Field Borders?

LarryBud

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Hi Folks,

I'm rehabbing an overgrown piece of property. I've spent much of the past year beating back brush & overgrowth.

I have a 10 acre hay field which will be put into pollinator habitat this winter. I wondering what a good fence to field border would be? I have a 60" rotary mower which is what I plan on using for ongoing maintenance ( although a finish / flail mower is on my shopping list ).

I thinking about 10' / two laps. Make sense? I'll killing off the fescue hay field this fall, spray the border too or leave it in fescue?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Elliott in GA

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I have reclaimed a smaller field (2.5-3 acres) this year. I used my: 60 inch rotary cutter, grapple and spreader (weed & feed and insecticide). I still make two passes around the perimeter with the rotary cutter and over a couple of rough areas. However, I have been using the finish mower for 85%+ for a couple of months, and it is a pleasure to use in terms of mowing and look of the field. Since you already have a rotary cutter, I would suggest the finish mower as the next implement.
 
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hedgerow

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Hi Folks,

I'm rehabbing an overgrown piece of property. I've spent much of the past year beating back brush & overgrowth.

I have a 10 acre hay field which will be put into pollinator habitat this winter. I wondering what a good fence to field border would be? I have a 60" rotary mower which is what I plan on using for ongoing maintenance ( although a finish / flail mower is on my shopping list ).

I thinking about 10' / two laps. Make sense? I'll killing off the fescue hay field this fall, spray the border too or leave it in fescue?

Thanks in advance.
If it was me I would leave the fescue twenty or thirty foot around the edge of the field and mow it with your rotary mower. I sure wouldn't put up a fence if you don't need one. We mow with a batwing mower around all our fields and have removed any fence that is not pasture fence. I get tired of keeping trees out of the fence lines. We put up electric wire in the fall after harvest to pasture the corn stocks. Then remove it late winter or spring.
 

ken erickson

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Hi Folks,

I'm rehabbing an overgrown piece of property. I've spent much of the past year beating back brush & overgrowth.

I have a 10 acre hay field which will be put into pollinator habitat this winter. I wondering what a good fence to field border would be? I have a 60" rotary mower which is what I plan on using for ongoing maintenance ( although a finish / flail mower is on my shopping list ).

I thinking about 10' / two laps. Make sense? I'll killing off the fescue hay field this fall, spray the border too or leave it in fescue?

Thanks in advance.

Since you mentioned that you will be planting pollinator species have you talked with anyone about the possibility of conducting prescribed burns? if so, you might want to get specific advice on your borders from the fence to the native planting. Very often these boarders will act as your fire breaks.
My native plantings do not lend themselves at this time to the huge benefits of prescribed burns but I do mow my boarders at least 8 foot wide with 10 in spots. I drive them often enough I end up with two tracks.
 
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BruceP

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A fence costs money and time to put it up.... then you have to maintain it.
If a fence is not needed, consider alternatives.
 
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LarryBud

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Cleveland, MO
Thanks Folks,

I have a tree / brush infested fence on all 4 sides. Two will need to stay for now but the other two on the interior of my property are candidates for removal. That’s if I get the motivation.

it’s going to get a dose or two of Glyphosate this fall and I’m wondering if I should spray fence to fence or leave a border in fescue. I suppose I could spray it and still mow a border. I am worried about the fescue spreading into the field.
 

ken erickson

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Deleted as LarryBud clarified as I was typing. 😀👍

LarryBud,
I am curious, have you decided on a pollinator seed mix yet? If so, how diverse is it?
Will you be frost seeding it or will you "drill" the seed late fall before the ground freezes?
When I applied herbicide to kill off "cool season" grasses and invasive species before seeding it was recommended to me I might want to consider planting white clover on my borders and trail system.

If I had to guess your going to have fescue show up again depending on how many herbicide rounds you go thru. Mine went thru two rounds. But the idea with native pollinator species is that hopefully when they get established they will out compete the fescue etc.
 
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Russell King

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Uhhh
Why do you want a border around a field? Please explain what purpose they serve
 

jimh406

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Uhhh
Why do you want a border around a field? Please explain what purpose they serve
I can think of a few reasons. Maybe obvious, you don’t have to mow right next to a fence which in some cases isn’t easy. It leaves an area for cover for wildlife. It makes a terrain break for water, wind, etc if the area is prone to extreme wind/flooding. It leaves an area to add pesticides without exposing the entire field. It is screening for wildlife so that they can feed in the field and still have some protection. It is screening for neighbors, so they can’t see the wildlife. I probably left some out.
 

LarryBud

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Deleted as LarryBud clarified as I was typing. 😀👍

LarryBud,
I am curious, have you decided on a pollinator seed mix yet? If so, how diverse is it?
Will you be frost seeding it or will you "drill" the seed late fall before the ground freezes?
When I applied herbicide to kill off "cool season" grasses and invasive species before seeding it was recommended to me I might want to consider planting white clover on my borders and trail system.

If I had to guess your going to have fescue show up again depending on how many herbicide rounds you go thru. Mine went thru two rounds. But the idea with native pollinator species is that hopefully when they get established they will out compete the fescue etc.
The pollinator mix will have 35 different forbes and grasses. It's a mandated recipe for my part of the country. I have a 3-4 places from it can be purchased.

I have the option of drilling or broadcasting it but it must go in between Nov, 15 and March 15.

My current concern is taking out the fescue which from what I read, does not go down easy. White clover ma be an option. I'll take a look.
 

LarryBud

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Uhhh
Why do you want a border around a field? Please explain what purpose they serve
It's common practice in these parts to have an occasionally mowed boarder around a field thats are not row crop. You do make a good point. Why? My immediate thoughts:

Provide a travel corridor for me
Allow fence line maintenance
Keep invasive species from entering the field

You do have me thinking about planting fence to fence and just traveling through the field to do the above.
 
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Russell King

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It's common practice in these parts to have an occasionally mowed boarder around a field thats are not row crop. You do make a good point. Why? My immediate thoughts:

Provide a travel corridor for me
Allow fence line maintenance
Keep invasive species from entering the field

You do have me thinking about planting fence to fence and just traveling through the field to do the above.
I will have to notice that when I visit Missouri.

And don’t go against the grain or the local people will think you’re odd!

I guess I understand the need for borders if you’re continually having to fight back tress and allow sun onto all the cultivated crops.

Thank you for the feedback
 

SDT

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Hi Folks,

I'm rehabbing an overgrown piece of property. I've spent much of the past year beating back brush & overgrowth.

I have a 10 acre hay field which will be put into pollinator habitat this winter. I wondering what a good fence to field border would be? I have a 60" rotary mower which is what I plan on using for ongoing maintenance ( although a finish / flail mower is on my shopping list ).

I thinking about 10' / two laps. Make sense? I'll killing off the fescue hay field this fall, spray the border too or leave it in fescue?

Thanks in advance.
I border all productive areas with a single lap of my 72" rotary cutter.

Every 2 or 3 years, I trim overhangs with chain/pole saw.

Yes, it's a lot of work.

SDT
 

johnjk

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I have field borders cut around my back 5 acres of field that I also use for pollinators.
Two reasons I did it was to be able to walk the perimeter and second was for tick control. I cut 8’ in to the field from the tree line and it really helps with knocking back the tick population in the field. I also do a late spring spray of Permethrin around the field perimeter and house. I’d be interested in knowing where you get your wildflower seed mix and if they customize the blend for different areas
 
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Creature Meadow

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It's common practice in these parts to have an occasionally mowed boarder around a field thats are not row crop. You do make a good point. Why? My immediate thoughts:

Provide a travel corridor for me
Allow fence line maintenance
Keep invasive species from entering the field

You do have me thinking about planting fence to fence and just traveling through the field to do the above.
At my deer lease 100 acres is field, very hilly so a lot of edges. The farmer plants edge to edge! I discussed with him why he did this, no till planting all the roads and to the wood line every year. Only for me to spend 8 to 10 hours cutting down a 8' wide path around the edges and 2 paths across the field so we can access the woods for hunting.

His response, my planter is 28 rows wide, just easier to plant it all than to have to pick up and drop going over the roads and same with edges. Just easier it is for him a days work for me!

So, this weekend I will cut for 8 to 10 hours of 3' tall soybeans so we can hunt the property.

Near my garden the edges over time were actually hanging over it when in reality based on the trunks of the bushes and tress should have been 10' to 20' back in most places. I cut them back and subsoil the garden perimeter twice a year to cut roots that try and grow into the garden robbing moisture and fertilizer from my crops.

Good day all!

Jay
 

LarryBud

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Cleveland, MO
I have field borders cut around my back 5 acres of field that I also use for pollinators.
Two reasons I did it was to be able to walk the perimeter and second was for tick control. I cut 8’ in to the field from the tree line and it really helps with knocking back the tick population in the field. I also do a late spring spray of Permethrin around the field perimeter and house. I’d be interested in knowing where you get your wildflower seed mix and if they customize the blend for different areas
Good point on tick control. I like the idea of being able to patrol the perimeter but we'll see how it goes.

Seed Mix:

I have sent my NRCS Planting Job Sheet to three different seed vendors here in MO. I'm told my requested mix is customized to my property, going into a former fescue hay field and offering best chance of survival for my terrain which is a nice laying field with good soils.

I'll admit, I'm worried about the fescue coming back or encroaching from the edges ( another reason I may plant a border with clover or something ). It's an amazingly aggressive grass.
 
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johnjk

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Good point on tick control. I like the idea of being able to patrol the perimeter but we'll see how it goes.

Seed Mix:

I have sent my NRCS Planting Job Sheet to three different seed vendors here in MO. I'm told my requested mix is customized to my property, going into a former fescue hay field and offering best chance of survival for my terrain which is a nice laying field with good soils.

I'll admit, I'm worried about the fescue coming back or encroaching from the edges ( another reason I may plant a border with clover or something ). It's an amazingly aggressive grass.
I plan on reaching out to ODNR and my local Farm Bureau to see what they recommend. The back 5 has not been farmed for over 10 yrs. nothing too defined other than blackberries and field olives. I actively rip the olives out with my tooth bar when I see them. Will you till and sees or just broadcast and see what happens?
 

D2Cat

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Larry, how about mowing around the perimeter of the field a couple of passes with you mower set as low as possible to not hit dirt. This will eliminate fuel to control a burn. Then burn the field off. Then plant your seed.
 
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Creature Meadow

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Fire is an awesome tool when used in the right situation, I use it to control a number of invasive species in some of my wood lots.

I always have fire breaks and back burn into the wind.

Sounds like this would be a good fit for it.

Create the fire breaks around it and some through it then burn it. I like to set a fire maybe 100' from my break, burn to the break then back up and burn to the burned area. Burning into the wind keeps the fire small and manageable.

Best of luck.

Jay