Hello. I have a 1994 LA2900. I’ve had a bad shuttle shift switch for some time now. I’ve been bypassing by connecting the wires from the switch to get the tractor to start. Yesterday I may have shorted something. When trying to start I got a buzz sound and then nothing. The sound was coming from the area of the ignition. Now it’s completely dead. No light, no sound, or anything when I try to start. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. I’m not great at diagnosing issues nor am I mechanic but this tractor seems relatively east to work on so far. Appreciate the help?
Dead tractor
- Thread starter Acrob
- Start date
Russell King
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Start looking for a main fuse or looped wire (fuse) near the battery or starter.
go to Kubota books dot com and find a wire schematic
go to Kubota books dot com and find a wire schematic
It was suggested earlier to obtain a wiring diagram and multimeter and you replaced a relay and a switch. You still need the diagram and meter. The smartest mechanics on earth rely on diagrams and meters unless they know from experience exactly how the tractor is wired but the meter is still necessary unless mechanic wings it with a test light. By your own admission " I’m not great at diagnosing issues nor am I mechanic" so the chances of someone telling you how to fix this is slim unless you can test circuits. Some joker always shows up and advises to check this and check that so I'll go ahead and get that out of the way. Test battery and if not fully charged,charge and test again. Check battery cab.les and all wires for breaks,poor conections and corrosion. Clean battery cable ends,battery posts, surface where ground cable connects to engine block,posts on solinoid and all wire connectors bright and shiny. Check all relays and switches to make certain none are bad. Do all that and odds are very good tractor fires up without hesitation. If not see questions below.
What did wires serve that you "MAY HAVE SHORTED" serve? How did you asertain that ALL fuses are good? Is 12 volts coming into fuse holders? Is 12 volts coming out of all fuse holders? Did you test fusable link? Does wire with spade terminal on starter solinoid have 12 vots while attempting to start? That should keep you busy for a while,let us know the results.
Thanks for your time. I did pick up a multi meter and am currently figuring out how to use it. I also have a wire diagram now. But yes this is all new to me.
I do have 12 volts coming from the battery to the starter. And i was able to jump it from the starter.
So i'm thinking the issue is between the starter and the ignition. Main fuse is also good.
I was bypassing the switch on the shifter when this happened. That switch went bad months ago and I would just connect the ends to get her to start. Heard a buzz behind the dash and then I got nothing after that. Unless i put a jump pack to the started then if will fire.
Great. In light of you being new to the game I have suggestions. Look at paperwork or meter to see if it is fused. If not you must be extra carful not touching live wire while meter is set to resistance. I think most of us blew up a couple of meters before learning that lesson. Be extremely aware while bypassing safty switches,jumping starter posts and troubleshooting. The tractor can run you over in the blink of an eye if something unexpected makes contact causing starter to engage. You will be far better off permanently bypassing rather than fiddling around switches at each start up. Even better idea to have all new functional safty switches.
Hi @Acrob Like my L35, the shuttle and PTO also have lockout switches. As you likely know, the PTO must be disengaged to start and the shuttle must be in neutral position.
Wires can be insidious. They can rot from the inside (copper gets green and brittle). Make sure you really follow them and look for chafing and broken leads.
To check switches, set the multimeter to Continuity test ( which makes a sound).
Disconnect the switch wires from the tractor and connect the meter across the switch wires. when you activate the switch, you will hear a tone from the meter.
Depending upon the switch type, clicking the switch may make a circuit (you hear a sound), or clicking the switch may stop the circuit (no sound)
I am looking at the parts diagram,but the wiring will show safety switches, etc.
This looks like a switch but it isnt referenced in this diagram
Sounds like you found the Shuttle Switch
Here's Messicks view - check this out on their site and you will see other electrical parts like Timer, Relay, etc
Wires can be insidious. They can rot from the inside (copper gets green and brittle). Make sure you really follow them and look for chafing and broken leads.
To check switches, set the multimeter to Continuity test ( which makes a sound).
Disconnect the switch wires from the tractor and connect the meter across the switch wires. when you activate the switch, you will hear a tone from the meter.
Depending upon the switch type, clicking the switch may make a circuit (you hear a sound), or clicking the switch may stop the circuit (no sound)
I am looking at the parts diagram,but the wiring will show safety switches, etc.
This looks like a switch but it isnt referenced in this diagram
Sounds like you found the Shuttle Switch
Here's Messicks view - check this out on their site and you will see other electrical parts like Timer, Relay, etc
Quite possable to jump start and use tractor all day without an ignition switch if fuel is gravity fed,more so with a fonky switch.
Yes, the ignition switch on that machine is simple and ignorant to the old screw driver trick at the starter.
What does concern me is the"buzzing" noise you heard behind the dash. Noises like that can mean a short, partial continuity, etc. I'd test the ignition switch, check for any wire damage from rodents, and test the reaming parts of the starting system circuit that supply 12V to the solenoid when the switch is turned to the "start" position
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GreensvilleJay
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'simple starting system' ,so simple they forgot to label the starter relay in the diagram....sigh..
query. when you 'bypassed to start', did you bypass the safety switches so that power went from ign switch to the starter relay OR jumperd +12 at starter battery lug to the small 'control' lug ?
It is possible that the glow plug controller could be 'bad'. A partial failure could result in starter relay not getting full voltage/current and the 'buzzing' heard under the dash.
'buzzing' source could also be the starter relay not getting proper power due to corroded wires or connections. How old is the beastie ??
query. when you 'bypassed to start', did you bypass the safety switches so that power went from ign switch to the starter relay OR jumperd +12 at starter battery lug to the small 'control' lug ?
It is possible that the glow plug controller could be 'bad'. A partial failure could result in starter relay not getting full voltage/current and the 'buzzing' heard under the dash.
'buzzing' source could also be the starter relay not getting proper power due to corroded wires or connections. How old is the beastie ??
Greensvillejay has made what I consider an excellent suggestion that there may be a starter relay in the circuit. I found this to be true on my tractor and wrote about it and the ridiculous price Kubota wanted for that relay ($90) and how I fixed it for less than $4.
This link is direct to the solution…but to get the troubleshooting part of the story you’ll have to read the entire thread from the start:
www.orangetractortalks.com
This link is direct to the solution…but to get the troubleshooting part of the story you’ll have to read the entire thread from the start:
Search results for query: I LOVE IT ...when things happen like this!
www.orangetractortalks.com
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Its a 94. I was just bypassing the safety switch in the shifter ( unplugged from switch and touched the wires together. then I was able to start with key). I replaced the starter relay and nothing. I think the buzzing could be coming from the glow plug controller. How would I test that?
@Acrob I hope I get what you're asking... let me try here... You may need a second person to help.
Set your meter to DC in a 12V range.
Connect your meter to the tractor frame (bare metal) with the (Black) negative test meter probe, then touch the positive (red) lead to a glow plug.
Activate that circuit (Starting) and you should see 12V on each glow plug.
Buzzing can be felt by touching each module under the dash. Glow Controller, glow relay, etc. You can do this of course without removing the entire console. Buzzing as mentioned earlier can be due to bad wiring (incomplete circuit - broken or loose wire to whatever is buzzing).
Looking at the circuit diagram previously added to this thread, there is a relay for the glow plugs because of the large current draw to the plugs. That relay moves the electricity to the plugs when the glow controller says "go".
The controller says "go" based upon water temperature (a hot engine doesn't need the glow plugs) and when the key switch is in "on" position. The controller is designed to control when (and possibly how long) to send current to the glow plugs. A light for glow plugs usually tells you "when" - then you turn the key to "start"
All this of course depends on good wiring and good fuses. If you don't get 12V, and eliminating bad fuses and wires, the glow relay could be bad.
This is not to be confused with the starter relay.
A temp sensor that's not working won't send correct info to the glow controller.
And yes, a bad glow controller is a possibility but I think less probable.
You have to trace the 12V either backward from the glow plugs or forward from the key switch to find the issue.
Set your meter to DC in a 12V range.
Connect your meter to the tractor frame (bare metal) with the (Black) negative test meter probe, then touch the positive (red) lead to a glow plug.
Activate that circuit (Starting) and you should see 12V on each glow plug.
Buzzing can be felt by touching each module under the dash. Glow Controller, glow relay, etc. You can do this of course without removing the entire console. Buzzing as mentioned earlier can be due to bad wiring (incomplete circuit - broken or loose wire to whatever is buzzing).
Looking at the circuit diagram previously added to this thread, there is a relay for the glow plugs because of the large current draw to the plugs. That relay moves the electricity to the plugs when the glow controller says "go".
The controller says "go" based upon water temperature (a hot engine doesn't need the glow plugs) and when the key switch is in "on" position. The controller is designed to control when (and possibly how long) to send current to the glow plugs. A light for glow plugs usually tells you "when" - then you turn the key to "start"
All this of course depends on good wiring and good fuses. If you don't get 12V, and eliminating bad fuses and wires, the glow relay could be bad.
This is not to be confused with the starter relay.
A temp sensor that's not working won't send correct info to the glow controller.
And yes, a bad glow controller is a possibility but I think less probable.
You have to trace the 12V either backward from the glow plugs or forward from the key switch to find the issue.