Down the rabbit hole of comparing tractors that have a cab.

[mcmxi]

Here's a quick update. My local dealer has an MX6000 with a cab allocated to them which could be here in a month or so. I just put down a deposit on that tractor to lock it in. At this stage my plan is to have the dealer set up the tractor the way I'd buy it as a stand alone deal i.e. don't move any of the add-ons on my current MX to the new MX. I will most likely buy the new MX without trading in my current MX with the idea to keep both or sell the MX locally. If I decide to sell the open station MX the dealer will help me in that regard. All of the implements I have will transition nicely to the new cab model.

My experience with the current MX in combination with looking at a Grand L6060 and MX6000 with cabs side by side, pouring over spreadsheets, reading reviews, looking at specs etc., leads me back to an MX6000 with cab as being the best option for me. It's a tractor that could serve me well for the next 15 to 20 years.
Thanks for the comments, advice and education.

 

[MOTOROLANUT]

I am old school, used to operating old tractors no cabs. Purchased my latest tractor with a cab. Safe to say I will NEVER go back to open station tractor. The HVAC, protection from the sun, stinging/biting insects, engine noise reduction are priceless. When folks get older they appreciate creature comforts more.

 

[mcmxi]

Let me start by saying that I'm not complaining, just providing information that might help others.

As I mentioned earlier, I've put a deposit down on a new MX6000HSTC which is the cab version of what I currently have. My local dealership has provided me with a trade in value for my MX with 60 hours on it and basically I would be losing a staggering $11,000. They also gave me the option to sell my tractor on consignment and going that route with with 10% fee I'd be losing about $10,000.

After adding the following options which I want ....

• Side mirrors
• Rear defogger
• Rear wiper kit
• Rear work lights
• 130A alternator
• Air ride seat with armrests
• 3rd function valve
• Three rear remotes
• Stereo (free)
• Rod indicator kit
• Block heater

.... the MX6000HSTC will cost about $10,000 more than my current MX cost me, so trading or selling through the dealer will result in about a $20,000 swing. I want the cab but I sure as heck don't want to lose $10,000 on the deal. I'll list it on Craiglist or similar once I have my new MX but I won't let it go for cheap. I'd rather keep it and let friend's use it as needed than trade or sell it at a big loss.

 

[Newaterman]

Let me start by saying that I'm not complaining, just providing information that might help others.

As I mentioned earlier, I've put a deposit down on a new MX6000HSTC which is the cab version of what I currently have. My local dealership has provided me with a trade in value for my MX with 60 hours on it and basically I would be losing a staggering $11,000. They also gave me the option to sell my tractor on consignment and going that route with with 10% fee I'd be losing about $10,000.

After adding the following options which I want ....

• Side mirrors
• Rear defogger
• Rear wiper kit
• Rear work lights
• 130A alternator
• Air ride seat with armrests
• 3rd function valve
• Three rear remotes
• Stereo (free)
• Rod indicator kit
• Block heater

.... the MX6000HSTC will cost about $10,000 more than my current MX cost me, so trading or selling through the dealer will result in about a $20,000 swing. I want the cab but I sure as heck don't want to lose $10,000 on the deal. I'll list it on Craiglist or similar once I have my new MX but I won't let it go for cheap. I'd rather keep it and let friend's use it as needed than trade or sell it at a big loss.

with the current market you’ll likely be able to get close to retail on a low hours unit like that if are willing to wait a couple weeks for the right buyer.

 

[nota4re]

Did you consider a new Kioti - specifically the DK5510SECH or the DK6010SECH? I think these are the direct competition for the MX, albeit potentially at a lower cost point. (I've not done the in-person comparison so I'm not here to say which is better.)

The Kioti DOES come with several things that are on your add-on list, namely;

• Side mirrors
• Rear defogger
• Rear wiper kit
• Rear work lights
• 130A alternator
• (One) rear remotes
• Rod indicator kit

The Kioti bests the MX in loader lift capacity by a small margin (2275 vs 2474) and by a larger margin on 3-pt lift capacity (2310 vs 2716).

Anyway, sound like you have a done deal with the MX which I am sure will be great for you.

 

[skeets]

Im not sure if you have any low hanging trees,, if you get my drift

 

[mcmxi]

Did you consider a new Kioti - specifically the DK5510SECH or the DK6010SECH? I think these are the direct competition for the MX, albeit potentially at a lower cost point. (I've not done the in-person comparison so I'm not here to say which is better.)

I've put down a deposit but that doesn't mean I'm locked into another Kubota. I did look at Kioti but not the models you list. There are so many unknowns for me with Kioti which makes me hesitant to purchase a tractor from them. I'm very familiar with Kubota and have had an extremely positive experience with their products and the folks at the dealership, which conveniently is about 3 miles from my house.

If I knew that I'd be keeping two tractors indefinitely I'd probably choose a shuttle shift model, but since the plan is to only have one, an HST is better for what I need to do.

Three point lift capacity is probably not a big deal either since I'm only lifting implements of around 1,000 lb max.

One of the problems is that I don't know anyone that has a Kioti but in addition to my own experience with three Kubota products, I have friends that have an M7060, another has a Grand L and another has an L, all with cabs and all without issues. It's hard to move away from Kubota.

 

[mcmxi]

Im not sure if you have any low hanging trees,, if you get my drift

No, so I'm not worried about the external mirrors if that's what your alluding too. They can be rotated out of the way if necessary. The MX comes with a nice interior rear view mirror which will be useful.

 

[hedgerow]

I looked at a two year old used MX-4800 with eighty hours on it. His price was close enough to what I paid for the new MX-6000 that I found that it made no sense to buy used. It took him a month or so to get his price but he did. I think you will have no problem selling your MX-6000 for closer to what you paid for it.

 

[Jchonline]

M7060 cab is so quiet. We love it for lots of field work.

 

[RCW]

with the current market you’ll likely be able to get close to retail on a low hours unit like that if are willing to wait a couple weeks for the right buyer.

Just today at work I was collecting some CPI/Inflationary statistics for a project.

Don't hold me to exact, but new passenger vehicles up 4+%....used passenger vehicles up 45%.

Can't find new, so ya' think used prices go up?!?!? Similar stats probably hold true for tractors.

That $10k depreciation when leaving the lot when bought is tough, but if there was a time to soften that loss, this is it....

I'm thinking the same as Newaterman....

Good luck in your endeavor!

 

[mcmxi]

Just today at work I was collecting some CPI/Inflationary statistics for a project.

Don't hold me to exact, but new passenger vehicles up 4+%....used passenger vehicles up 45%.

Can't find new, so ya' think used prices go up?!?!? Similar stats probably hold true for tractors.

That $10k depreciation when leaving the lot when bought is tough, but if there was a time to soften that loss, this is it....

I'm thinking the same as Newaterman....

Good luck in your endeavor!

Thanks! My MX is about $2,500 more today to buy new compared to what I paid in February but I absolutely agree with @hedgerow and his comment about buying new vs. used. Given Kubota financing and the marginal difference in cost it does make sense to buy a new tractor if it's available. That might be a problem when it comes to selling the MX but the worst case is that I have two tractors for a lot longer than I thought. My biggest concern now is not buying a power shuttle type tractor for ground work and having an HST for dirt work and a power shuttle for mowing and cultivating type work. As I mentioned, if I'm only going to have one, it would be the HST, but if I'm "stuck" with two for years I would rather have both types of transmission.

I like the guys at the local dealership and consider many of them friends and I feel a little bad for them because they want to help me out but can't. All I can say is that I hope other members do a better job than I did at buying a tractor. I thought I was buying the best tractor for me but didn't figure on some variables such as this being the hottest summer I've ever experienced up here, and the amount of dust and pulverized vegetation that I'd be exposed to.

 

[hedgerow]

I do a lot of batwing mowing every year normally put around 200 hours on that tractor mowing. We like our farms looking nice. I mowed for years on a open tractor. Didn't want to use my good cab tractors for mowing. Then ten years ago I bought a JD 4440 with a cab and it lives on the batwing from spring until winter. If you are going to do a lot of bush hogging you will love the cab. My MX-6000 will probably never be on a bush hog. It will mostly be used for spot spraying a light loader work. I would buy the MX-6000 with the cab with HST and not the shuttle shift. The HST is just too handy. You will have no problem selling the one with out the cab.

 

[PaulL]

I thought I was buying the best tractor for me but didn't figure on some variables such as this being the hottest summer I've ever experienced up here, and the amount of dust and pulverized vegetation that I'd be exposed to.

I don't think there's any such thing as "the best tractor for me." There's maybe "the best tractor for me today, knowing what I know right now, and doing the things I want to do today." But you may get more information tomorrow, what you're doing may change etc etc. The good news is that, as you're finding, it's really not that expensive to change tractors - they hold their value well.

I think that people who attempt to forecast their future needs and buy a tractor that the might want some time in the future, and spec it with a bunch of options that they might use at some point in the future, end up buying things they didn't actually need. Much better to buy what you'll use today, and then buy something different if your needs change in the future. I'd say there's far more people who spec'd 3 rear remotes and never used them ("wasting" about $2-3K) than there are people who bought a too small tractor and had to upgrade. Although there's a lot of both.

 

[mcmxi]

I do a lot of batwing mowing every year normally put around 200 hours on that tractor mowing. We like our farms looking nice. I mowed for years on a open tractor. Didn't want to use my good cab tractors for mowing. Then ten years ago I bought a JD 4440 with a cab and it lives on the batwing from spring until winter. If you are going to do a lot of bush hogging you will love the cab. My MX-6000 will probably never be on a bush hog. It will mostly be used for spot spraying a light loader work. I would buy the MX-6000 with the cab with HST and not the shuttle shift. The HST is just too handy. You will have no problem selling the one with out the cab.

I have a lot of spraying to do too and the idea of being in a cab is more appealing than potentially being exposed to dangerous chemicals.

My understanding is that tasks such as pulling a plow or other hay-related heavy implements in larger fields is where the power shuttle shift type transmissions come into their own.

 

[mcmxi]

I don't think there's any such thing as "the best tractor for me." There's maybe "the best tractor for me today, knowing what I know right now, and doing the things I want to do today." But you may get more information tomorrow, what you're doing may change etc etc. The good news is that, as you're finding, it's really not that expensive to change tractors - they hold their value well.

I think that people who attempt to forecast their future needs and buy a tractor that the might want some time in the future, and spec it with a bunch of options that they might use at some point in the future, end up buying things they didn't actually need. Much better to buy what you'll use today, and then buy something different if your needs change in the future. I'd say there's far more people who spec'd 3 rear remotes and never used them ("wasting" about $2-3K) than there are people who bought a too small tractor and had to upgrade. Although there's a lot of both.

Excellent points! We can only make the best decision at the time given what we know. Five years of mowing a small area, moving dirt around and blowing snow with a BX pushed me in the wrong direction.

I'm using two of the rear remotes for the top-n-tilt and added the third so that I can add a cylinder to the rear LP blade (all mounting holes are there already) and add hydraulic elevation to the scarifiers on the EA box blade.

 

[Jchonline]

I have a lot of spraying to do too and the idea of being in a cab is more appealing than potentially being exposed to dangerous chemicals.

My understanding is that tasks such as pulling a plow or other hay-related heavy implements in larger fields is where the power shuttle shift type transmissions come into their own.

M7060 has the power shuttle type gear transmission. It is very smooth and easy to use. Highly recommended for field work. I don't love it for a bunch of back and forth dirt or timber moving stuff....but we don't really have much of that on the TX farm.

 

[mcmxi]

M7060 has the power shuttle type gear transmission. It is very smooth and easy to use. Highly recommended for field work. I don't love it for a bunch of back and forth dirt or timber moving stuff....but we don't really have much of that on the TX farm.

That's what the dealer keeps telling me. Most of my work is back and forth with dirt and rocks, grading, fixing the driveway, dragging logs around and mowing, tasks that are perhaps better suited to the HST.

 

[Jchonline]

That's what the dealer keeps telling me. Most of my work is back and forth with dirt and rocks, grading, fixing the driveway, dragging logs around and mowing, tasks that are perhaps better suited to the HST.

Some will disagree but I much prefer geared for mowing. I don't like HST cruise control in turns, and geared ensures consistent speed for a consistent cut.

 

[MOOTS]

I didn’t think the MX6000 came in a shuttle.