I know this is an old post but thought I’d add something in case it comes up in a search by a person with the issue. My RTV 1140CPX had the same issue. Eventually found that the rear brake pistons, located in the rear brake cylinders on each side of the transmission, had weak return springs and so the pistons weren’t returning fully to disengage (they are visible when brake is applied and return into the master cylinder almost completely upon brake pedal or parking brake release). This puts a load on the engine similar to hauling overweight, stressing and overheating the engine. Try putting new springs on if you see the pistons not fully returning when cycling the brake on and off. Also check the parking brake cable tension is correct.
Engine overheat??? Rtv1140cpx
- Thread starter Phil P
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Wow, I can understand the OPs' frustration ! While I don't know the machine, it 'seems' that the cooling system is 'marginal, as one pointed out a 'compromise'...good enough for most applications.
I'd be intested in knowing the HP and size of the rad, compare them to similar rigs. Say it's 25HP, and 120 sq in of rad. Do other 25HP engines have bigger rads or same size ? We KNOW air flow to rad is important, so maybe some shrouding can be added to compensate for the 'marginal' design.
i KNOW about 'head office' not helping. I'm convinced I know more about Nissan electronics than all of Nissan Canada. They're 'mariginal' design has caused a LOT of problems in my wife's 2019 Nissan with only 3,000 miles on it.
sigh....
I'd be intested in knowing the HP and size of the rad, compare them to similar rigs. Say it's 25HP, and 120 sq in of rad. Do other 25HP engines have bigger rads or same size ? We KNOW air flow to rad is important, so maybe some shrouding can be added to compensate for the 'marginal' design.
i KNOW about 'head office' not helping. I'm convinced I know more about Nissan electronics than all of Nissan Canada. They're 'mariginal' design has caused a LOT of problems in my wife's 2019 Nissan with only 3,000 miles on it.
sigh....
Ditto: I have been pro orange for 4 decades. RTV 1140: I'm on my 2nd cooling fan with 250hrs on the machine. Yes, I verified sensor, relay, etc....clearly the fan both times with an intermittent no run condition. Verified with power probe; I'm not buying the whole assembly again ($400+); So I'm seeking an aftermarket fan only.
2nd to that: I have an L5740 tractor; if you don't blow every shred of dirt out of radiators and screens, and try to work the tractor (like it should have been built to work) you will overheat it. So bushhogging a field on a summer day, be prepared to blow out the front end a few times.
The product has just gone downhill as have many others. But I agree with you in the fact that the cooling system(s) in orange machines is poorly engineered for minimal work.
I'm shopping for a new tractor and I plan to study the coolant capacity vs the horsepower rating.
2nd to that: I have an L5740 tractor; if you don't blow every shred of dirt out of radiators and screens, and try to work the tractor (like it should have been built to work) you will overheat it. So bushhogging a field on a summer day, be prepared to blow out the front end a few times.
The product has just gone downhill as have many others. But I agree with you in the fact that the cooling system(s) in orange machines is poorly engineered for minimal work.
I'm shopping for a new tractor and I plan to study the coolant capacity vs the horsepower rating.
there was statement made that diesel engines "run cool".
There is some truth to that.
'however', I'll elaborate. They do in fact run cooler than a gas counterpart, until they're loaded. Diesel engines are often under full load at rated engine rpm. At those conditions, they run a bit hotter than a gas burner does with the same horsepower. Load makes heat.
When you get into "they should have designed it better", they did design the systems to work in most applications. In the case of the 5740, you can't physically fit a larger radiator into where it needs to be so that issue is a non-issue. In almost all "overheat' situations, there is usually more to the story. A lot of times people neglect their cooling system servicing. In other words, the condenser, hyd oil cooler or intercooler in front of the radiator might get dirty and we'll warsh it out, but won't get deep enough to clear the radiator itself. Yamaha Rhino is a great example--oil cooler in front, can't get to that part of the radiator and the cooler MUST be removed in order to get the radiator clean enough. Overheating is gonna happen in that case. L5740, if it has a cab, it'll have an oil cooler and a a/c condenser in front of the radiator, both of which block access to the radiator itself. The condenser can be removed, at least partially, to get better access. Maintenance does not end at that point. Remember coolant does wear out and people never (or should I say, very rarely) actually flush/change the coolant on schedule, unless there is some kind of problem. In the case of RTV's, I've had to go in and actually manually remove the scale from the steam holes in the block on a lot of them because they get plugged up due to lack of cooling system maintenance. I'm doing one now actually. This one needs a radiator, head gasket, thermostat, water pump, and of course a good cleaning of the block & head....all of which would have been preventable if the system was serviced per the manual. $20 worth of coolant would have saved $1500, but people never think about that. Cooling system, brake system, and transmissions are the most neglected parts of a lot of equipment; IMO because on cars, we're "told" that it doesn't need to be serviced until 100,000 miles or more. But if you do it beforehand, the car will last a LOT longer (usually), much the same as tractors will last a lot longer with some maintenance. Tractors, mowers, and RTV's are not cars. They operate in DIRT and at completely different loads, as such they require totally different maintenance schedules. Tractors, mowers, and RTV's are also not big trucks although some of us seem to think our little D1105 is a big truck engine sometimes....
Then you get a few guys who say "don't wash out the radiator, blow it out". Fine, if you know you get all of it cleaned out. I use water, have for years. It works. Let it dry out, which doesn't take very long, before putting it back in the field. Water hose gets almost all the stuff out assuming access is clear.
Then the BX guys. BX radiator is mounted behind the engine mid ship. It's got a screen. The screen gets plugged and people pull the screen and clean it which is good. But often fail to clean out the radiator too. "Poor design" is what people say, in order to pass the blame elsewhere, often away from their own ignorance. G series mowers are similar design, seen lots and lots of BX's and G's with bad engines because of this. I have one that was a victim.
There is some truth to that.
'however', I'll elaborate. They do in fact run cooler than a gas counterpart, until they're loaded. Diesel engines are often under full load at rated engine rpm. At those conditions, they run a bit hotter than a gas burner does with the same horsepower. Load makes heat.
When you get into "they should have designed it better", they did design the systems to work in most applications. In the case of the 5740, you can't physically fit a larger radiator into where it needs to be so that issue is a non-issue. In almost all "overheat' situations, there is usually more to the story. A lot of times people neglect their cooling system servicing. In other words, the condenser, hyd oil cooler or intercooler in front of the radiator might get dirty and we'll warsh it out, but won't get deep enough to clear the radiator itself. Yamaha Rhino is a great example--oil cooler in front, can't get to that part of the radiator and the cooler MUST be removed in order to get the radiator clean enough. Overheating is gonna happen in that case. L5740, if it has a cab, it'll have an oil cooler and a a/c condenser in front of the radiator, both of which block access to the radiator itself. The condenser can be removed, at least partially, to get better access. Maintenance does not end at that point. Remember coolant does wear out and people never (or should I say, very rarely) actually flush/change the coolant on schedule, unless there is some kind of problem. In the case of RTV's, I've had to go in and actually manually remove the scale from the steam holes in the block on a lot of them because they get plugged up due to lack of cooling system maintenance. I'm doing one now actually. This one needs a radiator, head gasket, thermostat, water pump, and of course a good cleaning of the block & head....all of which would have been preventable if the system was serviced per the manual. $20 worth of coolant would have saved $1500, but people never think about that. Cooling system, brake system, and transmissions are the most neglected parts of a lot of equipment; IMO because on cars, we're "told" that it doesn't need to be serviced until 100,000 miles or more. But if you do it beforehand, the car will last a LOT longer (usually), much the same as tractors will last a lot longer with some maintenance. Tractors, mowers, and RTV's are not cars. They operate in DIRT and at completely different loads, as such they require totally different maintenance schedules. Tractors, mowers, and RTV's are also not big trucks although some of us seem to think our little D1105 is a big truck engine sometimes....
Then you get a few guys who say "don't wash out the radiator, blow it out". Fine, if you know you get all of it cleaned out. I use water, have for years. It works. Let it dry out, which doesn't take very long, before putting it back in the field. Water hose gets almost all the stuff out assuming access is clear.
Then the BX guys. BX radiator is mounted behind the engine mid ship. It's got a screen. The screen gets plugged and people pull the screen and clean it which is good. But often fail to clean out the radiator too. "Poor design" is what people say, in order to pass the blame elsewhere, often away from their own ignorance. G series mowers are similar design, seen lots and lots of BX's and G's with bad engines because of this. I have one that was a victim.
Hello tugbolt
The reason for such a late reply is we just parked this thing to run the depreciation out on it.
We are now in the process of scraping this thing.
Just to let you know this unit has provisions for 4 occupants and it has never been operated with more than 2 occupants, has never had anything loaded in the bed, has never pulled any type of trailer and has never been used to do anything except to transport 2 people.
When the dealer informed us there would be no warranty for the overheat we did our own repair.
After the repair we continued to have over heating.
I called the dealer and they informed me that no one else is having overheat problems with this model.
When I told him that we had to replace the cylinder head he went in to from memory listing all of the additional parts that had to be replace when cylinder head had to be removed for overheating such as the coolant tank and radiator cap arrangement etc
So much for “no one else” having overheat problems.
Regardless of how the Tech support is set up if they would not help me with a $18,000.00 machine then why would I purchase a $100,000.00 Kubota?
Phil P
Phil P
The reason for such a late reply is we just parked this thing to run the depreciation out on it.
We are now in the process of scraping this thing.
Just to let you know this unit has provisions for 4 occupants and it has never been operated with more than 2 occupants, has never had anything loaded in the bed, has never pulled any type of trailer and has never been used to do anything except to transport 2 people.
When the dealer informed us there would be no warranty for the overheat we did our own repair.
After the repair we continued to have over heating.
I called the dealer and they informed me that no one else is having overheat problems with this model.
When I told him that we had to replace the cylinder head he went in to from memory listing all of the additional parts that had to be replace when cylinder head had to be removed for overheating such as the coolant tank and radiator cap arrangement etc
So much for “no one else” having overheat problems.
Regardless of how the Tech support is set up if they would not help me with a $18,000.00 machine then why would I purchase a $100,000.00 Kubota?
Phil P
Phil P