Engine oil: 5W-40 too broad?

rjcorazza

Member

Equipment
L4060 HSTC Loader, ZD326, ZD1211
Mar 9, 2016
778
24
18
Hyattstown, MD
If it helps much, I use the Amsoil 15W-40 heavy duty diesel oil all year long. I'm in central IN too, so the temps are fairly similar. Still depends on what county you're in, but you already know what I'm talking about there. :p
I've never had any issues in the winter, still spins over nicely without the decompression pulled. Granted, my engine has 2700 hrs on it, so it's well broken in. I've got roughly 25 hours on my current oil change and it's only just starting to get a bit dark, if that tells you anything about the quality of oil.
I also agree with 1970cs on the break-in deal. But in all honesty, were I in your shoes, I would do what feels right, as long as it doesn't harm any warranties. :)
A 15w40 would be my second choice, as I agree that a low of single digits (f) is not really that cold. I installed a block heater on my previous tractor which makes the oil (w)inter rating choice practically moot. That thing would start like on a summer day after 3 hours of block heater! I will probably wait until the coolant is due for changing to put a heater on my new tractor.
These oil threads always seem to bring out some deep seated beliefs and opinions. I will limit my comments here to add that if anyone is concerned about cold starts, the number one thing that can be done is to install a block heater!
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,440
78
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
I've been running 5w30 full synthetic in my tractors since they were new year round and never have any problems.
 

ThisIsNotaStep

New member

Equipment
2005 bx23 tlb
Nov 26, 2010
133
2
0
Ontario, Canada
Interesting, I have been going thru this debate too, like the org poster I also have a BX, a 2005, and the service manual calls for different oil weights, Kubota keeps changing them. I only went thru this 'cause I couldn't find the previous brand/weight I use to use. Turns out the car (diesel cars) manufacturers have changed their specs in the last few years, and my spec has fallen out of favor. Glad mine has got hours on it 'cause the only thing I could find was semi-synthetic.
 

mudog88

Member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
1982 B7100HST-DT, RC60-71H MMM, 5ft. back blade
Aug 11, 2015
100
4
18
Pine Village, Indiana
A 15w40 would be my second choice, as I agree that a low of single digits (f) is not really that cold. I installed a block heater on my previous tractor which makes the oil (w)inter rating choice practically moot. That thing would start like on a summer day after 3 hours of block heater! I will probably wait until the coolant is due for changing to put a heater on my new tractor.
The only reason I went with the higher (W)inter weight was because I had some light blow-by when the engine was warming up, which has disappeared after switching over. I'm thinking a D-950 swap may be coming in the future. :D Or a rebuild of the current engine, time allowing of course. And being that I park my little tank in the attached garage that rarely sees freezing temps, I didn't think it was needed for winter use. Now, once my shed is done up, I may consider a lower winter weight, but for now, she seems happy to run all day on the 15W-40. :cool:
 

RCW

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Apr 28, 2013
9,244
5,425
113
Chenango County, NY
I run Rotella T6 5-40. Have since 70 hours or so. Change it once or twice per year.

First I ran across the break-in period before using synthetic was with my Harley Davidson - I think they said 1,000 miles.

My '13 Silverado came with "free" scheduled service for 2 years. Chevys now use Dexos certified oil, or at least synthetic blend. Meant first LOF and tire rotation was scheduled at 7,500 miles. I have never run a fresh engine 7,500 miles without oil change.

I think I did first at 3,000 miles with full synthetic, and 4-5,000 mile intervals since.
 

L35

Well-known member

Equipment
L35/TL720/BT900/York rake/Valby chipper
Jun 13, 2010
520
422
63
CT
Does anyone know if the engines in our tractors are flat tappet design?
 

lucweg

New member

Equipment
L1-24 Sunshine, rototiller RL1401 (?), plow, cultivator, flail cutter
Aug 27, 2013
27
0
1
70
Belgium
Hello Jack,

I have found a very good article on that topic : http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts/.
Most of the damage on the engine happens when it is cold because no oil has the good viscosity at that time (10cs). So you can certainly use a 5W-40 but at the same temperature the 5W-30 has a bit lower (= better) viscosity.
In the article all that stuff is very well explained, also a lot about mineral and synthetic oil.

Kind regards
Luc
 

lucweg

New member

Equipment
L1-24 Sunshine, rototiller RL1401 (?), plow, cultivator, flail cutter
Aug 27, 2013
27
0
1
70
Belgium
Hello Jack,

I have found a very good article on that topic : http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts/ and then click on the left panel : Motor University.
Most of the damage on the engine happens when it is cold because no oil has the good viscosity at that time (10cs). So you can certainly use a 5W-40 but at the same temperature the 5W-30 has a bit lower (= better) viscosity.
In the article all that stuff is very well explained, also a lot about mineral and synthetic oil.

Kind regards
Luc