Diverter

[USMCRay1]

Wanting to add rear remotes on my L2502. Would a diverter be better than true rear outputs? Looking for the best bang for my buck. I'm going to do a 3rd function for the front. Also where is the best place to go for hydraulic manual valves and not the electric valves.

 

[Yotekiller]

You could buy this valve, you would also need the PB plug as well. After that, you just need the hoses and fittings. This is what I did for my 2502. You could also buy a 3 spool valve and use one of the spools to run your 3rd function. I used a two spool valve and ran one to the front for my grapple and one to the rear for hyd top link. I had no use for the tilt cylinder but can easily swap over if I did need it.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Wanting to add rear remotes on my L2502. Would a diverter be better than true rear outputs? Looking for the best bang for my buck. I'm going to do a 3rd function for the front. Also where is the best place to go for hydraulic manual valves and not the electric valves.

Short answer - not better and why would you want to go that route? Even more so if adding a third function to the mix

You can put 2 rear remotes on that tractor for less than $500 and maybe two hours work. Biggest issue is deciding on where you want to put the valve.

I did the same as Yotekiller but in reverse. I put the valve up front for third function and ran hoses to the back for rear remotes.

Dan

 

[Chad D.]

If the ONLY thing I ever wanted hydraulic in the rear was a top link, I’d maybe consider a diverter. I’d probably feed it via the FEL curl circuit so I could still easily lift the FEL while using my rear implement that needs top link adjustment.

I don’t think I’d want the FEL 3rd function control anywhere but on the FEL stick. I’m so used to running my grapple and working the jaws with my thumb buttons, it would stink to have to move my hand to another control…

Electric actuated valves are great for things like the grapple. I wouldn’t try to pick up a baby, but I can be pretty gentle with my electric grapple control.

 

[Yotekiller]

If the ONLY thing I ever wanted hydraulic in the rear was a top link, I’d maybe consider a diverter. I’d probably feed it via the FEL curl circuit so I could still easily lift the FEL while using my rear implement that needs top link adjustment.

I don’t think I’d want the FEL 3rd function control anywhere but on the FEL stick. I’m so used to running my grapple and working the jaws with my thumb buttons, it would stink to have to move my hand to another control…

Electric actuated valves are great for things like the grapple. I wouldn’t try to pick up a baby, but I can be pretty gentle with my electric grapple control.

i will have to completely disagree. I couldn’t even imagine reaching forward to the loader stick to adjust my top link. When operating the top link, I am constantly looking backwards watching what I am doing.
concerning the grapple, there is maybe 6” between the loader control and my valve stick and going between the two is seemless and quick. I am operating the grapple non-stop on my tractor and have found my setup to not be limiting whatsoever. I don’t really need curl or raise while operating the grapple lid. I position the lif for what im doing and clamp once I need to. It saves a ton of money this way and is very much worth the trade off.
$500 or less will get you top link AND 3rd function. And it’s so simple to operate either. I also ran connections for the rear tilt and can swap over easily to have top and tilt. No brainer really.

 

[TheOldHokie]

i will have to completely disagree. I couldn’t even imagine reaching forward to the loader stick to adjust my top link. When operating the top link, I am constantly looking backwards watching what I am doing.
concerning the grapple, there is maybe 6” between the loader control and my valve stick and going between the two is seemless and quick. I am operating the grapple non-stop on my tractor and have found my setup to not be limiting whatsoever. I don’t really need curl or raise while operating the grapple lid. I position the lif for what im doing and clamp once I need to. It saves a ton of money this way and is very much worth the trade off.
$500 or less will get you top link AND 3rd function. And it’s so simple to operate either. I also ran connections for the rear tilt and can swap over easily to have top and tilt. No brainer really.
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I think its clear that the better solution is a single spool valve on the loader for 3rd function and another multi spool valve back by the operator for rear remotes.

The plumbing for two valves is basicaly the same as for one valve and the incremental cost for the additional manual third function valve is less than $200.

Dan

 

[Yotekiller]

I think its clear that the better solution is a single spool valve on the loader for 3rd function and another multi spool valve back by the operator for rear remotes.

The plumbing for two valves is basicaly the same as for one valve and the incremental cost for the additional manual third function valve is less than $200.

Dan

you’re the guy who I trust when it comes to this stuff. Are you saying I couldn’t replace my 2 spool with a 3 spool and have it operate all 3 spools, two for rear and one for grapple? My setup operates the top link and grapple so well the way it is. My thought was if I ever wanted to add tilt without swapping lines over, I could just move to a 3 spool valve. Maybe I’m wrong though. The 3 spool only adds roughly $100 to the equation so you get top/tilt and 3rd function for between $5-600. Hard to beat! I don’t miss the loader control grapple switch whatsoever. It’s a nonissue for me.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

you’re the guy who I trust when it comes to this stuff. Are you saying I couldn’t replace my 2 spool with a 3 spool and have it operate all 3 spools, two for rear and one for grapple? My setup operates the top link and grapple so well the way it is. My thought was if I ever wanted to add tilt without swapping lines over, I could just move to a 3 spool valve. Maybe I’m wrong though. The 3 spool only adds roughly $100 to the equation so you get top/tilt and 3rd function for between $5-600. Hard to beat! I don’t miss the loader control grapple switch whatsoever. It’s a nonissue for me.

Yes you can put a three spool right in place of a 2 spool valve and gain another port.

 

[TheOldHokie]

you’re the guy who I trust when it comes to this stuff. Are you saying I couldn’t replace my 2 spool with a 3 spool and have it operate all 3 spools, two for rear and one for grapple? My setup operates the top link and grapple so well the way it is. My thought was if I ever wanted to add tilt without swapping lines over, I front upitcould just move to a 3 spool valve. Maybe I’m wrong though. The 3 spool only adds roughly $100 to the equation so you get top/tilt and 3rd function for between $5-600. Hard to beat! I don’t miss the loader control grapple switch whatsoever. It’s a nonissue for me.

You could replace your 2 spool with a 3 spool for $150 but I would not.

Instead I would add a single spool ($100) to what you have. I would put it up front for the third function and use the two spool for the rear remotes. That puts the third function lever inches from the loader joystick and the two rear remote levers back by the seat. I think thats much more ergonomic and easier to use

Like you I have no real issue with a manual valve for the grapple third function but I do have issue with having it way back on the fender rather than by the joystick.

Dan

 

[Chad D.]

In other words, you’ve got a pile of options that will work! Up to you to determine which fits your tractor, style, and pocketbook the best.