Engine Oil

[dlundblad]

Just a quick question;with warranties the way they are now ,does anyone see a conflict if you had a claim and you told them that 5w40 was in the crankcase.The op manual with my 2501 list sae30,10w30,and 15w40 for it.The info is clearly outdated because it instructs to use CI rated oil which is a very old rating (up to CK now).I plan to use rotella t5 10w30 in mine at oil change ,I use my tractor as a wheelbarrow a lot and just like the quicker flow better in winter. For oil related questions I highly recommend-Bob is the oil guy forum ,volumes of oil related information on there.

I say it depends on your dealer.

Mine says people don't normally use synthetic in these and that any name brand diesel oil will work. I read somewhere else that Kubota Corporate doesn't like the use of synthetic when it's hot outside.. Lots of wrong info here, but to avoid conflict in the event of a warranty issue, I am sticking with a name brand 15w40 for now. It's good from 15*F to above 77*F and it's on the manual.

The manual also says a CF oil can be used. Mobil 1 0w40 (synthetic gas and light duty diesel oil) meets that spec interestingly enough. My dealer also sells Kubota 5w40.. It's a very grey area.

 

[Big Gee Tn]

I agree it probably would have a lot to do with your dealer.If rotella T6 was made in 10w30 that's what I would use.Delo is available in that grade but I like the high zinc and phosphorus in the rotella,it was not lowered to 800 ppm to meet the sn rating.This is just my thoughts like said before everyone likes what they like but if I lived in an icebox like most on this forum does I probably would use the 5w too just for starting easier.

 

[thedevilyoulove]

I change my Kubota oil annually (I put less than 100 hours a year on it). I have used Shell Rotella a few times, Valvoline Premium Blue, and I have Mobil Delvac on deck for next oil change. All are synthetic blend 10w-30 and CJ-4 rated for the tier 4 engines. I use NAPA Gold oil filters.

I am not brand loyal, I buy whatever name brand oil is on sale or has a nice rebate. I got the Mobil Delvac from Advance auto parts for $9.99/gal after $9 rebate.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I'm with you. In my case, whatever my jobber sells in bulk, I buy. Just so happens T6 in a drum is the best price.

Never heard of an oil related failure in a Kubota engine unless it was run out of oil or never changed in umpteen hours.

My old boss bought a Chrysler Pacifica and drove it 80K miles and never changed or checked the oil and at 80K it finally blew. Not because the oil was dirty, because it ran out finally.

I change both of mine every spring but I average about 350 hours on each every year.

 

[Jhgr]

Warning: Do not use diesel oil in a gas motor, it can damage the rings!

EDIT: I've been told I was wrong enough times it's got to be 100% true!
So just disregard what i said!

I have a 1800 gold wing motorcycle with 80000 miles on it, and 15w40 diesel oil is all that’s ever been in it. Still runs like new

 

[Bulldog]

If I'm wrong I sure would like to know it, pain in the backside to have 2 different oils hanging around!

I've always been told you can use diesel oil in a gas engine but can't go the other way. The diesel rated oil obviously has the correct additives to protect a diesel engine and it actually overkill for a gas engine. Meaning it exceeds the requirements for most gas engines.

The only thing that comes to mind where a gas engine requires a specific oil is in the case where wet clutches are used like on atv's and such.

 

[motorhead]

For a long time, Diesel rated oil, "C-I" was recommended for all diesels from day ONE to current engines. When the January 1, 2007 engines came into production, A different rating of Diesel oil had to be used. The NEW category was "C-J". The reason was because the new diesels had the exhaust treatment "Cats" and such that would be fouled with the heavy additives in the "C-I" oils. C-I oils had zinc and other additives that were great for cams, lifters and bearings but the additives would damage or foul the "NEW" and "Improved" exhaust after treatment devices. So the same holds true about using certain earlier "Diesel Rated" oils in late model gasoline engines with catalytic convertors. The "metals" and other additives in the C-I rated diesel oils can damage the catalytic converters by irreversibly fouling them.
Not having the "New and Improved" Kubota emission equipment on my B3200 (THANK God!), I am sure the DPF equipped Kubota's probably have to run a certain rated diesel oil or suffer damage.
So life isn't so simple anymore.

 

[kuvasz101]

Amsoil 5w30 diesel is the best of the best and can be used year round. Excellent for winter use.

 

[Shipwreck]

Love your quote.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I've always been told you can use diesel oil in a gas engine but can't go the other way. The diesel rated oil obviously has the correct additives to protect a diesel engine and it actually overkill for a gas engine. Meaning it exceeds the requirements for most gas engines.

The only thing that comes to mind where a gas engine requires a specific

oil is in the case where wet clutches are used like on atv's and such.

My wife's getting old and rusty Transit Connect van has had a steady diet of Rotella 5-40 T6 since new and it has 176, 000 miles on it and I put the scanner on it the other day and everything still checks out ok, all emissions hardware is fine and yes, the CAT still stinks.

With that said, I cannot buy into using one oil for a gas engine and another for diesel engines. Don't see any issues with emissions hardware at all.

I think if the CAT was going to get damaged, 176K would have done the deed.

Heck, I even use it in my air cooled gas engines

 

[Dennis.D]

Older gas engines were much more forgiving in what oil they were content with for oil. By older I mean before multi displacement (cuts out cylinders when not needed) and VVT (variable valve timing). This is when the manufacturers started requiring 0W? and 5W? weight oil. These new engines don't always work as designed with the old stand by 10W30's and 40's. I am a big believer in synthetic oil, but won't go over 5000 miles on an oil change. In my Gr L6060 I use Rotella 15W40 T6 full synthetic and will change every year or 200 hours which ever comes first.

 

[SidecarFlip]

T6 is 5-40. T3 is 15-40 last time I checked.

 

[Dennis.D]

They also make 15W40 now in T6. Maybe just within the last year? I found it at Walmart of all places.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Could very well be. I use the 5-40 because my engines strain less (turnover faster) in the winter. My tractors don't get plugged in, in the barn there is no electricity in it and the 5-40 in my diesel pickup makes starting in the winter easier as well. It don't get plugged in either.

I don't change my oil for the sake of changing it, never have. I go by oil analysis and TBN number. That Tells me when the additive package is depleted and I do oil analysis on every change so I know how long I can run any lubricant and I change it before the additive package is depleted. Might look dirty but if it's additive package is intact, I run it.

I'd say with 4000 hours on one tractor and 2500 on the other, with no lubrication related issues, I'm fine. Same way with my pickup truck. I typically do 10K miles on an oil change on my pickup and I had the valve covers off last spring and the overhead is as clean as when the truck was new. No sludge, no varnish, clean as a whistle under the valve covers.

 

[D2Cat]

Now Flip quit bragging on oil change time, oil analysis and long engine life in a tractor you've owned for less then a year! Someone else did whatever got it this far.

 

[Dennis.D]

Could very well be. I use the 5-40 because my engines strain less (turnover faster) in the winter. My tractors don't get plugged in, in the barn there is no electricity in it and the 5-40 in my diesel pickup makes starting in the winter easier as well. It don't get plugged in either.

I don't change my oil for the sake of changing it, never have. I go by oil analysis and TBN number. That Tells me when the additive package is depleted and I do oil analysis on every change so I know how long I can run any lubricant and I change it before the additive package is depleted. Might look dirty but if it's additive package is intact, I run it.

I'd say with 4000 hours on one tractor and 2500 on the other, with no lubrication related issues, I'm fine. Same way with my pickup truck. I typically do 10K miles on an oil change on my pickup and I had the valve covers off last spring and the overhead is as clean as when the truck was new. No sludge, no varnish, clean as a whistle under the valve covers.

Why would you have both valve covers off if there was no problem?

 

[SidecarFlip]

Why would you have both valve covers off if there was no problem?

Had to replace the glo plug and injector control jarness on one side because the plu failed (after 16 years). Did one but bought both and did both sides. I don't consider that a lubrication issue, I consider that an electrical issue.

When I had the covers off (to replace the harness) it was clean and completely deposit free underneath.

I might add I use Archoil additive in the oil and their fuel supplement as well. Good stuff for HEUI engines.

It's a 1997 OBS 4 door long bed 4x4. Bought it new in 1997.

 

[GeoHorn]

The “sludge” found in older engines is usually the result of lead in gasoline (for gas models) and water from condensation of short operating periods, lack of proper warm-up, and exposure to elements. Modern engines don’t run on leaded gasoline (except for aircraft) and hopefully you don’t leave machinery outdoors without cover and don’t start it, use it for short periods and store it (or worse, occasionally start equipment in long-term storage and run it for a short period thinking you’re doing some sort of “good”. It’s better to leave idle equipment alone than to run them for short periods.)

I’d be surprised if “sludge” were found in a modern engine unless water was a problem, as mentioned.