Drive shaft ball coupling removal/replacement B7100

[Dennis]

My tractor is split with thrust bearing holder removed but it looks like it's not possible to slide the drive shaft ,with ball coupling attached, out through the bellhousing.
So I am looking at removing the coupling from the drive shaft by working underneath the tractor through the access holes in the shaft tunnel (ugh!)

Can anyone advise how to approach getting the coupling off the shaft spline, disassembling and replacing the defective component.

The retaining gasket on the coupling has bulged out and is half over the circlip so I suspect something inside (ball?) will need replacement.

I anticipate this will be a bit tricky and it's a liitle dark and cramped working in that tunnel so any help is appreciated.

 

[eserv]

You maybe could repair that coupler through those holes but you would save a lot of time and skin to just split the tractor at the front of the transmission.
Ed

 

[Dennis]

thanks Ed,
I think you are right. I have tried to get at it but it's a pain

 

[Rickcas]

Hi Dennis,
I just did the ball coupling on my B6200 I think yours is very similar. Assuming you split the tractor at the bell housing. Hopefully you have a factory rollbar. Pull down on the rollbar and let it come to the ground. Now it is much easier to service the ball coupling. Remove the large snap ring separate the coupling remove the propeller shaft through the throw out bearing sleeve watching for anything binding. Remove the roll pin on the large diameter end of the ball coupling attached to transmission. Be carefull use a punch slightly smaller than the roll pin. A long handle punch works best. Remove the bearing retainer roll pin on the other end remove retainer. Buy new roll pins when you buy the new coupling. Having the propeller shaft removed allows you to use it to line up the clutch disc if you have not already done so. Use grease to hold the balls in on new coupling assembly.

Good Luck,
Rick

 

[Dennis]

thanks Rick,
it was after reading one of your earlier posts that I checked my coupling more closely. Retaining washer had been forced out over circlip and coupling was loose.
When I opened the coupling only 2 of the 4 balls were in there.

A small bit of one spline on the transmision input shaft spline has broke off but the rest of it is ok.

I am replacing the whole coupling and thought maybe I should replace the Front 4 WD drive shaft U joint while I am in there (not that I have much cash left now)

I saw your photos of the tractor tipped back on the ROPS.

Unfortunately I do not have one so I ended up splitting the tunnel off at the transmission case and pulling the shaft out. I 've got hoists, jacks, stands and choks everywhere and even a ladder with the mid section suspended under it.

Thanks again for the very concise and accurate advice in your posts.

 

[Dennis]

Rick,
just checked one of your last posts and you indicated you had to use a vice (I think) to remove and fit your thrust bearing onto the bearing hoder.

My old bearing just came off easily by hand and my new one fits more firmly but it still can be pushed fully on or off by hand.

My question is whether this indicates unacceptable wear on the holder and will this cause problems