Easy way to remove implements???

[kris77]

Right now i only have a Woods RB60 back blade. Putting it on and removing it is a pain. Is there an easier way to do this?? I have a feeling you guys are going to tell me to get a Harbor Frieght QA for it.

I dont use it enough to justify it. I am just looking for an easy way to put the 3pt arms on the stupid thing....

 

[Benhameen]

I believe you answered your own question. I realized very quickly that a quick hitch is the only way to go on these smaller tractors. There just isn't enough room back there to work comfortably.

Get one, set it up properly and enjoy a lot less frustration when it's time to change implements, im sure you'll have more than just the blade in the future.

 

[Benhameen]

Maybe another options would be to just leave it on if that's the only implement you have to mess with at the moment. ??

 

[Kingcreek]

Other than a quick hitch (highly recommended),
it helps if you park them on a level hard surface and block them with a jack stand or something to hold the position.

 

[Grouse Feathers]

Watch an expert attach an implement to a 3 point. Watching this was enough to convince me to buy a quick hitch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSatF4QoqmI
Now I don't even get off the tractor to put on my grading scraper.

 

[Benhameen]

Maybe another options would be to just leave it on if that's the only implement you have to mess with at the moment. ??

 

[Ramos]

Nothing wrong with not wanting a quick hitch. Nothing wrong with having one, either.

The best way to make it easier is simply by doing it. Every time you do it, pay attention to what particular actions made it easier or, more difficult. No matter what approach you settle on, working on a hard, flat surface and having stable implements will work in your favor.

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

So I have Pats quick hitch, mainly because my implements are different widths. Also all my implements are on dollies, inside the shed. So hookup is pretty easy now.
Drop 3pt arms get close to implement.
Get off and roll it to the arms.
Lift arms and lock.
Attach centerlink.

 

[rjcorazza]

I have always been tempted to get a quick hitch, but my new(ish) L4060 has the telescoping lower link arms. Backing up to the implement I just stop a little short and move the lower arms into place.
To the op - if you don't want to go the quick hitch route, really practice makes perfect. Watch some videos, drop and pickup implements on a firm / level surface, and depending on weight, position the implement with some screw jack type stabilizers. Also, spend your time lining up the tractor rather than horsing the implement.
Good luck!

 

[85Hokie]

Right now i only have a Woods RB60 back blade. Putting it on and removing it is a pain. Is there an easier way to do this?? I have a feeling you guys are going to tell me to get a Harbor Frieght QA for it.

I dont use it enough to justify it. I am just looking for an easy way to put the 3pt arms on the stupid thing....

Back when I had my '53 Ford Jubilee - I had the exact same problem as you describe - I would invent new words when trying to get that last "arm" hooked up......and yes the quick hitch is a great answer.

On my back blade - I would always drop it on a flat piece of ground, and then place it on two pieces of wood that were perpendicular to the blade, old pieces of 2x4 or something and then I would have a good ol cinder block or tree stump that I could set the top link onto. This way I could lower the blade and get off the tractor, and push and pull the blade across the 2x4 enough to move it where it needed to be or I could push the tractor tire a bit so it would move that last inch or so. Still was a PITA - but a little less of one. The blade would move much better across the 2x4 than the ground. Back up to release and backing up to replace were the keys to it being smoother. Same thing you would need to master even with the quick hitch.

 

[Tennspread]

For my box blade I picked up (2) furniture dolleys for about $7 each. Lower implement down to the dolleys where load is off 3-pint hitch and the arms just slide off. Roll implement into corner of the garage or anywhere else needed

-TS

 

[Grouse Feathers]

If you don't want to go the quick hitch route at least look at Hodges Stabilizers. Hodges stabilizers are much easier to adjust to the implement then turnbuckles. And when you pull the pins in the stabilizers you can swing the lower arms wide easier.
When you take the rear blade off drop it on a couple of 2x4s or 4x4s. When you are putting it back on you can wedge a bar or a piece of wood under the blade to lever it in position.

 

[scdeerslayer]

Without a quick hitch or pat's hitches what you can do is leave a piece of steel pipe or old T post or something else nearby to help move the implement around.

One thing I've realized is that when hooking up an implement with standard pins (like what's on this one:http://www.everythingattachments.com/King-Kutter-48in-XB-Subcompact-Tractor-Box-Blade-p/kk-bb-48-xb-box-blade.htm), once you get the pins lined up to the balls, in order to get the balls all the way onto the pins the implement and tractor need to move slightly farther away, and just the opposite needs to happen for removal. I notice this more for CAT II than CAT I though. I guess that's why a lot of newer implements use the style like what's on this one:http://www.everythingattachments.com/XTreme-Duty-Box-Blade-For-Utility-Tractors-p/eta-xdbb-30-70.htm. I use Pat's hitches though and they make things so much easier.

 

[cerlawson]

One thing to check before buying the Quick Hitch. Check the distance between the arms at the base of pins for ALL of the attachments you want to use. Then for the most of them that are nearly the same buy the Quick Hitch for that dimension. There are several out there with differing dimensions. There also is a standard for the level I that is most common. Mine measures 21-1/8".

 

[Tooljunkie]

I made a new set of lift arms, with quick connects on the ends. Was cheap enough and it works, kinda. The latches occasionally pop my quick pins,no fun looking back and finding one side disconnected. Then looking for missing pieces. Dont want to hit those with a moower.

 

[Russell King]

Here are the steps I take to hook up a implement:
Back up to the implement aligned with the arms and pins
Stop a few inches short
Hook up the PTO shaft first ( make sure the shaft won't separate when doing this
Then disconnect the sway turnbuckles and let them just hang. Mine have pins at tractor end with hairpins to make that easy. Don't lose pins!
Lower the lift arms all the way and get them inside or outside (which ever is needed) of the pins
I have ag tires so I can grab a lug and move tractor back to align one of the two pins. It is really best to align the non adjustable arm first. Get it started and kick it if needed to get it fully on. Install lynchpin
Go to other side and repeat. If needed you can back the tractor up to force the implement to move around a bit but be very careful.
Then connect the top link
Adjust top link and tilt of implement as needed

To disconnect from the tractor is much easier and basically the reverse of installation.
Set implement down in a fairly level spot and on boards or a pallet
Lower fully
Block implement if needed to keep it from falling
Disconnect the top link
Disconnect the sway turnbuckles
Disconnect the lynchpins and remove the lift arms. May need to kick or hit them to get them off easier
Remove the PTO from tractor
Done


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