Dumb 4WD Question

[BigG]

All the talk on this forum about led / lag with tire sizes and you guys think it is wise to leave the 4wd lock all the time? The system is working against itself when ever it is engaged in 4wd. The slippage must occur since the ratio is not 1:1 on the two axles. Make a sharp turn even on grass or soft soil results in wear on the drive line. Just driving in a straight line puts a strain on things since the ratio is not 1:1.

I know there are a lot of people on here that do not run enough hours on their machine to make a difference but the wear is occurring every revolution of the axles. Think of it this way, how many run with the diff lock together all the time? Zero. Why? Does the wear on the tires and the poor turning abilities come to mind? Now instead of locking two wheels together that are side by side let us lock the front to the rear. Seams to me there is an increase in tire wear and a reduction in turning ability.

Please tell me you can hear the difference in the sound of the tractor when it is in 2wd compared to 4wd. Something is making the noise. For some reason the steering feels different.

I am not saying to avoid using the 4wd but apply it as needed. If the lawn has hillsides that require 4wd lock it in. Other wise let it be a 2wd. Mud, lock it in. Dry level work why take a chance.

 

[nbryan]

I wish these Kubotas would have a dashboard indicator of 4x4 engaged...

AND hand brake on light!

 

[nbryan]

If I don't need 4x4 for a period of time and it's level unloaded driving, i shift to 2x4. Also when in 4x4 the front tires start digging up the grass and packed wet gravel too much while turning, and I'm not needing the extra traction.

 

[random]

Not at all sure it’s applicable to tractors but for selectable 2WD/4WD trucks and SUV’s that are left in 2WD and not at least cycled into 4WD for many years, sometimes the splines will get stuck and won’t slide to engage 4WD. Seen it a few times. Not necessarily common but a PITA if it happens as it results in a trip to a transmission shop or a 4WD vehicle that’s relegated to 2WD only. If you never, ever take it out of 4WD don’t know why you’d care if it’s stuck in 4WD.

Thank you for that, puts more context around the comment.

 

[aaluck]

2WD is my "OPTION" and 4WD is standard. it all depends on your situation.

That's exactly right. Know one thing.. I would never get a tractor without 4WD. I would have been stuck more times than I can remember.

 

[JimmyJazz]

All the talk on this forum about led / lag with tire sizes and you guys think it is wise to leave the 4wd lock all the time? The system is working against itself when ever it is engaged in 4wd. The slippage must occur since the ratio is not 1:1 on the two axles. Make a sharp turn even on grass or soft soil results in wear on the drive line. Just driving in a straight line puts a strain on things since the ratio is not 1:1.

I know there are a lot of people on here that do not run enough hours on their machine to make a difference but the wear is occurring every revolution of the axles. Think of it this way, how many run with the diff lock together all the time? Zero. Why? Does the wear on the tires and the poor turning abilities come to mind? Now instead of locking two wheels together that are side by side let us lock the front to the rear. Seams to me there is an increase in tire wear and a reduction in turning ability.

Please tell me you can hear the difference in the sound of the tractor when it is in 2wd compared to 4wd. Something is making the noise. For some reason the steering feels different.

I am not saying to avoid using the 4wd but apply it as needed. If the lawn has hillsides that require 4wd lock it in. Other wise let it be a 2wd. Mud, lock it in. Dry level work why take a chance.

Same in my GMC pickup truck. Seems a battle going on in the drive line when sharp turning in 4 dog dig (4wd). Just use it when you need it. Thats been a lot recently. The thing is terrible in the snow otherwise.

 

[old and tired]

A bunch of these tractors have R4 industrial tires... there is NO traction in 2x4. If I have a repair bill since I run 4x4 all the time... it's going to be cheaper than the possible hospital bill for sliding uncontrolled down a hill into trees.

Been there ALMOST done that...

 

[NCL4701]

If it ever quits raining here long enough for the entire property to not be a mud bog track I might take mine out of 4WD. Something to hope for anyway.

For about a year now it’s rare I can walk across the yard without leaving tracks (and yeah, I’m a little fat but not that fat). I sure can’t haul firewood out of the creek bottoms or mow the sewer line or grade the creek crossings in 2WD. Right now if it isn’t on pavement or gravel 2WD tractor or 2WD anything else isn’t going to accomplish much.

 

[NHSleddog]

Most tractors are 4WD not AWD.

I switch mine in/out all the time.

 

[fruitcakesa]

I keep it in 4wd in winter/sloppy conditions especially when traveling downhill.
I put it in 2wd when conditions permit.

 

[GeoHorn]

AND hand brake on light!

See this: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/...ake-reminder-caution-lamp-installation.48021/

 

[nbryan]

See this: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/...ake-reminder-caution-lamp-installation.48021/

I was actually considering something like this! Thx 4 the link.

 

[Dave_eng]

The one aspect to this issue I don't see mentioned is braking.

No brakes on the front wheels obviously.

With 4WD engaged,the rear brakes providing braking on the front wheels through the drive line.

Try driving down a slippery muddy slope into an excavation with a full bucket and try and stop or slow down on the slope in 2WD

Most of the weight is on the front wheels. In 2WD driving down the slope is easy but try and stop. The rear wheels lock and you do not stop.

Engage 4WD and now you can easily control the descent.

Dave

 

[RCW]

I'm in 2WD unless 4WD is required.

A component of 4WD that Dave_eng and others mention is braking/stopping.

I took a (short) downhill ride with a rented plate tamper hangin' off the bucket, and I know better.... Not good in that bucket was up high....could have gotten nasty, but all was fine.....

That said, I'm 4WD 99% of winter, but do shift to make turns on the road out front.

I'm 2WD 99% of summer mowing, but have a couple steep spots I'll shift to climb up or go down.....

I do think it's important to shift in/out regularly to keep the shift linkage free.

 

[Stmar]

4wd mostly during the winter, 2wd summer unless doing heavy loader work.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

4WD all the time, Sand, or Snow almost everywhere.

 

[mikester]

4wd is hard on the steering especially if you make hard turns to the end stops. Another negative to leaving the 4wd on all the time is you are constantly pushing or pulling the front drive train so more wear and tear. Now drive with a fully loaded bucket and your problems are multiplied.

If you've ever had to replace a ring and pinion gear you might think twice about using 4wd when you don't have to. I only use mine when I have no other option and I need traction.

It's your machine and your money so do as you will.

 

[MoCo]

When cutting grass with my finishing mower, I find that 4WD will chew up my lawn when turning, causing unnecessary turf damage. If your grass is wet or slippery to require 4WD, perhaps you should not be out there cutting it? The exception is my hilly terrain where the 4WD is necessary, in which case I am going slow enough anyway to avoid damage. My Kubota is the only tractor I have ever owned that does not have a 4x4 indicator on the instrument panel, and I find that incredibly annoying and inexplicable. With any electrically engaging 4WD system (like trucks) I have always made a point to switch in and out of 4WD just to keep the system operational. Call me old-fashioned.