Farm Chains
- Thread starter yankeepac
- Start date
I was thinking more along the lines if he was trying to yank and drag stuff with the tractor. A link can stretch out and bust, just ask my dad and brother who had a transport chain break on them and wrapped them both in the shins.
Just throwing a little caution to the wind with chains.
Just throwing a little caution to the wind with chains.
You'll need a snatch-hook to take up slack in the chain.
Buy two grab-hooks sized to match your chain. My suggestion in this case is to buy premium brands. One hook should have a female clevis to attach to a chain, the other hook should have an eye.
Fit the two hooks together with the eye of one hook between the ears of the clevis on the other. I make mine with the hooks facing different directions but some like the hooks facing same way.
Use a Grade-8 bolt of the largest diameter possible and make the length such that the nut when tightened down to the shank allows the hooks to swivel. Cut off the excess bolt length and peen. Don't weld Gr-8 to retain maximum strength.
You can do the same thing with three links of chain between the hooks, but you'll wish it were shorter more often than not.
Paint the snatch hook bright safety yellow or Kubota orange so you can see it and find it when dropped in tall grass or when run over and mashed into the soil.
Buy two grab-hooks sized to match your chain. My suggestion in this case is to buy premium brands. One hook should have a female clevis to attach to a chain, the other hook should have an eye.
Fit the two hooks together with the eye of one hook between the ears of the clevis on the other. I make mine with the hooks facing different directions but some like the hooks facing same way.
Use a Grade-8 bolt of the largest diameter possible and make the length such that the nut when tightened down to the shank allows the hooks to swivel. Cut off the excess bolt length and peen. Don't weld Gr-8 to retain maximum strength.
You can do the same thing with three links of chain between the hooks, but you'll wish it were shorter more often than not.
Paint the snatch hook bright safety yellow or Kubota orange so you can see it and find it when dropped in tall grass or when run over and mashed into the soil.
Look up the posts on welding hooks on buckets.
As with any lifting, always do the job like the chain will break. I am amazed at how much pull a standard small chain can take.
Another risk that may come about lifting stuff with the bucket is tractor tipping over with the load too high. It doesn't take a lot of slope to the land and some easy tipping can occur. Even though the load is near the ground, if the bucket is high, it ain't safe.
As with any lifting, always do the job like the chain will break. I am amazed at how much pull a standard small chain can take.
Another risk that may come about lifting stuff with the bucket is tractor tipping over with the load too high. It doesn't take a lot of slope to the land and some easy tipping can occur. Even though the load is near the ground, if the bucket is high, it ain't safe.
Re: Snatch Hook w/ Chains
Thanks for your interest in my post.
Don't have access at the moment to get a photo of a snatch hook we use on the place.
Use this jpg as an idea: using this clevis, just add two hooks. It will be a little different from my written description but will provide an idea how the hooks fit together.
Without the clevis, just fit the two hooks together----if you have one hook with a half-clevis and the other hook has an eye, then you're in business.
You can add a couple links of chain to keep the twisting under control when in use---or use a 'pear'- or 'D'-ring or a screw-type shackle to make any hook arrangement you want.
See websites for AWDirect or Campbell Mfg or Peerless Chain for all sorts of handy supplemental chain attachments.
When assembling, always use Grade-8 or harder bolts and make sure the hooks rotate on the bolt shank, not in the threads.
Post back how you proceed and your own ideas so we may all learn.
Thanks for your interest in my post.
Don't have access at the moment to get a photo of a snatch hook we use on the place.
Use this jpg as an idea: using this clevis, just add two hooks. It will be a little different from my written description but will provide an idea how the hooks fit together.
Without the clevis, just fit the two hooks together----if you have one hook with a half-clevis and the other hook has an eye, then you're in business.
You can add a couple links of chain to keep the twisting under control when in use---or use a 'pear'- or 'D'-ring or a screw-type shackle to make any hook arrangement you want.
See websites for AWDirect or Campbell Mfg or Peerless Chain for all sorts of handy supplemental chain attachments.
When assembling, always use Grade-8 or harder bolts and make sure the hooks rotate on the bolt shank, not in the threads.
Post back how you proceed and your own ideas so we may all learn.
Attachments
If I didn't already have a lot of chains . . . . http://www.awdirect.com/grade-80-fa...7100-lb-wll-3-8-in-x-15-ft-8607495/clearance/
(Grade 80, 15', 3/16", grab hooks--on sale)
(Grade 80, 15', 3/16", grab hooks--on sale)
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They also have grade 70--1/2" made up chain on clearance sale:
http://www.awdirect.com/peerless-ch...ks-grade-70-1-2-in-x-15-ft-8607492/clearance/
Its more expensive than the Grade 80--3/16" I mentioned earlier.
Well why not go big or go home and get 1/2 inch Grade120 with a WLL of 17,900 pounds.
http://www.awdirect.com/grade-120-bulk-chain-9-32-in-5200-lb-wll-g12-932/bulk-chain/
http://www.awdirect.com/grade-120-bulk-chain-9-32-in-5200-lb-wll-g12-932/bulk-chain/