Do the BX rear remotes (kits BX2419, BX7376...) have a float position?

[ejb11235]

Does anybody have one of these rear-remote kits installed on their BX?

Do they have a float position, or just up, down, and stay-where-you-are?

 

[Ping]

On my 2370, it is only up and down, no float option was available that I am aware of. If you need float, you'll have to hold or tie that lever down.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: If you need float, you'll have to hold or tie that lever down.

pretty sure that's not 'float'

say you hold in the 'up' position,the cylinder is forced to one end and HELD there 'forever'.
'float' allows the piston to move(think a bucket 'floating' along the bumpy ground, follows the contours of the land.

now there may be a bolt-on compatible valve assembly that could be used to replace the original....
suggest it to Kubota and get one free for 'thank you for your idea' !

 

[ejb11235]

Yeah, that's not float ... that's "continual power down"

The reason I ask about float is that I have been getting all hot and bothered about eventually installing the Kubota rear remote kit, probably for the main purpose of top-and-tilt, or at least "top". Last night I was watching videos and the guy was talking about sometimes you want to put the hydraulic top link in float mode. An interesting mod would be to install a solenoid valve that could put the hydraulics into float mode.

 

[ve9aa]

Newbie tractor owner here.........(grain of salt; all that) but on your 3pt, isn't it pretty much always "float" if in the "all the way down" position?

ie: the 3pt only "lifts" and has no down pressure.

At least, that' s the way I think it works on my 'BX....I've only ever used a back blade and only a few times at that. Is your rear remote to tilt a rear blade (??)

I could be all wet and you're asking about something different with regards to a rear-remote. I didn't understand what rear implement was in play with it.

Just attempting to be helpful !

 

[ejb11235]

Newbie tractor owner here.........(grain of salt; all that) but on your 3pt, isn't it pretty much always "float" if in the "all the way down" position?

ie: the 3pt only "lifts" and has no down pressure.

At least, that' s the way I think it works on my 'BX....I've only ever used a back blade and only a few times at that. Is your rear remote to tilt a rear blade (??)

I could be all wet and you're asking about something different with regards to a rear-remote. I didn't understand what rear implement was in play with it.

Just attempting to be helpful !

Oh I think I see the source of confusion. I'm talking about rear remotes, specifically but not necessarily to drive a hydraulic top link. That's not the same as the 3PT hitch lifts. I'm about to purchase a box blade, and it was suggested that I start thinking about getting hydraulic top and tilt, which until about yesterday I didn't know existed. Having the hydraulic top link allows you to control the angle of attack of the box blade. Apparently a refinement is to have the option to float the hydraulic to link, although I'm not certain exactly when that would be useful.

So, if the Kubota rear remotes don't have a float, and it turns out that I want float (yes, I'm future-tripping), then I would have to figure out what to do. Which I think you can use an ordinary 2-4 valve but hook it up differently, as in:

EDIT: I removed the fancy pants diagram that is totally wrong

 

[ve9aa]

EJB:
I guess I have more questions than answers (LOL) and as stated, I am def. not the one to answer, but in my mind, I cannot imagine why you'd want a float on a rear remote, but I don't have the experience many/most here would have.

Good luck with your query my friend. Someone will know :-D

Cheers from Eastern Canada

-Mike

 

[Dieseldonato]

Typically if any type of float is needed with the top link it's slotted or has some sort of pivot built in it. I really don't see many applications where this would be desirable that doesn't involve some sort of 3 point mounted mower. Most of them (that I've come in contact with) have that feature built in. I can't see it being any sort of good for a blading operation. The tile function sure, it allows attack angle to be changed without getting off the seat. But floating the center link doesn't stand to reason for its use. Can't even say a 3pt disk, harrow, plow, or anything that would benefit from it. Now of its a towed model of equipment i can see where float could be useful. But as far as the 3pt is concerned, nope cant/don't see it.

 

[ejb11235]

Typically if any type of float is needed with the top link it's slotted or has some sort of pivot built in it. I really don't see many applications where this would be desirable that doesn't involve some sort of 3 point mounted mower. Most of them (that I've come in contact with) have that feature built in. I can't see it being any sort of good for a blading operation. The tilt function sure, it allows attack angle to be changed without getting off the seat. But floating the center link doesn't stand to reason for its use. Can't even say a 3pt disk, harrow, plow, or anything that would benefit from it. Now of its a towed model of equipment i can see where float could be useful. But as far as the 3pt is concerned, nope cant/don't see it.

Fantastic. Thanks for the detailed explanation. I will need to do further research. I don't even own a 3pt implement yet, so I'm just soaking up as much info as I can.

EDIT: Ok I just figured out my confusion. I was reading about float functions in rear remotes, and conflated that with my intent to use rear remotes for top-and-tilt, so it became "needing float for top-and-tilt". But I still learned something through this process by @Dieseldonato sharing of info about slots.

 

[NCL4701]

I know nothing useful specific to BX so feel free to stop reading now. I do know hydraulic top link and side link are quite useful for a variety of operations. I also know one of the OEM valves on my L has a float detent. First position had to be center return due to space restrictions. The other two could be center return, float detent, or continuous flow detent. Float and continuous flow were more expensive options. If you go with aftermarket rather than OEM the valves probably won’t mount in the factory slots (assuming you have those on a BX) but you also don’t have the same limits in quantity of remotes or type of remotes available. Hopefully some of those with significant hydraulic expertise will weigh in on viable options.

I find the toplink and sidelink extremely useful for grading work. Angle and tilt changes are a quick wrist flick without leaving the seat and can be done while moving. It’s also helpful for some of the rough area bush hogging I do. Used to crank the toplink all the way in to cross the creek cuts without binding, then crank it back down and remove so it would flex sufficiently, reinstall to mow a few ledges without scalping, crank in again to go home, crank back out to park/disconnect. Even more painful and lengthy to do than it is to read. Now, about 1 second to flip it up for transport, a couple more to gently set it down and push it past the detent to float, pull it back past the detent to hold it up to prevent scalping when the tail wheel is hanging over the ledge, flip it back up to go home. All without leaving the seat or shutting down the tractor. Toplink is also quite useful for loading on a trailer without dragging the rear implement. For grading I’ll often swap the lines to put the float on the sidelink instead of toplink. If you do any significant grading or other 3 point work it’s definitely worth the cost to get the top/tilt setup.

Something like running the chipper or generator, makes no difference whatsoever.

 

[ejb11235]

I find the toplink and sidelink extremely useful for grading work. Angle and tilt changes are a quick wrist flick without leaving the seat and can be done while moving. It’s also helpful for some of the rough area bush hogging I do. Used to crank the toplink all the way in to cross the creek cuts without binding, then crank it back down and remove so it would flex sufficiently, reinstall to mow a few ledges without scalping, crank in again to go home, crank back out to park/disconnect. Even more painful and lengthy to do than it is to read. Now, about 1 second to flip it up for transport, a couple more to gently set it down and push it past the detent to float, pull it back past the detent to hold it up to prevent scalping when the tail wheel is hanging over the ledge, flip it back up to go home. All without leaving the seat or shutting down the tractor. Toplink is also quite useful for loading on a trailer without dragging the rear implement. If you do any significant grading or other 3 point work it’s definitely worth the cost to get the top/tilt setup.

Thank you for the pictures and detailed explanation. I am just soaking up as much information right now as I can.

 

[NCL4701]

Thank you for the pictures and detailed explanation. I am just soaking up as much information right now as I can.

I had been running tractors in various ag, landscaping, firewood production operations for a few decades before getting the Kubota. I didn’t get rear remotes with the initial purchase because: 1) they’re not exactly cheap; 2) I had never run a tractor with hydraulic top/tilt and had no other specific use for rear remotes; 3) when I asked the dealer about cost, it wasn’t any more to do it later than it was to do it with the purchase, so there was no cost benefit doing it up front.

I knew I had some grading projects immediately but thought once those were done, I’d be doing little grading long term. As time went on I realized I was doing touch ups on our roads and trails quite often so I got the remotes and hydraulics for the 3 point about a year after buying the tractor. I had the third remote installed despite not having a specific use for it because the labor was no additional, just part price. Top/tilt would have been awesome for the first push of grading our roads so in that sense I somewhat regret not having it out of the gate. On the other hand, the float detent is useful for me, maybe not so much for others, and I might not have been so insistent on float had I not had some experience grading and bush hogging our place with the turnbuckles for a while.

Point of all that is I love the rear remotes/ top & tilt for what I do now. What I did mostly growing up: plowing, discing, post hole digging, trailer pulling, general carryall; I probably wouldn’t spend the money on them. To me both the remotes and top/tilt are too expensive to get unless you have a use for them and you can add them later if you find a need for them.

If you know you’re going to be boxblading, backblading, landscape raking a good bit I would get them out of the gate. And I would get a float detent again. You can use a float detent like a center return by just never pushing it past the detent, you can make a center return full flow by tying the handle, but you can’t float a center return. If you don’t know what you’ll be using them for, I’d wait on it until you have a reason to do it. Just an opinion…

 

[ejb11235]

If you know you’re going to be boxblading, backblading, landscape raking a good bit I would get them out of the gate. And I would get a float detent again. You can use a float detent like a center return by just never pushing it past the detent, you can make a center return full flow by tying the handle, but you can’t float a center return. If you don’t know what you’ll be using them for, I’d wait on it until you have a reason to do it. Just an opinion…

My first implement is going to be a box blade. I'm in the selection/purchase process right now. A landscape rake is starting to enter my thoughts, but one step at a time. I'll be using the box blade in all manual mode at first, and it will stay that way until I understand how that's limiting me.

My experience with float detents comes from my FEL. By "center return", are you referring to the control lever returning to the center and neutral position? I'm not a 100% sure I know what you mean by "full flow"...it sounds like keeping the control lever in the down or up (or equivalent motion) positions. And it makes sense you can't float a center return because the valve doesn't have the right internal connections ... I've been assuming that a float simply connects both inputs to the cylinder together ... I should pull out the Kubota service manual and look at the diagrams.

thanks!

 

[TheOldHokie]

My first implement is going to be a box blade. I'm in the selection/purchase process right now. A landscape rake is starting to enter my thoughts, but one step at a time. I'll be using the box blade in all manual mode at first, and it will stay that way until I understand how that's limiting me.

My experience with float detents comes from my FEL. By "center return", are you referring to the control lever returning to the center and neutral position? I'm not a 100% sure I know what you mean by "full flow"...it sounds like keeping the control lever in the down or up (or equivalent motion) positions. And it makes sense you can't float a center return because the valve doesn't have the right internal connections ... I've been assuming that a float simply connects both inputs to the cylinder together ... I should pull out the Kubota service manual and look at the diagrams.

thanks!

Float connects both ports on a cylinder to tank. That allows the cylinder and linkage to follow the contour of the ground. Many people think this is important for top and tilt.

Just looking at the pictures of the OEM valve I dont think either spool has a fourth float position. That is consistent with the price which is really exceedingly inexpensive by any measure. At that price lack of float would not be an issue for me.

Dan

 

[NCL4701]

My first implement is going to be a box blade. I'm in the selection/purchase process right now. A landscape rake is starting to enter my thoughts, but one step at a time. I'll be using the box blade in all manual mode at first, and it will stay that way until I understand how that's limiting me.

My experience with float detents comes from my FEL. By "center return", are you referring to the control lever returning to the center and neutral position? I'm not a 100% sure I know what you mean by "full flow"...it sounds like keeping the control lever in the down or up (or equivalent motion) positions. And it makes sense you can't float a center return because the valve doesn't have the right internal connections ... I've been assuming that a float simply connects both inputs to the cylinder together ... I should pull out the Kubota service manual and look at the diagrams.

thanks!

Center return: Push the handle one direction to move cylinder out; other direction to move cylinder in. Spring always returns to center, locking the cylinder in fixed position when you let go.

Float detent: Same as center return except if you push it past a detent in one direction it goes into float mode where the cylinder moves freely in both directions. Once in float mode, it will hold itself there until you pull it back past the detent. Same as the loader boom float.

Continuous flow detent: same as float detent except instead of going into float, the detent position provides continuous flow for running a hydraulic motor, etc.

Edit: And TheOldHokie knows a lot more about this stuff than I do.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Center return: Push the handle one direction to move cylinder out; other direction to move cylinder in. Spring always returns to center, locking the cylinder in fixed position when you let go.

Float detent: Same as center return except if you push it past a detent in one direction it goes into float mode where the cylinder moves freely in both directions. Once in float mode, it will hold itself there until you pull it back past the detent. Same as the loader boom float.

Continuous flow detent: same as float detent except instead of going into float, the detent position provides continuous flow for running a hydraulic motor, etcln

Edit: And TheOldHokie knows a lot more about this stuff than I do.

Not really. That was pretty damn good

Dan

 

[ejb11235]

Float connects both ports on a cylinder to tank. That allows the cylinder and linkage to follow the contour of the ground. Many people think this is important for top and tilt.

Just looking at the pictures of the OEM valve I dont think either spool has a fourth float position. That is consistent with the price which is really exceedingly inexpensive by any measure. At that price lack of float would not be an issue for me.

Dan

Thanks for the clarification on how float works and valves. I just read this thread, in which someone had exactly the same misconception as I. We both thought float works simply by connecting the two ports of the cylinder to each other, as opposed to how it's really done, which is to connect the cylinder ports to the tank. Darn. I agree with you about the price of the Kubota rear remote kit.