DIY rear hydraulics with flail mower vs. dealer install?

[GettingAlong]

I have an MX5200, on ranch-type property, used for road grading, moving logs, operating large chipper (which has its own hydraulics for the chute), etc. I did not install rear hydraulics when purchased - now am looking at hydraulic flail mower for mowing sides of road, clearing meadows, etc. Also thinking of a tip/tilt for improving functionality of the box blade for road grading/ditch clearing/digging.

I have the in-place hydraulics for a front loader and an additional original equipment/installed-when-purchased third function valve for a front grapple. Dealer quoted several thousand dollars to install two sets of rear hydraulics to operate the hydraulic flail mower (about the cost of the mower!). Are there any good options for this I can install? And how hard is it? Am reasonably handy with cars/maintenance, but haven't worked on hydraulics. It looks like this could use the existing third function valve? I don't really understand why is so expensive - seems to be some time for installation and the valves/hoses. Thanks for any advice/experiences. and if this is worth it.

 

[Russell King]

The OEM valves are expensive. I think that on your tractor those would be the “best” option since the would probably mount very easily onto the tractor and look like they were factory installed.

But the installation is easy for hydraulics for the most part. I think that the hard part may be getting wheels and bodywork off to gain access to install the hoses and the valves.

So if you are good at wrenching and can follow instructions you could do it. Hydraulics are pretty much like electrical and just need to be connected correctly. If you get confused with anything there are people on here that could walk you through it and answer your questions.

You can contact your dealers sales team to get the best price for the valves in a kit. This is not parts but whole goods kits, that are normally sold when the tractor is sold but can be purchased any time.

And you can buy aftermarket items to do it yourself. But they won’t mount like the factory ones do.

 

[NCL4701]

Hydraulic top/tilt isn’t cheap even with non-OEM valves, but it is absolutely worth every penny of you do much grading/ditch cleaning/road maintenance. I have three dealer installed OEM’s on my L with dealer installed top/tilt. It’s the most expensive route. Only regret is not getting the remotes and top/tilt sooner.

There are much more cost effective options. I’m confident someone smarter than I will stop in to explain other options in detail.

 

[Survivor]

This guy will fix you right up for whatever tractor you have:

www.tractorinnovations.com

I got a two spool rear remote kit, with everything included, hoses bolt right into the factory hydraulic system just rerouting a couple hoses. Seems like it was $925 for my L2501.

It took me about a half day to install but I was really picky about my hose routing and valve and quick connect location.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I have an MX5200, on ranch-type property, used for road grading, moving logs, operating large chipper (which has its own hydraulics for the chute), etc. I did not install rear hydraulics when purchased - now am looking at hydraulic flail mower for mowing sides of road, clearing meadows, etc. Also thinking of a tip/tilt for improving functionality of the box blade for road grading/ditch clearing/digging.

I have the in-place hydraulics for a front loader and an additional original equipment/installed-when-purchased third function valve for a front grapple. Dealer quoted several thousand dollars to install two sets of rear hydraulics to operate the hydraulic flail mower (about the cost of the mower!). Are there any good options for this I can install? And how hard is it? Am reasonably handy with cars/maintenance, but haven't worked on hydraulics. It looks like this could use the existing third function valve? I don't really understand why is so expensive - seems to be some time for installation and the valves/hoses. Thanks for any advice/experiences. and if this is worth it.

OEM REAR REMOTES

The OEM remote kit uses sectional valves neatly mounted under the seat wirh handles coming up next to the operators right hip. The outlets are push/pull couplers in an OEM housing mpunted on the back. Very neat and operstor friendly but quite pticey.

DIY REAR REMOTES

You can easily daisy chain an off the shelf control valve off your loader valve and mount your own outlets for a fraction of the cost of OEM. The biggest problem is findimg a place to mount the valve that is operator friendly. If you dont want to roll your own various vendors make packaged kits so shop around. Most use electric valves which dont provide the level of control (metering) you get with manual valves.

And finally we come to the Tractor Inovations kits. These are not rear remotes valves. Its a diverter (selector) that lets you toggle the loader valve between the loader cylinders and the rear outlets. Max of one set of rear outlets and probably the crudest, least desirable, and most overpriced solution.

Dan

 

[Survivor]

OEM REAR REMOTES

The OEM remote kit uses sectional valves neatly mounted under the seat wirh handles coming up next to the operators right hip. The outlets are push/pull couplers in an OEM housing mpunted on the back. Very neat and operstor friendly but quite pticey.

View attachment 156256

View attachment 156257

DIY REAR REMOTES

You can easily daisy chain an off the shelf control valve off your loader valve and mount your own outlets for a fraction of the cost of OEM. The biggest problem is findimg a place to mount the valve that is operator friendly. If you dont want to roll your own various vendors make packaged kits so shop around. Most use electric valves which dont provide the level of control (metering) you get with manual valves.

And finally we come to the Tractor Inovations kits. These are not rear remotes valves. Its a diverter (selector) that lets you toggle the loader valve between the loader cylinders and the rear outlets. Max of one set of rear outlets and probably the crudest, least desirable, and most overpriced solution.

Dan

That is not true, my tractorinnovations setup is NOT a diverter.

Mine runs directly off the Power Beyond port on the loader valve, runs to the rear remote valves just like to a backhoe, and then returns pressure to the hydraulic block to feed the three point hitch.

 

[TheOldHokie]

That is not true, my tractorinnovations setup is NOT a diverter.

Mine runs directly off the Power Beyond port on the loader valve, runs to the rear remote valves just like to a backhoe, and then returns pressure to the hydraulic block to feed the three point hitch.

That may be but its not what you linked. Your link was his $600 diverter kit and I could find nothing else on the site. Provide a link and/of picture of what you bought for $1000.

Dan

 

[Survivor]

That may be but its not what you linked. Your link was his $600 diverter kit and I could find nothing else on the site. Provide a link and/of picture of what you bought for $1000.

Dan

The link was supposed to be a generic ink to his website so you could look for whatever you want.

There's a whole section somewhere there under "Power Beyond".

I do now remember there was a push-pull knob diverter off the loader valve that powered a single rear remote (two connecters) that I considered. But then I would only have a single remote and it would tie up the bucket dump just to run my skidding grapple. Plus I need to be looking backwards over my shoulder to run the grapple to catch a log.

Just call Andy and tell him what you have and what you need. He says he will craft a kit for most every tractor. Of course the price may vary according to the number of spools you want, the length of hoses required, and working around a cab.

 

[Survivor]

The link was supposed to be a generic ink to his website so you could look for whatever you want.

There's a whole section somewhere there under "Power Beyond".

I do now remember there was a push-pull knob diverter off the loader valve that powered a single rear remote (two connecters) that I considered. But then I would only have a single remote and it would tie up the bucket dump just to run my skidding grapple. Plus I need to be looking backwards over my shoulder to run the grapple to catch a log.

Just call Andy and tell him what you have and what you need. He says he will craft a kit for most every tractor. Of course the price may vary according to the number of spools you want, the length of hoses required, and working around a cab.

Here's a video for you:
$925 2-Spool Remote Hydraulics for Kubota B & LX Tractors

 

[TheOldHokie]

The link was supposed to be a generic ink to his website so you could look for whatever you want.

There's a whole section somewhere there under "Power Beyond".

I do now remember there was a push-pull knob diverter off the loader valve that powered a single rear remote (two connecters) that I considered. But then I would only have a single remote and it would tie up the bucket dump just to run my skidding grapple. Plus I need to be looking backwards over my shoulder to run the grapple to catch a log.

Just call Andy and tell him what you have and what you need. He says he will craft a kit for most every tractor. Of course the price may vary according to the number of spools you want, the length of hoses required, and working around a cab.

I alreafy have what I need. and have been selling it for longer than Andy. In fact it was put together to demonstrate how easy it is to add proper remotes to a Kubota

Same P40 valve as Andy is now providing and no backhoe outlet nonsense.: The two spool kit costs $295, mounts right next to the loader valve, AND ITS PLUMBED CORRECTLY!!

The rear remote outlets are sold separatly and for an L3501 would cost you $120 per set.

A two spool valve with outlets comes to $550. For another $15 I will throw in a mounting bulkhead for the outlets...

 

[TheOldHokie]

Here's a video for you:
$925 2-Spool Remote Hydraulics for Kubota B & LX Tractors

Saw it already. See my post #10 in this thread for my thoughts.

Dan

 

[McMXi]

I have an MX5200, on ranch-type property, used for road grading, moving logs, operating large chipper (which has its own hydraulics for the chute), etc. I did not install rear hydraulics when purchased - now am looking at hydraulic flail mower for mowing sides of road, clearing meadows, etc. Also thinking of a tip/tilt for improving functionality of the box blade for road grading/ditch clearing/digging.

I have the in-place hydraulics for a front loader and an additional original equipment/installed-when-purchased third function valve for a front grapple. Dealer quoted several thousand dollars to install two sets of rear hydraulics to operate the hydraulic flail mower (about the cost of the mower!). Are there any good options for this I can install? And how hard is it? Am reasonably handy with cars/maintenance, but haven't worked on hydraulics. It looks like this could use the existing third function valve? I don't really understand why is so expensive - seems to be some time for installation and the valves/hoses. Thanks for any advice/experiences. and if this is worth it.

Let me start by saying that I would never own a tractor without top-n-tilt, so are rear remotes worth it .... heck yeah!

I have factory 3rd function, three sets of rear remotes and factory top-n-tilt on both tractors and had the same factory set up on the MX6000HST that I sold when I upgraded to the MX6000HSTC. Personally I like the factory set up, and many of these aftermarket solutions look ... well, aftermarket. I much prefer the look and function of the factory upgrades, but clearly I'm not opposed to adding on functionality but it has to look good as well as function well.

One option would be to buy one factory rear remote ($919 through a sales person and not parts), along with a 2X, 3X or 4X multiplier from Summit Hydraulics and run hoses from the remote into the multiplier. That way, you could use one lever to control top-n-tilt, and if you have a 4X you could also control offset and cutting head rotation of a ditch bank flail mower.

There's no need or reason to operate two cylinders at the same time, so one lever and a switch box, or better yet one lever and a Scorpion control grip would work.