling, cabs also keep insects from attacking you and keeps dust out. If you will mow several times a year, it’s a consideration. I’m fully retired, and can pick my weather although I don’t mind the cold or heat, but I don’t have the humidity that you have with only 12-14 inches of precip in my area. I also don’t plan to brush hog when insects are out or when it is extremely dusty.

Since it is dry here in the Summer, I plan to brush hog about once a year in early Spring or late Winter. I’ve used it to move some snow, so far. It can pull my driveway in H mode which is about as steep as the areas I will mow. It’s not fast. Since the areas I plan to own are hilly, I don’t plan to mow fast. I’ve planted food plots with my Polaris Ranger by broadcasting and harrowing. I believe any tractor can handle that task. If you plan to use a no-till drill, HP is definitely a consideration. Seeds are relatively expensive, so a drill pays for rental to some extent because you use less seeds.

Frankly, I expect to be in L a lot of the time while mowing for stability. For me, it wasn’t worth spending more money just in case on a larger tractor although of course, some people say buy once cry once. In that respect, I think that’s a MX6000 cab model. I don’t think I’ll likely move round bales or even use them. You might. The larger tractor will be helpful. As noted, I’m on hilly ground and there would be danger of them rolling no matter what tractor I have, so I expect its going to be square bales of some type. I have 12 acres that are hayed by a friend into large round bales. He has very large tractors.

My only question about the HP is mowing, but with the grass being relatively thin by Spring/Late Winter, I don’t think I’m going to have any issues. I’ll see once the snows goes away. When I want to travel faster on the property, I use the Ranger with a top speed of about 45.

You haven’t mentioned tires, so that will be fun for you too. I went with R4s because they are a tougher tire that won’t kill my yard if I’m in it for some reason. It’s rocky in my area.

Have fun!

 

[JimmyJazz]

Not everyone is blessed with the "Scottish" genetics so I will share my opinion. I would look for an older pre emissions 40-60 HP diesel powered tractor with a loader in the $10,000 price range. If you hate it you can probably sell it for what you paid for it. If you keep it for awhile you might sell it for more than you paid for it. My neighbor who is a "real farmer" is partial to the International brand. I once witnessed him perform an in-frame rebuild of the engine out in the dirt. Looked like dinosaur bones. Simple. No fancy electronics , no clearing of codes , no payments. The law of the land round here. Hillbillies here in Appalachia are often of Scottish decent. Good luck and enjoy your new homestead.

 

[nwjones18]

L3901 and L4701 have different loaders. There is a pretty large difference in loader capacity 1100lbs/1700lbs (roughly) to full height. Personally I wanted a 500lb grapple so the L4701 gave me the total lift capacity I was wanting. MX has and even stronger loader than the L4701. I was buying used so the small cost difference between a new L4701 and a MX wasn't a consideration for me, but it does sound like something to think about.

When I was shopping new I was looking at L2501's as well. There are plenty of youtube videos of folks running 5-6ft bush hogs on them through thick stuff with no issues, and that's all the power I'd need. I just liked the idea of the extra lift capacity on the L4701 and got lucky when one popped up for sale.

 

[GeoHorn]

Jimmyjazz has a good idea...but you’d be having the “Luck ’O‘ the Irish” if you find one for $10,000 (Unless you think a 2-wheel drive is all you want.)

Spend $15K-$20K and you can get a 4-WD “Utility” model such as a ‘90s era Kubota “M”. and it will handle virtually anything you’ve mentioned and a lot more you haven’t.... and it’ll have ZERO emissions junk.... straight, cast-iron diesel.

 

[UpNorthMI]

If your budget extends to new, I would buy new, have a warranty and focus on using your machine. I have over 300 acres of woodland and the L3901 is great for getting deep into the woods, it's much more difficult getting my MX5800 deep into the woods. My L series tractors run for a lot more hours on a tank of fuel and do a lot of the work that my MX can. If your land was all open and you had a lot of acres for groundwork I would advise you to get a cab MX. The L3901 will take longer to brush hog your 10 acres but not by too much. You will appreciate the L series size and the 39 HP when you are doing other work in your woodland.

Here's mine deep in the wood clearing an area for a food plot.

 

[jabloomf1230]

Sure, as one goes up the Kubota tractor lineup the HP increases, but the big difference is the durability of the frame and attachments. Ask yourself, are you going to put this tractor through hell or just use it for small stuff?

 

[JimmyJazz]

Jimmyjazz has a good idea...but you’d be having the “Luck ’O‘ the Irish” if you find one for $10,000 (Unless you think a 2-wheel drive is all you want.)

Spend $15K-$20K and you can get a 4-WD “Utility” model such as a ‘90s era Kubota “M”. and it will handle virtually anything you’ve mentioned and a lot more you haven’t.... and it’ll have ZERO emissions junk.... straight, cast-iron diesel.

With "saving" the extra 5 to $10,000 round these parts we would consider putting it towards gettin our teeth fixed. I said consider. And yes , two wheel drive is plenty if its working good. Might take a little longer but what's the hurry?

 

[GeoHorn]

With "saving" the extra 5 to $10,000 round these parts we would consider putting it towards gettin our teeth fixed. I said consider. And yes , two wheel drive is plenty if its working good. Might take a little longer but what's the hurry?

I should have also mentioned that a <$10K tractor may not have a FEL, and 4WD is essential IMO for loaders.

 

[JimmyJazz]

I should have also mentioned that a <$10K tractor may not have a FEL, and 4WD is essential IMO for loaders.

There are 150 tractors listed on Tractorhouse currently priced between $6,000 and $12,000 with loaders in the 45 hp and up range . None of these will probably be driven in a Fourth of July parade. This representative sample does not of course include maybe the 100,000 or more potentially available elsewhere. If you earn your living with a tractor and can depreciate its cost it might make sense to spend up. Read Allan Nations book Knowledge Rich Ranching . Its an eyeopener. I will contend many compact tractor owners are hobbyists and can gain the same utility from an old used tractor purchased on the cheap just as I have. Just because you can purchase a $50,000 tractor doesn't mean you should. I understand the aversion to hiring someone to do something you can do yourself but if you put a pencil to it for most people a purchase of this nature is a poor allocation of financial resources. Same thing with a $70,000 pickup truck.

 

[Henro]

I recently bought our forever dream home on 45 acres in Missouri ozarks area. I’m looking for first time tractor advice on what model. 35 acres is wooded and 10 is pasture. I’m trying to decide what size tractor I need. I originally was going to buy a l3901 model. I need something to brush hog 10 acres with. Skid logs out of woods, I have a hardy outdoor furnace. I plan on getting a set of forks to move wood as well. Plow snow with it and grade our driveway that is 1/3 of a mile. Put in a few food plots for deer. Our ground has some hills in it. We plan on getting a couple horses too so a tractor would help with up keep of stalls. Put in a small garden. I think the 3901 can do everything I need it to do but I want to pick some more people brains and make sure I don’t need bigger one. Other I’m considering is a l4701 or a mx5400.
I can buy the l3901 hst with fel and landpride brush hog for $25500
L4701 would run me 29690
Mx5400 would run me 31050
The 3901 would be good for maneuvering in and out of woods better since it is smaller. I don’t want to buy a bigger tractor at more money if the 3901 will do everything I need it to do.

So in reality you have 10 acres plus a lot of woods that you likely will want to harvest firewood from and maybe make trails through.

I suggest you read a lot of threads here about the issues and complexity of the emission controls that tractors over around 25 hp have.

If you were dealing with 35 acres all of which you had to maintain, a large tractor would likely make sense. But are you? Sounds like you are not.

Personally, if I were in your situation, I would likely go with the L2501. It should hold its value pretty good. Worst case you could trade in and upgrade to something bigger if after having some experience with the tractor you felt the need.

Before the emission controls came into play, bigger always seemed to be a good idea. Today, less so, as the complexity offsets the advantage. AND larger is not necessarily an advantage when working in close clearance areas like between trees, etc.

 

[PaulL]

There are 150 tractors listed on Tractorhouse currently priced between $6,000 and $12,000 with loaders in the 45 hp and up range . None of these will probably be driven in a Fourth of July parade. This representative sample does not of course include maybe the 100,000 or more potentially available elsewhere. If you earn your living with a tractor and can depreciate its cost it might make sense to spend up. Read Allan Nations book Knowledge Rich Ranching . Its an eyeopener. I will contend many compact tractor owners are hobbyists and can gain the same utility from an old used tractor purchased on the cheap just as I have. Just because you can purchase a $50,000 tractor doesn't mean you should. I understand the aversion to hiring someone to do something you can do yourself but if you put a pencil to it for most people a purchase of this nature is a poor allocation of financial resources. Same thing with a $70,000 pickup truck.

I agree to a point. But for many of the people we're talking about, they're hobby farmers or even not farmers at all, just people with a bit of land they want to play on. There are a lot of hobbies that cost a lot of money to operate. I know people with $300K boats, people who spend $4K on a set of golf clubs, and a lot of people with cars or trucks worth north of $100K that they drive a few times a year. Measured by that standard, a $30-50K tractor that you probably do get on and use every weekend is a bargain. Even more so when you figure that it's still worth $30-50K when you're done with it.

If you're trying to use it to generate income, and doing that on a hobby farm, then I agree you're dreaming. But most hobby farms are cash negative anyway - that's why they're a hobby and not a real farm. If you're farming for a living then you should operate very differently than if you're farming for fun.

 

[GeoHorn]

There are 150 tractors listed on Tractorhouse currently priced between $6,000 and $12,000 with loaders in the 45 hp and up range . None of these will probably be driven in a Fourth of July parade. This representative sample does not of course include maybe the 100,000 or more potentially available elsewhere. If you earn your living with a tractor and can depreciate its cost it might make sense to spend up. Read Allan Nations book Knowledge Rich Ranching . Its an eyeopener. I will contend many compact tractor owners are hobbyists and can gain the same utility from an old used tractor purchased on the cheap just as I have. Just because you can purchase a $50,000 tractor doesn't mean you should. I understand the aversion to hiring someone to do something you can do yourself but if you put a pencil to it for most people a purchase of this nature is a poor allocation of financial resources. Same thing with a $70,000 pickup truck.

I like your logic JimmyJazz...and am not disagreeing with your suggestions.... but anyone who is considering a first-tractor will not likely think about the fact that a front-end-loader puts a Lot of the weight being lifted on the front axle.... and a rear-wheel-drive tractor might lose traction and become downright dangerous if that rear-wheel traction is lost with a heavy load on the FEL. THAT was my reasoning (and why I posted the acronym “IMO” in my earlier post.)

Anyway,,, you are correct, ... a LOT of tractor can be had if an older, simpler model is bought used but in good shape. (In fact, that’s what I did in all three of my tractor-purchasing experiences.... bought an older tractor, saving a ton of money....). It’s a tricky thing, shopping for a tractor if you’ve never owned or worked one previously.

I had a 9N which was used only for mowing an light grading, and it did well for me.... acquired for next-to-nothing because it didn’t run. $350 worth of parts a a couple days re-sleeving that engine and replacing the carb and installing an alternator....and it did the job for me for 15 years. Prior to that. I had the use of a 2-WD older John Deere with a loader.... It did good work for me but showed me how limited a loader is in soft ground without 4-WD. My latest purchase is my present 4WD M4700DT mfr’d in ‘96 with less than 400 hrs on it, and bought for $17K with a nice LA1002 Loader. It is a heavy-duty 50-ish horsepower no-emissions diesel with excellent R1 tires and competes with my wife and dog for my affection.
Yep... buy an older, clean, used tractor and let someone else take the depreciation and break it in for you and save a TON of money!

 

[JimmyJazz]

I agree to a point. But for many of the people we're talking about, they're hobby farmers or even not farmers at all, just people with a bit of land they want to play on. There are a lot of hobbies that cost a lot of money to operate. I know people with $300K boats, people who spend $4K on a set of golf clubs, and a lot of people with cars or trucks worth north of $100K that they drive a few times a year. Measured by that standard, a $30-50K tractor that you probably do get on and use every weekend is a bargain. Even more so when you figure that it's still worth $30-50K when you're done with it.

If you're trying to use it to generate income, and doing that on a hobby farm, then I agree you're dreaming. But most hobby farms are cash negative anyway - that's why they're a hobby and not a real farm. If you're farming for a living then you should operate very differently than if you're farming for fun.

Maybe your right as I don't know anyone that spends that kind of money on boats and trucks. I work for a major investment bank and live in probably the best neighborhood in Pittsburgh. Must be the market. I guess after further thought it would be ok for Brad Pitt to get a tricked out expensive Kubota for screwing off on at the hobby farm. Interestingly some of the wealthiest folks I know are among the most frugal. Folks that own multiple hotels, construction businesses, vast tracts of timberland, coal, natural gas ,multiple car dealerships.... Net worths 10,20,30 million dollars or more. None of these people would consider buying a $50,000 tractor for hobby farm use. Read The millionaire next door book. I am not being judgmental. Those are the facts from my vantage point here in Pittsburgh ,the "Paris of Appalachia".

 

[D2Cat]

Here you go, everything you need in a tractor. Nice model, Grand L, cab.. 408 hrs. It's even in Mo.

2012 Kubota 5740 HSTC - farm & garden - by owner - sale

2012 Kubota 5740 HSTC 59hp, original owner, 408 hours with loader/bucket, Landpride 72”rotary cutter & Landpride 72” box blade, pallet forks

loz.craigslist.org