FEL 3rd function, top n tilt

[st8yd]

I have an 2003 L3130 HST.
I want to make a grapple for the bucket and pallet forks, also want top n tilt, and also have auxiliary for 3pt attachment if I ever need one such as back hoe attachment.

Does doing any one of these make it easier to do it all while doing it? In other words I don't want to do one thing and find out later I should've done it different to allow for the other while I was there.
I would likely do top n tilt first, at this time should 3pt aux be done or not.
next would be the 3rd function for FEL, that would operate anything available, not just the grapple. (ie. tree shear, or brush cutter. I don't have immediate plans for either, but you never know what the future holds, don't want to do it for something minimal when it was just about as easy to do it for the max while your there.)

I can likely fabricate any brackets needed, but I would also just as soon get a basic kit if it sped things along and not over priced.
Or is it easier to source through Kubota?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I have an 2003 L3130 HST.
I want to make a grapple for the bucket and pallet forks, top n tilt, and have auxiliary for 3pt attachment if I ever need one.

Does doing any one of these make it easier to do it all while doing it?
I can likely fabricate any brackets needed, but I would also just as soon get a basic kit if it sped things along and not over priced.
Or is it easier to source through Kubota?

Thanks,
Jim

I'm a little confused?
Are you wanting to add 3rd function and top and tilt for the three point at the same time?

As they are both hydraulic yet they are completely differently controlled.

The 3rd function is a electric solenoid operated valve, where top and tilt is 2 mechanical valves.

The electric solenoid valve you can get either from Kubota or probably cheaper aftermarket.

Top and tilt for a tractor of your vintage is going to be hard to impossible to get a stock setup for it, but there are many options for aftermarket / DIY setups.

 

[eserv]

I'm a little confused?
Are you wanting to add 3rd function and top and tilt for the three point at the same time?

As they are both hydraulic yet they are completely differently controlled.

The 3rd function is a electric solenoid operated valve, where top and tilt is 2 mechanical valves.

The electric solenoid valve you can get either from Kubota or probably cheaper aftermarket.

Top and tilt for a tractor of your vintage is going to be hard to impossible to get a stock setup for it, but there are many options for aftermarket / DIY setups.

I have seen people use a rear remote to operate a grapple. Must be awkward to use but it would be functional.

 

[BigG]

I ran my grapple with 2 hydro lines that ran from the back of the tractor. There were 2 problems with the setup. The minor problem was moving the hand from the FEL valve to the valve to open/close the grapple. After getting my new tractor with a 3rd function on the FEL valve it really is not that big of an advantage. The major problem was damaging the hydro lines as they run up to the front of the tractor. Tying them as close to and through the frame did not prevent them from getting ripped off 2 times. And hoses that long were $$$$.

 

[st8yd]

I want it all. LOL edited first post to be a little less confusing, hopefully)

I don't want to short change myself on any of it. But I don't want to just blow money.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I have seen people use a rear remote to operate a grapple. Must be awkward to use but it would be functional.

Me...

How I angle my snowplow. Not at all awkward as my rear remote controls are right under my right elbow behind the main shift lever. Of course I do have 3 sets of rear remotes so I use the top set for the '3rd function' set on the FEL.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I ran my grapple with 2 hydro lines that ran from the back of the tractor. There were 2 problems with the setup. The minor problem was moving the hand from the FEL valve to the valve to open/close the grapple. After getting my new tractor with a 3rd function on the FEL valve it really is not that big of an advantage. The major problem was damaging the hydro lines as they run up to the front of the tractor. Tying them as close to and through the frame did not prevent them from getting ripped off 2 times. And hoses that long were $$$$.

I hardlined mine.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

OK, humour an old guy...
what 'top n tilt' mean ?

 

[RCW]

Jay - hydraulically adjustable top- and side-links.

Our member Mt.ViewRanch builds them, but you need the remotes to work them.

https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/index.html

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Thanks ! After a year +, I've yet to remove the BH off my BX23S, still have the 3PT kit in the box,as all the hevy work is done with my D-14, though I can see how all the hydraulics could be useful.

 

[RCW]

Jay - - just keep in mind that box of parts is $1k+ USD easy.....keep track of it. [emoji3]
We’ve seen so many with BX TLB’s that are looking for those 3PH parts as they get lost/separated over time.
The ones at TSC or other on-line outlets are pretty flimsy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[st8yd]

I hate to read threads that don't follow thru so here is the follow up.
Thru conversation with Brian at FitRite he recommended doing 3 rear remotes, one electric for the grapple, which could be disconnected if needed to use in the rear for an implement. A floating valve for the top cylinder and floating for the side link. Thank you Brian.

I would have ordered this (and should have) from Brian last year when I first talked to him about it but I couldn't wait 20 wks, so I was going to do it myself, spent time on research, got busy, didn't do it and now a year later I need to do it before the next job comes, and Brian is 30wks.
Had I just ordered it last year when he quoted me It would've done been done!
So my recommendation if your on the fence about is put your order in with Brian now, as he's 30 wks out. I doubt his list isn't getting shorter.

I've got most of my parts in the floating valves won't be in for a few months so I ordered a couple others for temporary use in order to get up and going now. Cash out of pocket I may come out a little less. But if I calculated the time alone spent on research and shopping parts, It's way way over! That don't count time it will take to put the parts together that Brian does, welding the cylinders for the right size, making up hoses to fit from valves to qd's, making brackets, painting cylinders and valves, etc.

 

[st8yd]

With that said I am hoping someone can confirm my plumbing on this. Thanks

 

[TheOldHokie]

With that said I am hoping someone can confirm my plumbing on this. Thanks

View attachment 66617

That's correct. Here is a "plug and play" tee for the tank return. That hydraulic block is more exposed than I like and a tee increases the exposure so I put mine up on the loader valve. You can ignore that loose hose down by the outlet block.. It is something else I am working on right now and I didn't notice it when I took the picture.

Is that drawing of a sectional the valve you are adding and if so what make/model?

Dan

 

[st8yd]

Thanks Dan, That's a good idea the pics I had seen of the T down on the block that was my first thought of it getting hit or something hung on it, as I have done a lot of stuff in the woods with it. it's a little tighter up at the fel controls but I can probably do it fine.

I'm using bucher valves and I cut and pasted their drawings together to get the concept.

 

[st8yd]

Although I am contemplating turning them upright and putting the qd's directly to the valve to avoid doing all the little short hoses to get to the qd's. But I need to find out if there are some kind of offsets I can put on the ports as they are to close together for the quick disconnects.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Yes sir, you have the plumbing routed correctly.

If you use a tee that has the female swivel at the center, it does not stick out any further than the 90 that is currently there.
If you use a tube 90 on the left of the tee, you can route the hose up behind the filter and have it tucked up out of harms way.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Although I am contemplating turning them upright and putting the qd's directly to the valve to avoid doing all the little short hoses to get to the qd's. But I need to find out if there are some kind of offsets I can put on the ports as they are to close together for the quick disconnects.

Use 1/4" couplers, they work fine as long as you are not using anything for a constant fluid supply.

 

[st8yd]

Thank you Brian.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks Dan, That's a good idea the pics I had seen of the T down on the block that was my first thought of it getting hit or something hung on it, as I have done a lot of stuff in the woods with it. it's a little tighter up at the fel controls but I can probably do it fine.

I'm using bucher valves and I cut and pasted their drawings together to get the concept.

I thought I recognized the drawing - I am using Bucher as well.

My plan is to mount mine on the side of the transmission using a custom outlet manifold like the OEM valves but bring the handles out the front. In case you haven't seen it already here is how I am mounting the push/pull outlets.. I am also adding a 4th set of outlets for power beyond for a log splitter. Don't yell - trust me I know how slow that is

Just had my first ECO yesterday - had to move the power beyond selector off the rear panel and to the fender - plumbing was too tight to make the connections to the outlets. I actually like this a little better. Couple Kubota like label's make it look a lot like OEM - would probably fool a lot of people. For now it is running off the temporary third function valve I have on the loader but ultimately it will be feed by the remotes under the seat. Got to purge the log splitter before I hook it up to test - full of nasty old oil from my venerable B7200. That is a scant 4 GPM - did I mention slow

Let me know if I can help you out.

Dan