Delco Remy Starter Restoration - - 1953 Minneapolis Moline, and many others.....

[RCW]

David- - thanks again for the guidance!

I’ve got this foolish “work” thing that gets in my way. Hopefully will get back to it some after work this week.

 

[RCW]

Regarding the length of the new drive gear: I would get some red or blue "Dykem" (steel layout fluid) and
mark/paint the drive gear teeth with it before installation on the tractor. After a couple of starts of the tractor, remove the starter and check for proper tooth alignment, mesh, etc. You should be able to tell by
the marks left on the Dykem. You could even use some water based paint instead of the dykem.

If you google "shimming a starter" or on Youtube there's bound to be videos on that process.

I'm taking things out of my original order....just as I get to them.

As far as shimming, pinion gear depth, etc., I don't think there's any room for adjustment.

This starter is mounted by one tapered "set screw" into the "barrel/housing" the starter slides into. The set screw engages a corresponding tapered hole in the nose cone of the starter. The set screw is part #45 in the diagram.

This is a picture I pulled off tractordata of a ZA. Birddogger - Your family's U would have been similar. The starter on this tractor is black, and directly below the battery cable, carb and governor. You can see the set screw and jam nut in the photo:

The fore/aft movement of the nose cone isn't possible. Odd thing is my nose cone has 2 holes in the nose cone, which would allow some rotation...that concerns me as there's not supposed to be 2 holes.

I wasn't clear earlier, but the tractor is an hour drive away. So all I have here is the starter....

 

[RCW]

I finished rounding off the original set screw myself when I took the starter off.

It’s just a 5/8-11 bolt with a lock/jam nut.

They’re not to be found OEM, and a JD was $18 in poorer shape.

My replacement actually fits in the cone better. Maybe 50 cents. Should I use grade 2 or 5 instead of 8?

 

[RCW]

I think I have a better understanding of how the Bendix mounts to the shaft.
The end cap slides 1/2” or so on the shaft. It’s actually held in place by the nose cone.

New one:

Here’s the internal part of the new Bendix. Looks like one of the set screws is tight to the motor shaft, the other to the shaft of the Bendix proper. A Woodruff key in there, that I can’t see yet on the old Bendix.

 

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The commutator cover band is a mess. Been swatted a few times and rusty. I would have a couple hours trying to fix it up.

For $19, I couldn’t pass it up.

 

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Hope it’s decent paint, as I got a case of 6. $40 plus tax and shipping.

Won’t paint the tractor with a rattle can, but at least the parts I have off it.

Not sounding like the paint police, but the tractor was painted a non-OEM color for the model. The color is a MM color, but not correct.

This is original color (I hope). At least starter will be correct, but I might just paint it black...we’ll see.

 

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Finished cleaning up the brush assembly.
Everything is free and appears good. Used electric cleaner, that’s caused a little rust.
Thinking of some light oil on the springs?

 

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Opened my redneck paint booth after some rigorous time with a die grinder and cupped wire wheel.

Heck, it’s a cast engine part....not looking for a mirror finish.

Guessing the nose cone should not be painted, but I can strip that off easily if needed.

I did mask off the ID tag on the starter. It was painted over, but wanted it readable this trip.

I did not replace the switch.

Hope that wasn't a mistake. Didn't see an identical replacement part, but didn't look for one closely.

 

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Began to pull old Bendix off.
Looks like key is solid in there. Gave it a shot of PB Blaster and let it sit.
Will try to tap it from the outer side to jar it loose after it sits.

 

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Guys - - - I need help.

The hub in the last pictures doesn't want to give. It's the hub of the old Bendix that mounts to the rotor shaft.

There's a key in there. The key is 90 degrees from where the set screw was.

I can’t see it from the rotor side. Just not enough room.

The key-way groove in the hub was boogered up from one side when I opened the starter up. I'm not pulling it in that direction that it would be a problem.....

The collar/hub with move 1/2" or so along the shaft, so it's not frozen. It will also rotate a couple degrees.

I have doused it with penetrating oil -- PB Blaster.

I don't have a gear puller that can get on it...

Jeepers - if anyone has a suggestion, I'm all ears....You can't get another one of these rotors......

This is the problem:

 

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Iff’n I can get a small set of channel-locks in there, I’ll stand stand It up and beat the snot out of it....
Got the perfect 3 pound hammer...

 

[bird dogger]

Nice progress, RCW. Just a thought here: Can you just mate the parts of the new bendix (remove the new collar) up to that old collar? After putting your new set screw in check for any play. If there is no unreasonable play or movement.....you might be able to leave that original collar/key arrangement in place.

Or is there some difference in the new bendix that would prevent that? If there was excessive movement with the old bendix in place then replacing everything would be best. But if there wasn't, you might not need to. Before it takes too extreme measures to remove it and possibly damage the shaft it might be best just to reuse it if possible.

edit: Anybody nearby have a stout arbor press or even a small hydraulic press?

 

[RCW]

Nice progress, RCW. Just a thought here: Can you just mate the parts of the new bendix (remove the new collar) up to that old collar

Hmmm....great idea. Will have a look at that.

Have some buddies with presses also.

I wanted a slide hammer for a long while. Might be handy here.

Tough part is that I think it’s just a 60+ year old Woodruff key being a PITA.

Don’t want to frig that shaft up by brute force.

Marrying the new Bendix avoids that.

Thanks so much again for the advice!

 

[RCW]

Looked at it tonight.

Hubs are not even close.

The heads on the locking bolts on new Steiner Bendix are not 5/8, not 11/16", but 16mm. So guessing metric thread as well???

Got a little disenchanted, so didn't take a picture....

Within 3 minutes Dad calls, "how you making out with the starter?!?!" Told him having a little issue with the Bendix shaft mount. Don't worry, I'll get it figured out...

Geez.... No issue with the Steiner Bendix. Seems perfect and I didn't verify if metric threads or not.

Thinking:

A. Fashion a 6"+ cradle between the hub and mounting plate. Put it in my bench press, with the cradle holding the rotor vertical, with the end of the shaft upward....hit it with a BFH. Note to self: make sure entire rotor doesn't hit the floor.

B. Make a 2-part fitting to surround the shaft between the hub and motor/rotor assembly. Either (1) hook it to a slide hammer (don't own one), or (2) fashion another fitting to attach a hydraulic bottle jack (I have 3 of these).

 

[RCW]

The heads on the locking bolts on new Steiner Bendix are not 5/8, not 11/16", but 16mm. So guessing metric thread as well???

I lied.

Thinking just some odd- sized heads on the set screws. 16mm doesn’t fit well either.
21/32 is fine, and the set screws do thread fine and the barrel is fine on the 5/8” shaft.

So it’s all SAE and not metric. Good news.

I broke down and ordered a bearing puller that I think will fit.

After talking to a long-time car guy today, keeping my options open. He also gave some pointers on removal.

I will try to pull the hub off to replace Bendix, but may be open to cleaning the old Bendix up and putting back on it.

 

[bird dogger]

Looked at it tonight.

Hubs are not even close.

The heads on the locking bolts on new Steiner Bendix are not 5/8, not 11/16", but 16mm. So guessing metric thread as well???

Got a little disenchanted, so didn't take a picture....

Within 3 minutes Dad calls, "how you making out with the starter?!?!" Told him having a little issue with the Bendix shaft mount. Don't worry, I'll get it figured out...

Geez.... No issue with the Steiner Bendix. Seems perfect and I didn't verify if metric threads or not.

Thinking:

A. Fashion a 6"+ cradle between the hub and mounting plate. Put it in my bench press, with the cradle holding the rotor vertical, with the end of the shaft upward....hit it with a BFH. Note to self: make sure entire rotor doesn't hit the floor.

B. Make a 2-part fitting to surround the shaft between the hub and motor/rotor assembly. Either (1) hook it to a slide hammer (don't own one), or (2) fashion another fitting to attach a hydraulic bottle jack (I have 3 of these).

Dang!! I was hoping we were onto a more simple solution. too much of a wishful thought. Nothing's ever simple anymore.
david

 

[RCW]

Bearing separator/puller delivered today.

Fit just fine. The hub fought it some, but it pulled off just fine.

I have several pullers but none fit....best to have the proper tool....

As long as I was at it, I bought a slide hammer too. Had several instances over the years wished I had one.

Will replace key; seems to have some wear. Should be an easy size, but might need cutting for length.

Will also polish end of the shaft up with some sand paper and steel wool.

 

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Definitely looks worn.

Thinking a new key should be easy enough to get at a couple local places.

 

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It's ready to go, but haven't had time to put it back together.

Need to polish motor shaft a little more with 800-grit paper. Couple small "ripples."

I'm still undecided about re-using the old Bendix, or just putting the new one on. The old one had a loose mounting bolt.... The old one is soaking in some PB Blaster, still needs some cleanup if I use it.

Probably foolish questions, but I'd like to lube everything up when assembling...

Would a shot of dry telfon lube be okay on the brush-holder springs?

What should I use on the shaft/Bendix proper? Fluid Film doesn't attract dirt/dust...light oil (3 in 1)?...other?

It also has a shaft oiler on the cap-end of the motor (no bearings). Just a squirt of motor oil?

Gosh, I spent less time replacing the governor and fabricating a redneck adjustable linkage....tough to custom-fit a governor rod when the tractor is an hour away....

 

[RCW]

Haven't had much time to work on it, but we're getting there.

More paper on the shaft....still had some ripples. You can still see some marks, but it's smooth to the touch. Will probably lube it with the Lithium grease before Bendix goes on.

One of the through-bolts that hold the end-cap/brushes to the nosecone broke a nut.

They're actually just 1/4" rod with threaded ends. I made some new ones, just a little longer. .

Hoping to get all together this weekend, and head over to my folks next weekend and put it back in the tractor.