Cracked Rim

[Tweetybrun]

inspection of my Grand L I noticed cracks around the bolts on the Rear Drivers side. Numerous times a year I check these bolts and torque them. It seems the drivers side keep loosening because of rotation I suppose. The tractor is light duty with a FEL/ BH and used on dirt and gravel. I have 350 hours with the tractor being 6 years old. Would anyone think this may be a manufacturer defect? Please see photos

 

[jimh406]

I don't know if it's a defect or not, but it looks like you could just buy a center at least.

 

[D.jFarm78]

I bought a L4610 used in 2018 had the same problem. Drilled the holes out and got some HD weld washer welded up and have not had a problem since. That could be a option if you can't find a replacement center.

 

[Tweetybrun]

I don't know if it's a defect or not, but it looks like you could just buy a center at least.

I’m thankful for just the center being replaced. I checked Messicks, it’s almost $400 for the center. Imagine the entire rim?
thanks for the reply

 

[bird dogger]

I’m thankful for just the center being replaced. I checked Messicks, it’s almost $400 for the center. Imagine the entire rim?
thanks for the reply

If you have a welder, a metal cutting jig saw, and a good paper pattern of the bolt holes..... you could cut out a round piece that would eliminate the cracked areas and replace and weld in one of similar thickness. Especially for $400.

With an accurate pattern/dimensions.....a good machine shop could also fabricate the new insert to your specs with all the bolt holes in place. Then you could use it for tracing the cut line on your existing wheel insert before welding it in place. Hard to say what they'd charge or if they could beat the existing quote for doing all the repair in house.

 

[ejb11235]

Instead of trying to cut the crack out, could you drill a small stress-relieving hole at the end of each crack, and then have the cracks welded up?

 

[GrizBota]

That’s not good. I’d have thought it was from loose lugs, but you say you tighten them regularly. Several good options for repair mentioned above.

I’ll be checking the lug torque on my pair of ‘botas.

 

[lynnmor]

I wonder if the lugs are bottoming out leaving the wheel loose. Try loosening all but one and see if that one is clamping the wheel tight, repeat on a few others.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

curious, are the tires 'loaded' ?
I've seen that ,but do you wheel weights not being on tight.

I'd replace all the studs AND nuts. It might be someone used an airgun to tighten them up at dealership, real 'snug'.....

 

[Tweetybrun]

curious, are the tires 'loaded' ?
I've seen that ,but do you wheel weights not being on tight.

I'd replace all the studs AND nuts. It might be someone used an airgun to tighten them up at dealership, real 'snug'.....

Yes, the tires are Loaded plus the chains so there is a lot of weight. I’m going to check the lugs and studs. It’s always that side, weird.

 

[AOW162435]

I'd replace all the studs AND nuts. It might be someone used an airgun to tighten them up at dealership, real 'snug'.....

I tend to agree. Presuming the holes are chamfered to fit tapered nuts (& bolts), repeated over-tightening, or one ham-fisted tech at the dealer could easily distort/spread these holes.

Andreas

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: It’s always that side, weird.

not really weird, just 'science'. every differential ( rear end) has a 'power ' side. One side that gets most of the power . just think to when you were young and did 'burn outs'...only one side laid down rubber....unless you had a posi in the rearend.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Does this happen to other Grand L's?

Just spit balling here, but if you bought a new center and welded the cracks, grind them smooth and use it as a "doubler" to weld to the new one to prevent this from happening again.

Kind of a lot of hassle, but something to consider if it is.