Anyone had problems with the install procedures of the Tuck Away Heater system on Kubota tractors? Mostly with the adapter system for the heater hose hookup at the thermostat housing??
Curtis Cab Heater Install
- Thread starter Cathouse
- Start date
Be more specific. Basically it's route two hoses and some electrical to run a fan.
I'd recommend adding a ball valve at the motor side. My M59 throws a lot of heat and it's better to stop the flow at the source for summer operation unless I'm trying to hard boil some eggs in the cup holder.
I'd recommend adding a ball valve at the motor side. My M59 throws a lot of heat and it's better to stop the flow at the source for summer operation unless I'm trying to hard boil some eggs in the cup holder.
I didn't have a hard time with the installation on my BX23S, however, there is almost little to no room to get the adapter into the lower radiator hose. When I installed the heater in my former BX22, I removed the bypass hose and connected one side of it using adaptors to supply the heater hose, and then using the same adaptors on the return hose I completed the circuit. I never had a problem with the tractor overheating, and in the winter I had more heat out of that little 1' x 10" heater than I get out of the heater that they now incorporate into the cab. Another problem that I encountered last winter was that the heater became air bound and I had to remove the heater from the cab and put it below the engine cooling lines to get all the air out of it. I find it a terrible design as a result of these difficulties. To this day I don't know if its poor heating is a result of the size of the heater core or if I still have air in the system that I can't get out. I probably should start a new thread about the BX23S heater specifically.
I have a L3301 and the adapter they send with it will not fit in the space above and behind the alternator. They provide a 3/8" street EL and there isn't enough room to tighten it after the adapter is installed. I don't know what thread is on the adapter but it must be something in metric cause no US pipe fitting will work.
If I remember correctly on my outlet port there isn't much room and I had to use a straight barb fitting.
Here's a few photos. The bushing on the left with the Red arrow goes in the blue arrow port of the adapter then the temp sending unit screws int there. The Red arrow of the adapter screws into the hole in the engine block where you remove the Temp sending unit. The port on the top is where the street El for the heater hose is supposed to go but there isn't enough room as it hits areas on the engine block and the bracing for the DPF canister. The only threads on the adapter that are US pipe thread are the ones for the street EL. Don't know what the other threads are. The directions (Curtis part no. IM-9PH20S60) are not very clear.
Attachments
There isn't a whole with a plug on my tractor just a dimple. Guess if nothing else I could see if I could get someone to drill and tap it for me.
Those fittings look like they use some type of "Parallel Pipe Thread" and not standard "Tapered Pipe Thread".