custom rad overflow tank
- Thread starter LRP
- Start date
Good looking overflow tank. Being metal it should also help with additional cooling as well as overflow - good job!!!
Wildfire
Active member
Equipment
Kubota L5740 HSTC3 and a Kubota ZG222Z, 2013 BX25D,Custom Toyota fork lift.
Very nice bit of work there. A coat of paint and one would never know it didn't come with the tractor. Congrats on an outstanding job. Happy New Year!
Dan_R_42
Member
Equipment
B7100-D, w/ Sims Cab, B219 FEL, ARPS 70 Backhoe, Oversized R4 Tires, LX2610 Cab
WOW !!! Super Job LRP... Impressed with your work. What tractor is that mounted on by the way ???
Dan
Dan
LRP -
Nice welding job on the overflow tank. Hey - stupid question - did the "horn" come with your Kubota ??? I guess there might be times you'd want to get someone's attention with a horn on a tractor.
The newer ones don't come with them - do they ??? I wonder how you'd hook one up .....
Nice welding job on the overflow tank. Hey - stupid question - did the "horn" come with your Kubota ??? I guess there might be times you'd want to get someone's attention with a horn on a tractor.
The newer ones don't come with them - do they ??? I wonder how you'd hook one up .....
Dan_R_42
Member
Equipment
B7100-D, w/ Sims Cab, B219 FEL, ARPS 70 Backhoe, Oversized R4 Tires, LX2610 Cab
Hey Louis, after the tank is all painted up are you going to put one of your new decals on it ??? LOL
I was very impressed with your rad neck repair also. Nice solder job & also for thinking out of the box !!! Beats having to drain and remove the rad to repair it.
Also, awesome welding job on your custom tank. Yet again the canary sings. CHEAP, CHEAP, CHEAP. It may have been cheap, but it is very impressive custom work...
Happy New Year to all. Dan
I was very impressed with your rad neck repair also. Nice solder job & also for thinking out of the box !!! Beats having to drain and remove the rad to repair it.
Also, awesome welding job on your custom tank. Yet again the canary sings. CHEAP, CHEAP, CHEAP. It may have been cheap, but it is very impressive custom work...
Happy New Year to all. Dan
thanks guys, now for the rest of the story. i was going to need a very small
tip to fix the rad spout, the smallest i had was #2 which had a .038 thou
hole. so i took my nico press tool thats used for swageing fitting on cable
and swaged the end of a spare #2 tip i had. i then used a small tip
cleaner drill set, .023 to be exact and what a joy to use. thats what i used
to solder the spout and i was in full control all the time. it was fast yet easy to control.
Louis
tip to fix the rad spout, the smallest i had was #2 which had a .038 thou
hole. so i took my nico press tool thats used for swageing fitting on cable
and swaged the end of a spare #2 tip i had. i then used a small tip
cleaner drill set, .023 to be exact and what a joy to use. thats what i used
to solder the spout and i was in full control all the time. it was fast yet easy to control.
Louis
LRP, are the 3 post like covers inside the tank covering the mounting hardware that is behind the tank? And do these prevent the tank sides from partial collapse?
u lost me Brian; here is a pic of the back of the rad, fan side. the top tank
is quite a bit thicker than the core. my rad core is toast. now that i put a new
spout on and the cap is holdeing pressure, it,s leaking every where. my finger
nails will poke holes in the tubes. i finaly had to tell the cannary to shut up.
i,m getting a new rad, period. it,s snowing like crazy here and my snow
plow is down.
Louis
[
in this pic u can see the coolant stream.
is quite a bit thicker than the core. my rad core is toast. now that i put a new
spout on and the cap is holdeing pressure, it,s leaking every where. my finger
nails will poke holes in the tubes. i finaly had to tell the cannary to shut up.
i,m getting a new rad, period.
it,s snowing like crazy here and my snowplow is down.
Louis
in this pic u can see the coolant stream.
Yes I can see the snow falling in the background of your second picture. We here on PEI are expecting some more snow soon as well. Just a little last night but makes everyone happier today when it was clear and crisp and a sunny day as well.
In the set of 3 pictures at the first of this post, the second one shows, the tank with filler cap mount, and 2 pipe thread mounts for the level gauge and then three round objects in the middle of the tank before you welded on the cover. The three posts, I'll call them, are what I was wondering about.
I guess I'm just not seeing how the overflow tank and rad are going to get connected. Will the long black vent tube from the rad eventually get attached or fitted to the new overflow tank?
And just so we are on the same page. An overflow tank needs a air vent, with the idea the rad spits out fluid when hot and when cooling sucks it back in, so you need to keep the overflow pipe close to the bottom of your catch tank. And normally keep your catch tank about 1/2 to 2/3 full so there is room for the fluid moving back and forth during heat and cooling cycles. The air vent allowing for this transfer to happen without excess pressure build up in the catch tank. Rads normally running 13-15 lbs pressure.
Close or what?
by the way, Great pictures!
In the set of 3 pictures at the first of this post, the second one shows, the tank with filler cap mount, and 2 pipe thread mounts for the level gauge and then three round objects in the middle of the tank before you welded on the cover. The three posts, I'll call them, are what I was wondering about.
I guess I'm just not seeing how the overflow tank and rad are going to get connected. Will the long black vent tube from the rad eventually get attached or fitted to the new overflow tank?
And just so we are on the same page. An overflow tank needs a air vent, with the idea the rad spits out fluid when hot and when cooling sucks it back in, so you need to keep the overflow pipe close to the bottom of your catch tank. And normally keep your catch tank about 1/2 to 2/3 full so there is room for the fluid moving back and forth during heat and cooling cycles. The air vent allowing for this transfer to happen without excess pressure build up in the catch tank. Rads normally running 13-15 lbs pressure.
Close or what?
by the way, Great pictures!
Last edited:
Brian; my bad. now were on the same page. the three posts as u call them,
are top and bottom are threaded nuts for the bolts on the back side. the center one is for the battery tie down that sticks through the plate. go back
to the pic where i was match drilling the tank to the plate and u can see the
tie down hook sticking through. this is the back of the overflow tank. in this pic u can see the overflow tube in the tank and yes it goes to the bottom. in the finished tank pic, look closely at the end of the wing cap and u can see the drilled vent cap hole.
cheers
Louis
are top and bottom are threaded nuts for the bolts on the back side. the center one is for the battery tie down that sticks through the plate. go back
to the pic where i was match drilling the tank to the plate and u can see the
tie down hook sticking through. this is the back of the overflow tank. in this pic u can see the overflow tube in the tank and yes it goes to the bottom. in the finished tank pic, look closely at the end of the wing cap and u can see the drilled vent cap hole.
cheers
Louis
Now I see! Great job. Like the way you attached the hose for checking the fluid level. Clear hose might be easier to read though.
Lets see,
your a pilot, tractor guy, mechanic, welder, designer, photographer, ...
Lets see,
your a pilot, tractor guy, mechanic, welder, designer, photographer, ...
Dan_R_42
Member
Equipment
B7100-D, w/ Sims Cab, B219 FEL, ARPS 70 Backhoe, Oversized R4 Tires, LX2610 Cab
Hey Louis, did you replace the original Kubota radiator cap. I remember reading somewhere, maybe here on another post, that the original factory cap will not work for overflow and siphon back to radiator do to it's design.
Something about original cap having only one seal vs. the two seals on an automotive style cap, needed to allow fluid to pass back into radiator as it cools.
Just checking, trying to help. I'm hoping to save some frustration once you get your new radiator & your up and running again... You may be on top of this already, but thought I would put it out there anyway. May help others too.
Dan
Something about original cap having only one seal vs. the two seals on an automotive style cap, needed to allow fluid to pass back into radiator as it cools.
Just checking, trying to help. I'm hoping to save some frustration once you get your new radiator & your up and running again... You may be on top of this already, but thought I would put it out there anyway. May help others too.
Dan
Dan_R_42
Member
Equipment
B7100-D, w/ Sims Cab, B219 FEL, ARPS 70 Backhoe, Oversized R4 Tires, LX2610 Cab
Below is from another cooling system post I did. If you want a radiator cap with a temperature gauge built-in see below. They are about $26.
B7100 cooling system info:
B7100 Radiator cap update... The Mr Gasket Domestic cap Part Number #2470S fit perfectly, and works great. It is a 13# cap. The "S" on the part number stands for silver trim ring color.
Here is a link to Mr Gasket to the cap I'm talking about:
http://www.mr-gasket.com/ProductDet...&majID=300&minID=0&selection=9&minselection=4
They come in 3 trim ring colors so an "R" red, or "B" blue, in the part number will also work, just depends on which model they have avail in your area.
A dash gauge would have been ideal, but this is not a bad compromise to have an idea of your operating temp of engine. Yeah, you do have to pop the hood to check it, but, hey it works great...
Thanks Louis. I updated the link. Hope it works now...
B7100 cooling system info:
B7100 Radiator cap update... The Mr Gasket Domestic cap Part Number #2470S fit perfectly, and works great. It is a 13# cap. The "S" on the part number stands for silver trim ring color.
Here is a link to Mr Gasket to the cap I'm talking about:
http://www.mr-gasket.com/ProductDet...&majID=300&minID=0&selection=9&minselection=4
They come in 3 trim ring colors so an "R" red, or "B" blue, in the part number will also work, just depends on which model they have avail in your area.
A dash gauge would have been ideal, but this is not a bad compromise to have an idea of your operating temp of engine. Yeah, you do have to pop the hood to check it, but, hey it works great...
Thanks Louis. I updated the link. Hope it works now...
Last edited:
Dan, thanks for the post. just in time too. i was going to buy a electric
temp gauge tomorrow morn. the problem is where to mount it as there
is no room on the L175. this solves the problem. imma gonna put a hole
in the hood and have a little mirror so i can see it while operating the tractor.
i see crappy tire is a dealer in canada. wooo hhooooo. thanks again.
BTW, the link did,nt work but i googled it.
Louis
temp gauge tomorrow morn. the problem is where to mount it as there
is no room on the L175. this solves the problem. imma gonna put a hole
in the hood and have a little mirror so i can see it while operating the tractor.
i see crappy tire is a dealer in canada. wooo hhooooo. thanks again.
BTW, the link did,nt work but i googled it.
Louis
Dan_R_42
Member
Equipment
B7100-D, w/ Sims Cab, B219 FEL, ARPS 70 Backhoe, Oversized R4 Tires, LX2610 Cab