Cutter blade question

[rquad]

I was bush hogging with my 48 inch Land Pride cutter, and backed into an old mattress spring. It tangled itself up real nice in the blades, but I was able to pull and cut it out. But now my blades are out of kilter and I get a bad vibration if I try to engage the cutter.

I never had occasion to look at the blades before this incident, so I don't know how they're supposed to be positioned - should they point in the same direction like I've seen on some industrial cutters, or should they point in opposition directions? Right now, they're in between, which I assume is the cause of the vibration. The user's manual doesn't address this.

Also, there's a HUGE nut that secures the blades in place. I tried a 36mm socket I used for a truck axle swap, and it's too small. I'm guessing the nut is 2 inch diameter or so. Anyone know the correct size socket for this?

 

[SDT]

I was bush hogging with my 48 inch Land Pride cutter, and backed into an old mattress spring. It tangled itself up real nice in the blades, but I was able to pull and cut it out. But now my blades are out of kilter and I get a bad vibration if I try to engage the cutter.

I never had occasion to look at the blades before this incident, so I don't know how they're supposed to be positioned - should they point in the same direction like I've seen on some industrial cutters, or should they point in opposition directions? Right now, they're in between, which I assume is the cause of the vibration. The user's manual doesn't address this.

Also, there's a HUGE nut that secures the blades in place. I tried a 36mm socket I used for a truck axle swap, and it's too small. I'm guessing the nut is 2 inch diameter or so. Anyone know the correct size socket for this?

The blades must swing freely about their pivot point.

It sounds like wire has wrapped about the blade attachment bolts between the blade and the stump jumper (if equipped).

Remove all of the wire so that the blades can swing freely so that the blades can swing outward once the PTO is engaged.

SDT

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yep what SDT said.
They are self balancing.

 

[Blondie70]

The nuts on my 5' Landpride cutter are 1 13/16". You can measure yours across the flats to make sure.
U will need some 3/4" drive stuff....socket, short extention and a breaker bar and then some cheater pipe. They will come off.
Get the blades to be balanced. Sharpen and get to cutting... I used a home made balance bar to get mine to the same weight.
Good luck

 

[85Hokie]

I was bush hogging with my 48 inch Land Pride cutter, and backed into an old mattress spring. It tangled itself up real nice in the blades, but I was able to pull and cut it out. But now my blades are out of kilter and I get a bad vibration if I try to engage the cutter.

I never had occasion to look at the blades before this incident, so I don't know how they're supposed to be positioned - should they point in the same direction like I've seen on some industrial cutters, or should they point in opposition directions? Right now, they're in between, which I assume is the cause of the vibration. The user's manual doesn't address this.

Also, there's a HUGE nut that secures the blades in place. I tried a 36mm socket I used for a truck axle swap, and it's too small. I'm guessing the nut is 2 inch diameter or so. Anyone know the correct size socket for this?

this the animal you are fighting?????

Those nuts will be a sum-beauch to get off too! As others have said, they should just move freely around that nut/pivot point - if not, something got bent or worse!

https://store.germanbliss.com/land-...-carrier-rcr1542-48-sn-655704-to-669918-parts

 

[rquad]

this the animal you are fighting?????

Those nuts will be a sum-beauch to get off too! As others have said, they should just move freely around that nut/pivot point - if not, something got bent or worse!

https://store.germanbliss.com/land-...-carrier-rcr1542-48-sn-655704-to-669918-parts

That looks like the part. I'll put a tape measure on them, but wanted to verify the exact size because I don't want to spend huge bucks on a full set of large sockets just to get the one right size I need.

Maybe I won't need the socket. From the other posts, it sounds like I might still have something wrapped around the pivot point that I missed - I didn't realize they were self-balancing. I'll check this out before trying to take off that big nut.

Thanks all.

 

[mickeyd]

I used my 24v Kobalt 1/2" impact wrench to change the blades on my LP cutter actually fairly easy.

 

[D2Cat]

Might try raising the 3 point as high as possible and cribb up metal edge on both sides of the mower with some solid WOOD blocking (never use concrete blocks) while attached to the tractor to make it safe to be under it. Crawl back as needed, and check what is causing the interference. You probably missed a bit of the springs someplace. Then cut/pull it out.

I would only remove the nut as an absolute last resort.

 

[mickeyd]

Another thing to check is the bolts holding the gearbox on.

I was very surprised to find the bolts for the gearbox on my cutter loose after a few uses. My impact wrench quickly took care of that and they haven't come loose since.

 

[JerryMT]

Yep what SDT said.
They are self balancing.

I think Wolfman means "self-aligning" not "self balancing". The centrifugal force keeps them aligned in the running position.

 

[SDT]

I used my 24v Kobalt 1/2" impact wrench to change the blades on my LP cutter actually fairly easy.

Bingo.

A GOOD 1/2" impact wrench will R & R just about any rotary cutter blade bolts.

I use a HD air operated one with about 175 PSI and 3/8" air hose. Never found any that it will not remove.

SDT

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I think Wolfman means "self-aligning" not "self balancing". The centrifugal force keeps them aligned in the running position.

Actually both, when they align they balance.