I have a B7100 3 speed manual transmission. Clutch disc broke. I installed a new pressure plate, disc, pilot bearing, clutch shaft with a new flex coupler, throw out bearing, bearing sleeve, clutch linkage, release fork and linkage, and misc springs. Flywheel was inspected and was ok. I adjusted the clutch to specs in service manual, put the trans in gear, depressed the clutch and engaged the starter and the tractor started to move while cranking on starter. I stopped and re-adjusted the clutch again with no free play and the same thing happened. I then purchased a new disc and plate to try, seperated the tractor for the 4th time. When finished I set it all up again and this time I depressed the clutch in neutural gear and started the tractor, then tried to put tractor in gear and the it ground gear. I stopped and inspected the tranny and didn't see anything wrong. I talked to service tech and they can't seem to know the problem. Original clutch I put in didn't have any problem until the disc failed. Please help Jerry
clutch won't disengauge
- Thread starter jerome
- Start date
I already looked at that. This disc can't go in backwards as the hub on the disc will hit the fly wheel bolts. I had it apart again
I had another clutch and disc from A@I that had the disc springs that were not secured to disc and there pressure plate did the same thing not disengaugeing. This new pressure plate and disc is a Kubota part from a kubota dealer. I am lost on what to do. I rebuilt the engine 3 years ago and put a new clutch kit and had no problem. I also talked to the dealer shop and asked about the adjustment on pressure plate and he said there set at factory. Jerry
If you have eliminated the clutch itself as the problem the only thing left is the clutch shaft/pilot bearing interface. bearing to tight? damaged on installation? Wrong clutch shaft? clutch shaft coupler together wrong? ( making the clutch shaft effectively too long) A clutch, at least a "B" tractor clutch, is a pretty simple device! shouldn't be too hard to determine the problem
I split the tractor this morning and measured the old disc and plate compressed and uncompressed and it checks out. same as the new clutch. Checked the pilot bushing and it's ok. Measured the shaft with the flexcoupler and without and matched to old one and they are right. Measured the bell housing and the depth of the clutch installed on flywheel and the throwout bearing should only have to move 3/4" to release the disc. I may have to cut a inspection hole in the bell housing to see what is happening, I have installed 2 clutches in this tractor since we bought it about 6 years and had no problem with installation. These are really a simple and strong tractor. I have run out of ideas but am not giving up Thanks for all help Jerry
I come to the conclusion that the pressure plate is out of wac. I cut a 3'x3' square out of the bell housing on the right side making this an inspection hole. I will make a plate for future use. I was able to see that the clutch doesn't release enough to keep the disc from turning. So looks like I will have to ajust the 3 fingers on the pressure plate to allow the disc to be free. I checked this with the clutch pedel depressed all the down, and rotated the engine by hand watching the disc still turn. I hope this solves the situation. The only thing I am not sure as to which way to go with the adjustment. I think if I give the three fingers a little more height then it should still have enough pressure to operate but will release the disc. Am I right. Thanks for all the info. I hope this will do it Jerry
I doubt adjusting the fingers will make any difference UNLESS they are not even with each other. The leverage ratio will remain the same no matter where you adjust them too. If they are not even that could be the problem (Vic already touched on that)
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Milo Holroyd
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 L245DT w/1700 FEL, 2003 L3130 HST,w/ LA723 loader,,and L2174A snowblower
This is a long shot......but, could the clutch pedal be bent out of shape?
So that the pedal is hitting a stop, before pushing the throwout bearing far enough? Just trying to help.
Milo
So that the pedal is hitting a stop, before pushing the throwout bearing far enough? Just trying to help.
Milo
That's a good thought but I put new linkage in. Also the old clutch even with the broken disc worked good except for it chatering. So something changed when I put a new disc and pressure plate in. Then put new shaft with fle coupler. pilot bushing, springs, throw out bearing, fork and fork sleeve. The only thing left is install old pressure plate and see if works. Jerry
Milo Holroyd
Member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 L245DT w/1700 FEL, 2003 L3130 HST,w/ LA723 loader,,and L2174A snowblower
OK, still grasping at straws here.........how about this senario:
the throwout bearing forks are indexed (keyed) on the clutch pedal shaft.
Could the forks /shaft be reversed? (shrug)
Milo
the throwout bearing forks are indexed (keyed) on the clutch pedal shaft.
Could the forks /shaft be reversed? (shrug)
Milo
I tried to reverse the forks and it won't work. The fork is keyed and the tabs according to the book and the techs the tab curve faces the rear of the tractor. Now you see why I am frusted. I work on a 70 challenger 76 duster,66plymouth satellite, and am restoring a 48 dodge pickup and have never seen anything like this. Little things give head big bad head aches
Milo Holroyd
Member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 L245DT w/1700 FEL, 2003 L3130 HST,w/ LA723 loader,,and L2174A snowblower
I re-read all the posts, did you compare the length of the new throwout bearing, to the old?
Milo
Milo
Yes the throw out bearings is identicle too the old one. Same part number.
thanks jerry keep trying. Cause I don't give up Jerry
thanks jerry keep trying. Cause I don't give up Jerry
Milo Holroyd
Member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 L245DT w/1700 FEL, 2003 L3130 HST,w/ LA723 loader,,and L2174A snowblower
Man, thats a puzzler! I guess my next step would be to extend the adjustment rod as far as possible. To obtain the maximum "throw".
Hey! It's all mechanical linkage! The answers right there!
Milo
Hey! It's all mechanical linkage! The answers right there!
Milo
MiloMan, thats a puzzler! I guess my next step would be to extend the adjustment rod as far as possible. To obtain the maximum "throw".
Hey! It's all mechanical linkage! The answers right there!
Milo
The clutch rod is threaded all the way outon the clevis, might have to weld a new longer rod Thanks jerry
Vic : I measured the tabs, they are within specs, so did somemore looking and seen that the new disc is tight on the new shaft. So I cleaned the groves and the flat ares with a file on both and it is a little freer. No it still didn't worh well. I looked threw the inspection hole I made in the bellhousing and pressed the clutch pedel all the way down and the plate did seperate, but the disc didn't move in or out. So I reenstalled the old disc in the tractor with the new pressure plate and it worked fine. So the problem lies in the disc machined to tight with the shaft. Now I will have to see if Kubota will send another disc with no charge to me . I will let you all know the out come. Thanks you all for your time and patience you were a great help. I will recamend this site everyone. Thanks again Jerry