Hello,
I am a newly register to this site but am no stranger, I have in the past enjoyed reading, educating and learning about my Grey Market L2202DT here. I bought this tractor 3 ½ years ago, then realized very quickly that I had bought myself a Grey Market Tractor. I was told that in very un-polite and rude way from a dealership in the City “That’s Grey Market” and to take a hike! I went home that day feeling like I was a criminal and committed a crime by buying a used Kubota tractor. They made out that I should have known this and that this was common knowledge. “What”? It a used tractor...
And on my way home that day I was thinking what did I just get myself into here? That’s the day I was lead to believe that you could not get any parts for this tractor and that is a biggest problem about Grey Markets. And since then I have gotten really good at getting stuff for my tractor.
On doing a bit of research since been able to find, purchase and installed a V-Tek Chinese Front End Loader. Found this site with lots of helpful information on owning, operating and maintaining Kubota Tractors. I received some very great help from Service Depart Vic via emails, phone and his posted videos. THANKS Vic! Was able to purchase some Manuals for my tractor in which have become the best thing I bought for my tractor.
I have put on several hundred hours on this tractor and was quite happy and pleased with this little Kubota Tractor...well up until now
I have a new problem that is very strange...I have talk to a couple of mechanic friends about this problem but really not getting an answer I wanted to hear! But am getting “That Strange”? Now I am not sure where to go from here. Here is the problem that I been having...
The first problem I am having is with the Tractor is as long as you are running continuously about 2000 rpm the running temperature stays normal. But when you idle the tractor down it begins to heat up but doesn’t or hasn’t boiler over. The temperature gauge needle will go up, not all the way in to the red on the gauge but just under it when the tractor is at an idle. When you rev back up the engine up again to about 2000 rpm the tractor starts to cool down and seems to run at a normal operating temperature as long as you are rev up. (Maybe this could be time for an new Waterpump?)
The second problem is that the coolant goes into the overflow tank and fills up but does not return back into the radiator. The interesting part is when you remove the radiator cap there is always a bit of pressure there...this built up pressure in the radiator will keep there for days and even after the tractor has sat for a couple of weeks. This is only when you first remove the radiator cap after it has been run and cooled off to the touch or overnight. It doesn’t seem to be losing any coolant. Just fills up the overflow tank up to the full mark...that is when you start off with the overflow tank level at cold about ½ ways between the low and full mark. I have been manual transferring the coolant back into the rad before running. And of course I have only been running the tractor to run test. About 5 hours of runing testing.
The radiator is in good condition, there is no visible corrosion, no leaks in the radiator, radiator cap is brand new, the top / bottom rad hose’s are new, from the rad to overflow tank ¼” hose is new, hose from radiator to frame drain valve is new and the bottom of radiator to the bottom of the fuel injector pump is new (or should say have been replaced somewhere in the last 100 hours). The thermostat was replaced (new), as well as the alternator / water pump belt (new). All of this work was done after the low hose from the bottom of the rad to the frame drain valve hose split on me last summer.
Last summer I notice the temperature gauge climbing up when I shut it down could hear hissing noise from the front end of the tractor. I thought it was the lower tank on the rad give up. But when disassembled found a hidden hose at the bottom of the rad to the frame drain valve. The only other thing I fix up on the tractor since then, about 5 hours ago I replace the key switch out because the old one was not working properly.
I have done a pressure test on the coolant system and the results of this test was, it was pressured up to 18 psi and over a 2 hour time period the pressure drop was 1 psi. And I saw no visible leaks at all.
I see no evident of the coolant getting into the engine oil, no discolouring of the engine oil. It doesn’t appear to burning coolant either...no white smoke when running weather at idle or 2000 rpm. The only white smoke I see is for about 1 second, there is a puff of white smoke on start up, right after it fires up. It appears not to be losing any coolant volume and for that matter, it has never lost coolant expect for the hose split episode last summer. The fluids levels are check every time I start and run this tractor and it appears not to be losing any of it's coolant.
Any help on this would be much appreciated...thanks .
BobTheKubota
I am a newly register to this site but am no stranger, I have in the past enjoyed reading, educating and learning about my Grey Market L2202DT here. I bought this tractor 3 ½ years ago, then realized very quickly that I had bought myself a Grey Market Tractor. I was told that in very un-polite and rude way from a dealership in the City “That’s Grey Market” and to take a hike! I went home that day feeling like I was a criminal and committed a crime by buying a used Kubota tractor. They made out that I should have known this and that this was common knowledge. “What”? It a used tractor...
And on my way home that day I was thinking what did I just get myself into here? That’s the day I was lead to believe that you could not get any parts for this tractor and that is a biggest problem about Grey Markets. And since then I have gotten really good at getting stuff for my tractor.
On doing a bit of research since been able to find, purchase and installed a V-Tek Chinese Front End Loader. Found this site with lots of helpful information on owning, operating and maintaining Kubota Tractors. I received some very great help from Service Depart Vic via emails, phone and his posted videos. THANKS Vic! Was able to purchase some Manuals for my tractor in which have become the best thing I bought for my tractor.
I have put on several hundred hours on this tractor and was quite happy and pleased with this little Kubota Tractor...well up until now
I have a new problem that is very strange...I have talk to a couple of mechanic friends about this problem but really not getting an answer I wanted to hear! But am getting “That Strange”? Now I am not sure where to go from here. Here is the problem that I been having...
The first problem I am having is with the Tractor is as long as you are running continuously about 2000 rpm the running temperature stays normal. But when you idle the tractor down it begins to heat up but doesn’t or hasn’t boiler over. The temperature gauge needle will go up, not all the way in to the red on the gauge but just under it when the tractor is at an idle. When you rev back up the engine up again to about 2000 rpm the tractor starts to cool down and seems to run at a normal operating temperature as long as you are rev up. (Maybe this could be time for an new Waterpump?)
The second problem is that the coolant goes into the overflow tank and fills up but does not return back into the radiator. The interesting part is when you remove the radiator cap there is always a bit of pressure there...this built up pressure in the radiator will keep there for days and even after the tractor has sat for a couple of weeks. This is only when you first remove the radiator cap after it has been run and cooled off to the touch or overnight. It doesn’t seem to be losing any coolant. Just fills up the overflow tank up to the full mark...that is when you start off with the overflow tank level at cold about ½ ways between the low and full mark. I have been manual transferring the coolant back into the rad before running. And of course I have only been running the tractor to run test. About 5 hours of runing testing.
The radiator is in good condition, there is no visible corrosion, no leaks in the radiator, radiator cap is brand new, the top / bottom rad hose’s are new, from the rad to overflow tank ¼” hose is new, hose from radiator to frame drain valve is new and the bottom of radiator to the bottom of the fuel injector pump is new (or should say have been replaced somewhere in the last 100 hours). The thermostat was replaced (new), as well as the alternator / water pump belt (new). All of this work was done after the low hose from the bottom of the rad to the frame drain valve hose split on me last summer.
Last summer I notice the temperature gauge climbing up when I shut it down could hear hissing noise from the front end of the tractor. I thought it was the lower tank on the rad give up. But when disassembled found a hidden hose at the bottom of the rad to the frame drain valve. The only other thing I fix up on the tractor since then, about 5 hours ago I replace the key switch out because the old one was not working properly.
I have done a pressure test on the coolant system and the results of this test was, it was pressured up to 18 psi and over a 2 hour time period the pressure drop was 1 psi. And I saw no visible leaks at all.
I see no evident of the coolant getting into the engine oil, no discolouring of the engine oil. It doesn’t appear to burning coolant either...no white smoke when running weather at idle or 2000 rpm. The only white smoke I see is for about 1 second, there is a puff of white smoke on start up, right after it fires up. It appears not to be losing any coolant volume and for that matter, it has never lost coolant expect for the hose split episode last summer. The fluids levels are check every time I start and run this tractor and it appears not to be losing any of it's coolant.
Any help on this would be much appreciated...thanks .
BobTheKubota
