Does anyone doctor up their tractor fuel? This is my first diesel tractor, and thought I would check. I always add Diesel Kleen and 2 stroke oil with every fill up on my truck, and will probably do the same on the 3cyl Kubota. I figure extra lubrication won't hurt since #2 ULSD is all I will be filling up with.
Diesel Fuel additives
- Thread starter Ogre
- Start date
I'm surprised others haven't responded. A small disagreement may be in the offing as you've hit on a lively topic having many opinions.
I'll start: Stanadyne in every tank in summer--increases cetane (similar to octane in gasoline) and lubricity. Recommended by Bosch for their injectors.
In winter, when I store about a hundred gallons at the time (due to weather, e.g., ice storms, preventing trips to town, even if we have to keep moving on the place) I use a mix:
--Winter Fuel Mixture--
Standadyne (double recommended dose)
Sta-Bil (half recommended dose)
Sea Foam (half recommended dose)
Expensive? Maybe. But so is your orange tractor. Compared to one episode of fuel problem(s) and related downtime and cost, I think not too bad. I look at it as cheap insurance and a necessary cost of doing business.
This is where I knock on wood: never had a fuel-related problem in the last 25+ years running diesels. No gelling, no biofouling, no problem whatsoever.
I also double-filter the diesel fuel out of the bulk tank to the machine tank: a sediment bowl with filter and a separate hose-end screw-on 'water-block' filter to polish the last water and catch debris from the fueling hose itself.
A sidelight: As an experiment I stored gasoline in a basic plastic gas can and separately in a pressure vessel (nonvented). I mixed into both batches Sta-Bil only at the recommended dose. I waited one year. Both batches ran fine in two different small engines, plenty of power, no problems with filters or carbs. I'm sold on Sta-Bil. Further aside: buy premium gasoline only in an attempt to avoid alcohol damage to small engines.
You mention adding 2-stroke oil to diesel for lubricity. I see this commonly done. Personally, I wouldn't do it; I don't do it. If you'll use Stanadyne you'll get a better result with less liklihood of damage to the fuel system. I sure wouldn't tell your service dept about adding oil if a warranty repair arises.
If you poke around this site with a search and perhaps one of the informative Articles in the sidebar you'll find a lot more information on fuel admixtures.
Please post back your additional thoughts and practices and experiences so we may all learn.
I'll start: Stanadyne in every tank in summer--increases cetane (similar to octane in gasoline) and lubricity. Recommended by Bosch for their injectors.
In winter, when I store about a hundred gallons at the time (due to weather, e.g., ice storms, preventing trips to town, even if we have to keep moving on the place) I use a mix:
--Winter Fuel Mixture--
Standadyne (double recommended dose)
Sta-Bil (half recommended dose)
Sea Foam (half recommended dose)
Expensive? Maybe. But so is your orange tractor. Compared to one episode of fuel problem(s) and related downtime and cost, I think not too bad. I look at it as cheap insurance and a necessary cost of doing business.
This is where I knock on wood: never had a fuel-related problem in the last 25+ years running diesels. No gelling, no biofouling, no problem whatsoever.
I also double-filter the diesel fuel out of the bulk tank to the machine tank: a sediment bowl with filter and a separate hose-end screw-on 'water-block' filter to polish the last water and catch debris from the fueling hose itself.
A sidelight: As an experiment I stored gasoline in a basic plastic gas can and separately in a pressure vessel (nonvented). I mixed into both batches Sta-Bil only at the recommended dose. I waited one year. Both batches ran fine in two different small engines, plenty of power, no problems with filters or carbs. I'm sold on Sta-Bil. Further aside: buy premium gasoline only in an attempt to avoid alcohol damage to small engines.
You mention adding 2-stroke oil to diesel for lubricity. I see this commonly done. Personally, I wouldn't do it; I don't do it. If you'll use Stanadyne you'll get a better result with less liklihood of damage to the fuel system. I sure wouldn't tell your service dept about adding oil if a warranty repair arises.
If you poke around this site with a search and perhaps one of the informative Articles in the sidebar you'll find a lot more information on fuel admixtures.
Please post back your additional thoughts and practices and experiences so we may all learn.
I use Opti-Lube XPD. It rates very high in tests.
http://opti-lube.com/diesel-fuel-improver/xpd-diesel-fuel-improver/xpd-diesel-fuel-improver-product.html
There is a link to one independent test on the Opti-Lube page above. It also lists other brands as well as motor oil and 2-cycle oil IIRC.
http://opti-lube.com/diesel-fuel-improver/xpd-diesel-fuel-improver/xpd-diesel-fuel-improver-product.html
There is a link to one independent test on the Opti-Lube page above. It also lists other brands as well as motor oil and 2-cycle oil IIRC.
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Thanks for the response. I know Stanadyne is good stuff. I'm sold on the 2-stroke, though. I have an '03 GMC, and (knock on wood) I haven't replaced injectors yet. I recently started seafoam in the fuel filter for the "hot soak" method. I too, like Seafoam, I'm going to do that every fuel filter change. Have you done that on your Kubota?
Lil Foot
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
Because my tractor is usually used & stored in the mountains, during freezing
temperatures I use Power Service just to stop gelling- other than that, no additives.
temperatures I use Power Service just to stop gelling- other than that, no additives.
My thoughts fall right in line with Stubbyie. Stanadyne is the only manufacturer of additives that also manufactures fuel injection equipment. I've used it in all of my diesel equipment for years. I also like the idea of extra filtration so I used a funnel with a seperator and run extra filtration on my truck. And I'm trying to figure out how to run extra filtration on my tractor. Good luck!
Two aspects arise from this string of responses to the original poster.
1. Sea Foam Hot Soak
I have not used the Sea Foam 'hot soak' method of applying the product to the supposed carbon buildup in the tractor engine. I've seen nothing that indicates a need.
I have tried this process in small gasoline engines by filling the float bowl and also by pouring gently down the carb throat. Other than an unGodly white smoke cloud and difficulty immediatly restarting (cured by cleaning the plug(s)) I couldn't tell any difference.
Results reminded me of the same outcome using Marvel Mystery Oil.
2. Supplemental fuel filtration.
The Kubota sediment bowl and paper element filter seem to be working for me, much the same as on '55 Ferguson (bowl, not paper element). Hard to beat gravity being allowed to work.
Otherwise, if you can find room in these compact little guys and a way into the fuel line, why not install a $3 clear plastic golf-ball sized disposable filter? Note these little filters won't stand pressure, gravity feed only.
Even better, at the same time install a plastic Briggs-style fuel shutoff valve on both sides of the disposable filter. When it comes time to change the filter, close the valves, change filter, and fill the new filter with fuel, open valves, and I'll bet she'll light right off without having to bleed air.
This is akin to filling the OEM filter bowl when a new paper element filter is installed. Even on old greens and whites I've not had to bleed air when changing a fuel filter if I'm careful and keep everything well wetted along with minimal air intrusion. Even on canister-type fuel filters, just like oil filters, load the filter before installing.
Please post back with your experiences so we may all learn.
1. Sea Foam Hot Soak
I have not used the Sea Foam 'hot soak' method of applying the product to the supposed carbon buildup in the tractor engine. I've seen nothing that indicates a need.
I have tried this process in small gasoline engines by filling the float bowl and also by pouring gently down the carb throat. Other than an unGodly white smoke cloud and difficulty immediatly restarting (cured by cleaning the plug(s)) I couldn't tell any difference.
Results reminded me of the same outcome using Marvel Mystery Oil.
2. Supplemental fuel filtration.
The Kubota sediment bowl and paper element filter seem to be working for me, much the same as on '55 Ferguson (bowl, not paper element). Hard to beat gravity being allowed to work.
Otherwise, if you can find room in these compact little guys and a way into the fuel line, why not install a $3 clear plastic golf-ball sized disposable filter? Note these little filters won't stand pressure, gravity feed only.
Even better, at the same time install a plastic Briggs-style fuel shutoff valve on both sides of the disposable filter. When it comes time to change the filter, close the valves, change filter, and fill the new filter with fuel, open valves, and I'll bet she'll light right off without having to bleed air.
This is akin to filling the OEM filter bowl when a new paper element filter is installed. Even on old greens and whites I've not had to bleed air when changing a fuel filter if I'm careful and keep everything well wetted along with minimal air intrusion. Even on canister-type fuel filters, just like oil filters, load the filter before installing.
Please post back with your experiences so we may all learn.
Here's a link to some interesting facts/history of oil filters.
Important to remember, if you fill a spin-on filter with fuel, oil or any other product the fluid you pour into the filter does not get filtered before it is sent through the system!
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/297.cfm
Important to remember, if you fill a spin-on filter with fuel, oil or any other product the fluid you pour into the filter does not get filtered before it is sent through the system!
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/297.cfm