First Time Tractor Buyer, Update: Deal Now Done. Thanks

[Mach'er]

Hi All. I'm a first time buyer, and though I've identified and have a handshake agreement on the tractor, I'm still looking for advice on implements. Maybe someone would be willing to read my story and offer an opinion. And, sorry, but I'm long winded.

I have never owned or operated a tractor before, but I do have 80 acres that is >90% forest, and feel the need. It is currently just our weekend and vacation destination, but will be much more in ~5-8 years.

Here's a description of the property.
We have maybe 6-7 acres of the 80 that is not wooded. Of that, there are 3 current clearings. One is the future site of our retirement home. One is where we just built our pole barn. And the third one is perfect to be a nice food plot for deer. In addition to the current clearings, there is one additional overgrown area that I'd like to clean out, and make into an additional food plot. Each of these food plot areas are about an acre each.

Our property also has dirt driveways, which are probably a total of at least 1000 feet, running from the county road to the house and barn clearings. On top of that, there is a two track type road that runs for another 1750 to 2000 feet. Finally, we have about a mile of ATV and hiking trails, with more to come.

Tractor use cases (or why I'm buying):
Clear the area for the new food plot.
Do the steps necessary for developing those two plots (work the earth, seed, tend, etc.).
Maintain the driveways and trails (including snow removal on the driveways - eventually).
Create new trails.
General forestry work, including a PTO driven chipper for maintaining the property.

The tractor we chose is a L3560 LE. It has a LA805 FEL, with the HD Round Back bucket. It is a cab, not a ROPS - so my trails are going to have to get tended to gradually to open up the canopy of the woods for passage of the cab. But - I'm in my 50's, and eventually I won't want to be out on a tractor in the winter (taking care of snow), or the summer (tilling, or whatever), without A/C or heat. Anyway, the tractor is a done deal (old school handshake and commitment), but I'm going in to finalize the actual paperwork in a few days. I've already asked for the 3rd Function valve kit to be installed, because I'd love a grapple someday - and want it to be ready.

So, here's what I'm thinking of adding to the deal initially.
+Max out wheel weights as permitted
+Box Scraper
+Chain driven forward rotation tiller
+Weight box
+Quick Hitch

I so want to also go with the wood chipper, but since I don't know prices on any of these implements yet, I'm hesitant. I'll be financing a bit. Not a large portion, but enough that this initial cost does matter.

So, what say you, the tractor folks that have been doing this for a long time? Given my use cases, am I on the right track for initial implements and additions?

Thanks all for any opinions.
Mach'er in Michigan

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Hi All. I'm a first time buyer, and though I've identified and have a handshake agreement on the tractor, I'm still looking for advice on implements. Maybe someone would be willing to read my story and offer an opinion. And, sorry, but I'm long winded.

I have never owned or operated a tractor before, but I do have 80 acres that is >90% forest, and feel the need. It is currently just our weekend and vacation destination, but will be much more in ~5-8 years.

Here's a description of the property.
We have maybe 6-7 acres of the 80 that is not wooded. Of that, there are 3 current clearings. One is the future site of our retirement home. One is where we just built our pole barn. And the third one is perfect to be a nice food plot for deer. In addition to the current clearings, there is one additional overgrown area that I'd like to clean out, and make into an additional food plot. Each of these food plot areas are about an acre each.

Our property also has dirt driveways, which are probably a total of at least 1000 feet, running from the county road to the house and barn clearings. On top of that, there is a two track type road that runs for another 1750 to 2000 feet. Finally, we have about a mile of ATV and hiking trails, with more to come.

Tractor use cases (or why I'm buying):
Clear the area for the new food plot.
Do the steps necessary for developing those two plots (work the earth, seed, tend, etc.).
Maintain the driveways and trails (including snow removal on the driveways - eventually).
Create new trails.
General forestry work, including a PTO driven chipper for maintaining the property.

The tractor we chose is a L3560 LE. It has a LA805 FEL, with the HD Round Back bucket. It is a cab, not a ROPS - so my trails are going to have to get tended to gradually to open up the canopy of the woods for passage of the cab. But - I'm in my 50's, and eventually I won't want to be out on a tractor in the winter (taking care of snow), or the summer (tilling, or whatever), without A/C or heat. Anyway, the tractor is a done deal (old school handshake and commitment), but I'm going in to finalize the actual paperwork in a few days. I've already asked for the 3rd Function valve kit to be installed, because I'd love a grapple someday - and want it to be ready.

So, here's what I'm thinking of adding to the deal initially.
+Max out wheel weights as permitted
+Box Scraper
+Chain driven forward rotation tiller
+Weight box
+Quick Hitch

I so want to also go with the wood chipper, but since I don't know prices on any of these implements yet, I'm hesitant. I'll be financing a bit. Not a large portion, but enough that this initial cost does matter.

So, what say you, the tractor folks that have been doing this for a long time? Given my use cases, am I on the right track for initial implements and additions?

Thanks all for any opinions.
Mach'er in Michigan

Is the FEL SSQA?

 

[Mach'er]

Is the FEL SSQA?

Yup. That's already on there. Forgot to mention it.

 

[DVR]

get the cruise control switch.
I have a L3560LE cab. You'll love it.

 

[forky]

I would personally skip the wheel weights and simply add rimguard ballast to the tires being mostly wooded. Just a thought to check out.

 

[je1279]

Your call but you can save a substantial amount by purchasing the quick hitch and ballast box through a 3rd party such as Titan. Filling the rear tires is substantially less expensive than wheel weights also. Only downfall is if you puncture them you will need to have them refilled. Maybe add rear remotes as well so you could add a top and tilt in the future.

 

[jimh406]

I’d strongly consider a Grapple and third function valve initially. They are super helpful for cleanup. A weight box is fine, but you have a lot of heavy attachments that you can use instead. I’d also consider Rimguard. If it’s hilly, maybe Rimguard+weights. Not all of Michigan is flat.

What tires are you going with? That can impact how much width you have and whether you should consider rear spacers or not.

I’d also consider a grader/scraper instead of a box blade. Maintaining is super simple with a grader/scraper.

Think about having the dealer add hooks to your bucket.

Since you have ATV trails, I’m assuming you can use those for the food plots. Usually much faster than a tractor since they are more stable at speed. Either way, consider a no till drill instead of a tiller. Look up no till drill or even a drill is better than tilling in many people’s opinion. You can easily use a box blade or grader/scraper to remove most vegetation without losing soil or bringing weeds to the surface. For deer, growingdeer.tv on youtube describes a method without tilling.

Have fun!

 

[PaulL]

I'd question the chipper. You have a lot of woods, you're not going to clear all the windfall. So get a grapple instead, and use it to push all the branches etc into the woods somewhere - it'll just be more windfall to go with whatever's already there.

Attempting to chip everything will drive you mad - I do it but I have 1 acre and I can't burn or pile up my branches. Unless you particularly want the mulch from the chipper for something.

 

[Bmyers]

If you think that some day you may want a T&T, this is the time to have rear remotes put on.

 

[BAP]

As others pointed out, get the rear remotes installed now. Eventually you will have a use for them. Quick hitch and either a weight box or box blade for more counter weight.

 

[MNVikingsGuy]

I am in a similar situation. I ended up with the LX3310 ROPS due to the smaller footprint for heavy trail use. I think the biggest initial purchase option question for you is do you want the mid-pto option for future snowblowing and underbelly mower. This is not a feature you can add later. I had no interest in underbelly mower, but the snowblower was a must have for me.

Implements I have found super useful direct from the dealer - kubota 3rd function + landpride grapple; kubota commmercial front mount snowblower; landpride box blade; generic SSQA forks.

Separately, some useful things to buy third party:

Betstco flail mower for clearings (or many prefer brushhog style mower);
Heavy hitch for rear ballast + back blade
Pat's Easy Change rear 3 point kit (rather than quick hitch - lots of good youtube videos comparing the two)
Woodlandmills 6" wood chipper
Woodlandmills Stump grinder
Fransguard log winch
Famco pto sprayer

 

[Creature Meadow]

As mentioned front and rear remotes.

Agree loaded tires use money from the wheel weights for something else.

While at dealer buying the tractor may be good time to pick up supplies for first service. Just may discount them nicely!

Rear ballast can use the box blade and if desired weld on a bracket to it to hang some tractor weights you may can find that a farmer has that is not using them. take them on and off as needed.

Eventually get some hooks added to your bucket.

Give her a good waxing before getting it dirty, goes along ways keeping it clean going forward.

Pick up some grease if you don't have any, and a lock-n-lube adapter.

Tiller, I love my disk as I have found the tiller really chops up my soil too much and leaves it "fluffy" not allowing water to penetrate. The disk for me is more versatile. I can prep plots and garden nicely changing angle of the gangs. Sow seed like wheat and oats then lightly cover, can't with a tiller. I carry just the disk to my lease, disk, plant and cover, move from plot to plot.

Pallet forks never thought I would use them and now have them, stay on tractor about more than the bucket. Drill hole in the ends of the forks and can add a ball to move trailers around, easy off and on when not needed.

Best of luck.
Jay

 

[old and tired]

Well, everyone else covered what I thought... no need for chipper or weight box (I have 4 piles on 28 acres and I'm surprised how fast they break down. I have a chipper but I need to go ahead and sell it... it makes very expensive chips in terms of time.

Get T-N-T (hydraulic top link and side link), which is plugged into rear remotes. You said that you would like to stay in the seat, t-N-t allows that to happen!!

What tires? If you get R4's you might as well get chains, too

 

[MNVikingsGuy]

Worth subscribing to Messicks, GP Outdoors and TractorMike on Youtube. Lot's of great first time tractor owner info.

 

[swpflipper]

Top n tilt and 3 rear remotes. Makes using the rear back blade so much nicer. Even hooking up with the quick hitch.
The box blade is a super handy tool.
Sounds like a very nice tractor.

 

[Mach'er]

Wow, thanks for all the replies. That's a surprising amount of help.

@DVR : Thanks, the cruise control switch is on the list.

@forky, @je1279, and @jimh406 : Fluid rather than wheel weights. Check. And, if it goes that way, I'd scrub the plan for a weight box. Sounds like Rim Guard is the way to go, but I'll have to see what my dealer does for liquid ballast in the tires. But, you've all convinced me it's better value than wheel weights.

@je1279, @Bmyers, @BAP, @swpflipper : Rear remotes & Top and Tilt (T-n-T)... As a giant AC/DC fan, TNT sounds good to me. I'm adding it to the "want" list, but don't know if it will make the final cut.

@jimh406, @MNVikingsGuy, @PaulL, @old and tired : I already told the dealer I wanted the third function valve. But it sounds like there's a strong opinion that a grapple is a better choice now than the chipper. I like that opinion, but I'm going to price 'em out.

@Creature Meadow : I've been looking at a nice disk harrow. I might do that instead of a tiller. Now I've got homework before I go in Saturday morning to make up my mind.

@MNVikingsGuy : I'd been looking at the Pat's Easy Change. I think I may go that way. I probably need to watch a few more YouTube videos...

Lastly on the Mid-PTO... I hadn't heard that it cannot be added later. Is that true? I definitely want & need it to run a front mounted snowblower someday. I'm not getting the snowblower now. But I will get the Mid-PTO now if it is required to do so.

This is giving me a ton to think about and informing/influencing my decision making. I'm still getting the box blade, but some of the other items are either nixed or being re-thought. But, bottom line, I think this is going to be an awesome tractor, and give me a supremely capable tool to do the tasks I have ahead of me. You all are offering up opinions on how I can make that tool even better. Love it.

Thanks.

 

[Bmyers]

Good luck with your choice. I know I really like my L3560 and it has and is serving us well.

 

[random]

@Mach'er just for a different perspective on the tiller/harrow, I found that the harrow didn't break things up near enough so after 2 seasons I ended up getting a tiller instead. But I won't argue @Creature Meadow 's points.

If you decide to go with a disk harrow, I suggest a plow as well, for those spots you want more broken up than the harrow alone can do.

 

[GeraldVG]

You might consider
1: Brush Crusher grapple that doesn't require hydraulics (Westendorf Mfg--

) That might alter the go-no-go decision about the 3d function
2: Having the top of the bucket reinforced with a square tube before the chain hooks are installed. (I've bent, cracked and nearly pulled the welded on hooks off the top of my New Holland 3930.
#3. LED work light bulb replacement for the stock halogens
#4. Pat's quick hitch adapters for the load arms instead of standard quick hitch (particularly if you have any idea of picking up used implements since many of them have non-spec connection widths)
#5. Pallet forks
#6. Loader frame-mounted welded 30 cal. ammo box rack (to replace cheap plastic OEM ?tool box? {surprising how bad they are coming as a part of such an expensive and roughly used machine})
#7. Steering wheel "wrist breaker" knob (cheap and easy for your dealer to throw in)
#8. Manufacturer's hat (after all, you will be advertising his products (another easy dealer "gimme")
#9. Wheel extenders (added stability)
#10. Replaceable seat cover (they invariably get greasy-grimy, dirty, split and/or cut over the years)
#11. Level bucket (or other loader implement) indicator

Separately, some useful things to buy 3d party:
#1. Back-up and/or forward-looking camera with as large a monitor as you can accommodate
#2. Long-handled tool rack (ie. gun rack like)
#3. Chainsaw scabbard
#4. Plumbing test plugs to use the loader tubes for accessible storage (chains & straps)
#5. Piranha bolt-on bucket lip
#6. Some accommodation for a cooler
#7. Tire Chains (particularly if you opt for R4's or H Dap tires and plan on working snow, ice and/or soft mud)
#8. SS insulated coffee cup (that fits in the cab's cup holder(s))
#9. Power washer w/soap injector
#10 Complete set of Wix filters
#11 Good quality grease gun
#12. Set of combination and socket wrenches up to and including the largest bolt head and nut on your machine (if you plan on doing much of your own maintenance)
#13. Long neck funnel
#14. Filter wrench(s)
#15. Touch-up paint


Some of the helpful youtube URL's I've found in my research:
No code has to be inserted here.

Give the TV, sports, Facebook, and politics over to Mama and watch the hundreds of youtubes available on tractors. Most TV isn't worth the time or aggravation now, anyway. ;-)


Good luck and have fun putting it all together

 

[bird dogger]

Nobody has mentioned it yet, so I'll add this. Before you have your tractor delivered or even better when you sign for it: Have a new empty thumb drive with you so the dealer can provide a digital copy of all the manuals and especially the WSM (Shop Service Manual) for your new tractor. The WSM will be invaluable to you later when you need to trouble shoot a problem or just want to do maintenance, check wiring, add something, etc., etc.