Drain valve for a rain barrel

[imarobot]

I have a 55 gallon plastic barrel and want to install a drain valve on the side of the barrel near the bottom. I don’t want to cut the top off the barrel. Most of the valves I have seen require the top to be removed in order to install the gasket and nut on the back side of the valve. I have seen some cheap plastic valves that don’t require this, but the ratings aren’t that good – leak, come loose, break…
Does anyone know of a valve that I can use? Maybe something with a compression connection???
This will be used indoors so I want something of good quality that won’t leak.
I am also looking for a valve that I can connect a garden hose to.

 

[jimh406]

I don't know if this explanation is going to make sense or not.

The valve typically have a hole through the center. You can try positioning the valve through the hole in the rain barrel and running wire through it to the top where there is some type of hole. Slide the washer and nut over the wire and slide down to the valve. I'm not sure how hard it's going to be to get enough friction to screw the valve into the nut.

 

[William1]

Big blue barrel? Awfully flexible plastic.
I might suggest (ignore if you like!) that you bore a hole in the BOTTOM of the barrel on the opposite end of the fill hole. You can then use a deep socket with a stupid long extension to attach the nut ( @jimh406 has a good idea for dropping the gasket and washer down) inside the barrel. You'll have to figure out the fittings (nipple, nuts, gaskets, elbow) but that should be too hard.Coming out the bottom, the barrel is flat and has a better chance of not leaking, as long as you do not man-handle the assembly. You will have to raise the barrel on some sort of stand but... that may also provide reinforcing the your drain assy.
Another method would be piping to the bottom of the barrel up through the top and down. Start it to siphon and water will flow as long as you are below the water height in the barrel and do not 'break siphon'. No holes, no leaks

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

Google reverse threaded spigot kit. Would that work for you? You still need a small access like through the standard fill hole thats on the top of most barrels.

Some come with the long wire already attached. Some need you to glue a wire or use a string to make the inside alignment. But they work if you're a little handy.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Google reverse threaded spigot kit. Would that work for you? You still need a small access like through the standard fill hole thats on the top of most barrels.

Some come with the long wire already attached. Some need you to glue a wire or use a string to make the inside alignment. But they work if you're a little handy.

I like this one, if the hole in the top is large enough or can be enlarged to pass the bung fitting. Run it and the washer down on a wire like jimh suggested. Then you have something to hold while putting the nut on and tightening it. Then the valve.

 

[selftot]

I have used uniseal fittings for many years without leaks.
Silicon lube helps to install the pipe helps.

I normally use 3/4 schedule 40 pvc but it comes in many sizes.

Put a valve or whatever on the pvc.

 

[Lil Foot]

Depends on how big a valve you need.
For years I have used plastic 1/4"npt valves drilled & tapped directly into the side/bottom edge of blue plastic barrels for my drip system.
No trouble or leaks for many years.

 

[hagrid]

Purchase a plastic welder and weld a bung in your desired location. The bottom of the vessel should have some indication of the composition: PE, LDPE, HDPE, PP, etcera.

 

[jaxs]

Install your valve in one of top bung holes, plug the other then flip barrel upside down and cut new opening in what began as bottom.