Enclosed Pole Barn

[Poohbear]

Where did I say anything about wiring in a house? Im saying in any non residential building wiring has to be surface mounted. It cant be behind walls which would come after insulation. Im not thinking you could understand the code But I will get the book out and find the section for you.

Sure gonna be some ugly walls in offices, schools etc.. I have run a few miles of conduit in stud spaces which were then covered by sheet rock etc but that's here .

 

[BigG]

This barn is in Fl. The plans need to be approved by the building department unless it is on large acreage and is an ag barn. So when the plans get drawn up for approval ask you local architect or draftsman and they should be able to give you the info.

Each and every jurisdiction may have their own rules or regulations added to the national codes or standard practices. So arm chair building this is only going to add to the confusion. And I have run into rogue inspectors that are on their own ego trip and red tag you for their own personal reasons.

 

[rokhunter]

This barn is in Fl. The plans need to be approved by the building department unless it is on large acreage and is an ag barn. So when the plans get drawn up for approval ask you local architect or draftsman and they should be able to give you the info.



Each and every jurisdiction may have their own rules or regulations added to the national codes or standard practices. So arm chair building this is only going to add to the confusion. And I have run into rogue inspectors that are on their own ego trip and red tag you for their own personal reasons.

I've already got the engineered plans taken care of and permits are pulled for the construction, but the builder doesn't handle electrical. I'll also be talking to my electrician today to get his input. All that to say there are multiple ways to get to the end result (open cell foam, closed cell, Batts, foam board, finished interior, unfinished interior, etc.) so these forums are a great place to find out what others have done, what they did or didn't like, what they wish they had done different, etc. I'm not asking for specifics on how to conduct open-heart surgery on a specific person. [emoji16]

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[GreensvilleJay]

Aside for whatever code is law...... I'd sheet the walls, paint them primer white, THEN run conduit. There's NO way you can plan the EXACT location and qty of recptacles...I don't care who you arehow many rings you wear or papers on the wall....'things' change.....usually 3 days after stuff is buried...
I put 2 double receptacle boxes at each drop, so 4 'things' can be plugged in. THAT saves running cheaters or 3 way extenion cord or whatever 3-1 or 6-1 adapters are called. Up front cost is minmal.
I installed plywood horizontally,primer white, then screwed 1by6 along the joint, so electical is 4' off the ground. The conduit is all 3/4" so extra wires can be pulled in the future. Both air compressor and welder receptacles are the same, so either can go to either spot..... thing do change.......

 

[GeoBx2680]

This barn is in Fl. The plans need to be approved by the building department unless it is on large acreage and is an ag barn. So when the plans get drawn up for approval ask you local architect or draftsman and they should be able to give you the info.

Each and every jurisdiction may have their own rules or regulations added to the national codes or standard practices. So arm chair building this is only going to add to the confusion. And I have run into rogue inspectors that are on their own ego trip and red tag you for their own personal reasons.

Only problem I see with the Architect giving you good info is most of them do not know SH!+ about codes. To them everything looks good on paper.

I've worked on some very nice homes that were nightmares because of the architect. Im not talking a 2 million dollar homes here.
Heck the one house the master suite was 2000+ sq ft. Theres 18 bathrooms , bowling alley, movie theater room in this house.
only thing it was missing was a Starbucks

 

[GeoBx2680]

I've already got the engineered plans taken care of and permits are pulled for the construction, but the builder doesn't handle electrical. I'll also be talking to my electrician today to get his input. All that to say there are multiple ways to get to the end result (open cell foam, closed cell, Batts, foam board, finished interior, unfinished interior, etc.) so these forums are a great place to find out what others have done, what they did or didn't like, what they wish they had done different, etc. I'm not asking for specifics on how to conduct open-heart surgery on a specific person. [emoji16]

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My pole barn has been up 2 years now. I just finished insulating walls and now framing the ceiling so I can get metal on the ceiling this summer and hopefully some walls done to put up shelves and a work bench area.

I can tell you at least 10 things I wish I had done different.

One thing I did that Greensville said was the double duplex outlets on the wall where my work area will be. And each side is on its own 20 amp breaker. I should never trip a breaker then.

The other thing 30x40 building if you got the room and extra money 30x48 you'll wish you did. I went 36x48 and wish id gone 36x56

 

[rokhunter]

The other thing 30x40 building if you got the room and extra money 30x48 you'll wish you did. I went 36x48 and wish id gone 36x56

The standard barn size is always "I should've made it bigger...." No matter how big it is LMAO. I bet where you're coming from for sure! 30x40 is where the budget capped me though, if I wanted to have any money to finish the interior how I want. One good lotto ticket though....



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[bird dogger]

The standard barn size is always "I should've made it bigger...." No matter how big it is LMAO. I bet where you're coming from for sure! 30x40 is where the budget capped me though, if I wanted to have any money to finish the interior how I want. One good lotto ticket though....



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To get a lot more useable storage out of my shed it was suggested I go with 14 ft. sidewalls instead of the 12 ft. originally planned. For the extra cost I was able to put up mezzanines along the end wall and over a work area and still be able to stand upright on top of and under both. It sure got a lot of smaller light seasonal stuff up out of the way that would've eaten up valuable floor space.

14 foot sidewalls also allowed for a 12'+ OH door that allowed rental space for campers with AC on the roof.

Just another thought to consider. The mezzanines are worth their weight in gold. You don't need 12' to 14' clearance over everything and they double the floor space for minimal cost. I even wish I would've left the studs full length instead of trimming them to make the total wall height 14 feet. even the added height from the top and bottom plates would've been nice.

Regards,
David

 

[GeoBx2680]

The standard barn size is always "I should've made it bigger...." No matter how big it is LMAO. I bet where you're coming from for sure! 30x40 is where the budget capped me though, if I wanted to have any money to finish the interior how I want. One good lotto ticket though....



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Thats cool we all got budgets. I don't come from money either.

I had a budget. Only got so much money when we sold the house in town 3 years ago and moved that was spent on my shed, whole main floor remodel on the new place and my Kubota.
What was left went to pay down the new mortgage some.

What saved me was a doing some work myself ,but paid someone to build shed. My brother hauled the 5 semi-loads of gravel for the site. Had a friend do site prep and grade the floor and do concrete work. I roughed in the in-floor heat myself. (Im a heating /air guy). Wired it from outlets to trenching to the power pole. Utility company hooked that up. Now I'm working on finishing the inside by myself.
I also did 80% of the work in the house when we remodeled that. 3 years ago. Theres only 3 reason i'll pay someone to do work around my house.
1. I don't have the time
2. I don't want to
3. I don't have access to the right tools/equipment

 

[Poohbear]

I went with closed cell on my shop last year. Open cell is cheaper here in my area but the closed cell seals . My exterior is grey with white trim and last June before the insulators could do the job , in the afternoon you didn't want within 5 ft of the inside west wall, hot hot hot.
My builder will not use regular roll insulation anymore. He said had lots of buildings over time start leaking due to the insulation staying compressed after several years of expansion/contraction . I hated to use a builder other than concrete if I did a wooden/pole frame was going to have to hire help any way. My wife's disability had done got to the point she couldn't help but very little so I just went all steel . my wall girls are on 4ft centers so if I do put up plywood will be easy

 

[KennysNewFarm]

...since it seems many of you have them! I'm getting a 30x40x12 enclosed pole barn built and am planning to get closed cell spray foam insulation. For those who've done that, 1) did you have any problems with the foam expansion and your electrical (wires, plugs, etc.), and 2) would you recommend OSB over the foam or just leave it exposed? I know I do not need the thermal barrier in my area for code purpose. Thanks!

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Interesting fun fact on spray foam. If you spray the entire inside of your building it will not have any ventilation. From experience if the garage is shut up continually and moisture is drawn in and cannot get out mold will form on everything. Had two classic cars full of mold inside interior, under the hood, even the frames. If you are going to spray the entire barn invest in a dehumidifier. Looking back I would do it a little different. One thing is for sure however it took 30 mins to heat from 32 degrees to 60 on a 32x45 building.

 

[Poohbear]

Interesting fun fact on spray foam. If you spray the entire inside of your building it will not have any ventilation. From experience if the garage is shut up continually and moisture is drawn in and cannot get out mold will form on everything. Had two classic cars full of mold inside interior, under the hood, even the frames. If you are going to spray the entire barn invest in a dehumidifier. Looking back I would do it a little different. One thing is for sure however it took 30 mins to heat from 32 degrees to 60 on a 32x45 building.

I'm not having that moisture problem but can see how easily that could happen especially if no moisture barrier in slab. Mine gets opened up quite often plus my overhead doors aren't sealed to the frames.
I'm retired HVACR guy and have thought seriously about putting in a system but our tax appraiser gets a big smile on her face when you do this.

 

[rokhunter]

Mine will be opened up a few times a week, but is also getting a mini-split AC unit to help with climate control.

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[KennysNewFarm]

Mine will be opened up a few times a week, but is also getting a mini-split AC unit to help with climate control.

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Sounds good. Hope you get a lot of use and enjoyment out of your new barn!