Fabricating Loader Sub Frame for B7100 HST

[taranakiguy]

Hi Everyone,

Just thought I'd share my progress to date with trying to fit a Second Hand Loader that I picked up for $400 NZD to my B7100 HST

The Loader was fitted to a Kubota B1-16... (A similar sized tractor to my B7100 HST) So I figured... How hard could it be to make it fit...

 

[taranakiguy]

The guy I brought the loader from decided he was going to keep the "sub frame" on his Kubota B1-16 Tractor... I took a couple of pictures and it didn't look too difficult and figured I'd get something similar made up... Pic of his sub frame attached.

 

[taranakiguy]

Upon doing a bit more research into FEL Sub-frames for B7100 Tractors I discovered that the actual sub-frames are somewhat more substantial than whats in the previous pic... Not sure what you folk think... but I wasn't too keen to mount the loader to my tractor in a similar fashion given that the sub-frame should look more like this

 

[taranakiguy]

I found a Sub-Frame for sale on a local auction site and rang the guy and asked if it fitted a B7100... I was advised it would so I purchased it and had it shipped to me... Seems it is actually a Sub-frame for a B6100 which is a shorter tractor... and I don't have the skills or equipment to stretch steel...

 

[taranakiguy]

I wanted to try and get everything mounted to the tractor using a template that would allow me to figure out the best position to mount the loader to make sure it wasn't going to catch or foul on any part of the tractor.

Soooo.... Thanks to Hassman and the pics of the sub-frame ACAD drawings he posted in this post

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22322&page=3

I set about making up a wooden template of a Sub-frame from 12mm MDF so that I could provide that to an engineer and have a Sub-Frame manufactured.


For example... I was able to figure out that the whole loader needed to be mounted 75mm further forward (than where I intended) so the the right brake pedal wouldn't foul on the Loader strut

 

[taranakiguy]

So just thought I'd ask for any feedback, thoughts or ideas on the positioning of the Loader... fabrication of the Sub-frame etc before I hand this over to an engineer to fabricate for me... Any comments welcomed and appreciated

 

[taranakiguy]

And while I'm at it...
I am looking to buy a diverter block (Kubota part # 70070-00385) That allows you to tap in to the 3 point hitch Hydraulics to run an attachment.
I've seen the detail on another OTT thread specifying the dimensions, so I could have one made, but thought I'd ask if anyone had one that they would be willing to part with.
Obviously I'd need to factor in postage to New Zealand
Thanks in advance

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Nice !! Wood is a LOT easier ( and cheaper) to 'fab up' than steel ! I cut a LOT of wood into 'structural steel' sizes to do the same thing 4-5 years ago. Wood screws are easier to remove than welds.
I took my 'wooden wonder' to a friend and 3 days later his CNC machine had made the parts AND he welded them as well for me.

 

[skeets]

I cant help you other than say Dude that is a grand idea! Please keep us posted on how this evolves.

 

[G.rid]

How about a combination of the two options.
If the B6100 sub frame is only short in 1 or 2 areas. Take your wooden set up with you to a local welder. They should be able to stretch your steel frame to the lengths of your wooden one.

 

[Lencho]

This sounds like your chance to justify buying a weldor!

 

[Yooper]

What G.rid said. Simple modification for someone with experience. You have done the hard part figuring the length with the mdf.

 

[taranakiguy]

How about a combination of the two options.
If the B6100 sub frame is only short in 1 or 2 areas. Take your wooden set up with you to a local welder. They should be able to stretch your steel frame to the lengths of your wooden one.

Thanks G.rid... Yip good option... the rear of the required subframe (where it bolts onto the rear axle would be quite difficult to cut out correctly (Unless perhaps waterjet cutting?) so I figured I'd sacrifice the purchased subframe so that this rear section can be "recycled"

The "rails" of the subframe have a "cut out' where the Brake pedal mount is... therefore to make the B6000 subframe fit with my tractor, it would have to be cut and extended at both the rear and the front... so I figured it would be easier just to start with new 4" flat bar.

 

[taranakiguy]

This sounds like your chance to justify buying a weldor!

Hey Lencho, Almost embarrassed to admit I have a welder in the garage... (I recently inherited it from my father) I just wouldn't want to trust my welding skills on a project like this!!! *makes mental note to research welding night classes.

That said... I did have to shorten the struts in the attached Pic by 130mm (the subframe on the previous tractor obviously sat a lot lower, and I wanted the additional clearance under the tractor) So... I broke out the angle grinder, cut the struts shorter, ground the original weld off the horizontal plate and plucked up the courage to tack weld the shorter strut back on to the plate...

I'm sure the engineer will take one look and shake his head!

And before you ask... Yes... It is meant to be leaning forward like that! lol

 

[taranakiguy]

What G.rid said. Simple modification for someone with experience. You have done the hard part figuring the length with the mdf.

Thanks Yooper... Just wish I had a few more tools and a bit more experience with the welder... and I'd give it a crack myself...

That said... I do intend to attempt to weld the "Bonnet Protector" that came with the B6000 subframe onto the structure that the engineer is making for me... (I figure that is more cosmetic and as such the strength of the welds will be less critical )

 

[Yooper]

Always enjoy it when fellow OTT members roll up their sleeves and get after something. Get a few pieces of scrap metal and practice welding before you attempt your project. And that grinder is your best friend. Grind the surfaces before you weld and get the metal shiny clean. And remember we are here to help if you need it. Good luck!

 

[Lencho]

Yooper has it right, start small and keep learning!

 

[taranakiguy]

Well... it's been a while but I'm back with an update

Progress since last post...

I now have an operating Front End Loader on the Tractor!!! I haven't had a chance to put it under any load yet.. but she moves up and down and seems to do all the right things.

As per my last update, I was getting an engineer to fabricate the Loader sub frame after I made a template from MDF... it took him some time to complete and I completely underestimated the time (and therefore cost) of him doing this... He charged me 22 hours to fabricate the subframe and also create a Hydraulic Diverter Block so that I could drive the loader...

Anyways... you can see from the pictures the net result... I still need to take everything back off the tractor and paint... but given the tractor is not in the prettiest of states, I'll get around to this at some point.

Things I've learned...
* Engineers are expensive
* Hydraulic Hoses and Fittings are expensive
* The Vapormatic Hydraulic Control Valve that came with the loader needed a $1 part to convert one of the outlets to power beyond port.
* The loader definitely needs a "return to tank" Line
* Make sure you get the "return to tank" and "power beyond" plumbed the right way... or else you have no 3 point linkage hydraulics (and surprised I didn't blow anything)
* Don't run the tractor out of diesel while troubleshooting why the hydraulics are not behaving correctly!
(Plus side is, I now know how to bleed the fuel system on a B7100)

 

[taranakiguy]

A few more Pics of the Plumbing.

The Return to Tank line is too short, So I will need to get a longer one made so that I can re-route it away from where it currently sits (a tripping hazard when getting on and off the tractor)

Also the return to tank connection/fitting seems to have tapered thread, so the cap won't screw all the way in... I'd like to find another solution for this

 

[taranakiguy]

And some over all pics of the tractor with the loader attached.

Seems to fit the size and look of the tractor well, I'm glad I shortened the Loader mount struts (by approx 130mm) otherwise I feel the loader would have sat far too high.

The cross brace the sits above the bonnet, is a pain as it needs to be removed to lift the bonnet, wondering if this can be removed without affecting the integrity of the loader???

A video of it operating is here:

https://youtu.be/zLCeqS5V_WE