Good morning, I hit the key and click click click and then it starts up it's been doing this cents I bought it two years ago . I have cleaned battery and cables still click click so I checked with the dealer found out battery starting amp were to low put a new battery on click click and then it starts up. So went back to dealer must be starter put new starter on still click click click same thing now the dealer said it must be ignition switch . Really after $$$$$$$ I have spent on this does any body have any answers . Thanks
Click click
- Thread starter Robbie
- Start date
Robbie,
Is it a situation where you have to turn the key multiple times to finally get it to start? Or, is it a situation where you turn the key and hold it, it clicks several times, then starts?
I don't know your tractor specifically. However, what I'm wondering is if it has a time delay when you turn the key that activates the glow plugs and fuel solenoid before it cranks?
It's a shot in the dark, but more details on EXACTLY what it does (and what you do when trying to start it) would be helpful.
Thanks,
Steve
Is it a situation where you have to turn the key multiple times to finally get it to start? Or, is it a situation where you turn the key and hold it, it clicks several times, then starts?
I don't know your tractor specifically. However, what I'm wondering is if it has a time delay when you turn the key that activates the glow plugs and fuel solenoid before it cranks?
It's a shot in the dark, but more details on EXACTLY what it does (and what you do when trying to start it) would be helpful.
Thanks,
Steve
KNOWN ISSUE on B2400 ( and others ), mine does ( did ) the same thing. Just have to find the right guy that knows about it.
Key switch circuit has developed resistance that it isn't sending full power to stater solenoid ( what you hear clicking ) solenoid doesn't pull in hard enough to energize starter and shoot out drive gear.
The fix..... there is a$20- $150 "kit" sold by Kubota and JD and a few other places, it's a relay and socket don't buy it.
you can make your own for under $10 unless you need to have things fancy and proper
10 minutes of your time and a 4 pin 20amp relay ( with mounting tab )assorted wire terminals and some 12 gauge wire.
no need to cut ANY tractor wiring can return to factory form if so desired. you're only moving one wire on the tractor. everything else is made by you.
pin 85 to ground ( bolt on engine close by )
pin 86 the small wire that goes to spade on starter solenoid put on this pin
pin 87 to spade on solenoid
pin 30 to battery terminal lug on starter.
mount relay where convenient
start your tractor EVERY time ( unless relay burns out
)
I'd take a picture of mine, but I used a relay I had laying around, and it burned out, came out of a 12000+hr fork lift, go figure, so until I get a good one I'm back to click click click
pic from similar repair on this site http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2082&d=1285680886
Key switch circuit has developed resistance that it isn't sending full power to stater solenoid ( what you hear clicking ) solenoid doesn't pull in hard enough to energize starter and shoot out drive gear.
The fix..... there is a$20- $150 "kit" sold by Kubota and JD and a few other places, it's a relay and socket don't buy it.
you can make your own for under $10 unless you need to have things fancy and proper
10 minutes of your time and a 4 pin 20amp relay ( with mounting tab )assorted wire terminals and some 12 gauge wire.
no need to cut ANY tractor wiring can return to factory form if so desired. you're only moving one wire on the tractor. everything else is made by you.
pin 85 to ground ( bolt on engine close by )
pin 86 the small wire that goes to spade on starter solenoid put on this pin
pin 87 to spade on solenoid
pin 30 to battery terminal lug on starter.
mount relay where convenient
start your tractor EVERY time ( unless relay burns out
) I'd take a picture of mine, but I used a relay I had laying around, and it burned out, came out of a 12000+hr fork lift, go figure, so until I get a good one I'm back to click click click
pic from similar repair on this site http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2082&d=1285680886
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I'm curious about this home-built fix. Sounds like it works and cheers for providing a solution.
With that in mind, BlkVooDoo, do you know what causes the high resistance to develop in the switch circuit? Is it the switch itself, internally? Is it a bad connection, broken wire, loose or poorly affixed wire terminal, corrosion, something else we should be looking for?
Looking at the schematic and instructions provided it appears this approximately duplicates a starter solenoid from 1970's Ford truck. I've successfully used these from parts houses (saves finding relays and sockets and soldering) for different applications.
Just replaced one on a 6-cyl '68 300-CI. Found the plastic-cased import cheapest model solenoid tends to crack the case when tightening cable lug stud nut. Finally paid $20 for a US-made (maybe...) steel cased model complete with mounting bracket. Noted also the steel-cased model had longer studs that would allow stacking multiple heavy lugs---the cheaper model had extremely short studs. If a forum member has this problem might want to consider the Ford solenoid.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
With that in mind, BlkVooDoo, do you know what causes the high resistance to develop in the switch circuit? Is it the switch itself, internally? Is it a bad connection, broken wire, loose or poorly affixed wire terminal, corrosion, something else we should be looking for?
Looking at the schematic and instructions provided it appears this approximately duplicates a starter solenoid from 1970's Ford truck. I've successfully used these from parts houses (saves finding relays and sockets and soldering) for different applications.
Just replaced one on a 6-cyl '68 300-CI. Found the plastic-cased import cheapest model solenoid tends to crack the case when tightening cable lug stud nut. Finally paid $20 for a US-made (maybe...) steel cased model complete with mounting bracket. Noted also the steel-cased model had longer studs that would allow stacking multiple heavy lugs---the cheaper model had extremely short studs. If a forum member has this problem might want to consider the Ford solenoid.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
If it's just a matter of low current to the solenoid, you could put in a large capacitor that wouldn't even let the solenoid engage to 'click' until it was charged up, and then the solenoid could draw off the capacitor as well with plenty of current to be had...
However, either way is just a hodge-podge approach to fix a poor factory system.
Since the factor circuit is woefully constructed... bypass it entirely for start. Put in a standard high power momentary start button switch and run to the battery and the starting solenoid. Turn the key to 'on', push the button. Tractors and other vehicles have started this way for decades. No rocket science here!
However, either way is just a hodge-podge approach to fix a poor factory system.
Since the factor circuit is woefully constructed... bypass it entirely for start. Put in a standard high power momentary start button switch and run to the battery and the starting solenoid. Turn the key to 'on', push the button. Tractors and other vehicles have started this way for decades. No rocket science here!
honestly, no clue, my guess after having worked on some of the wiring on mine, dirty connections at unsealed connectors, and there seems to be a lot of them in that circuit.
I did take my key switch apart and clean and polished the internal contacts, made absolutely no difference. did the relay bypass, and never looked back, it works well when it has a good ( not worn out) relay installed.
Heh, there is no way hell I'm putting a FORD part on my Kubota, BLASPHEMY !
Just installed u'r fix !! It work thanks u save me $$$ . Instead of using a 20 amp all I could find was a 30 amp relay . I have one more question when u are in the seat the pedal on the left looks like the reverse pedal what is it ??
rear differential lock, if you get in a spot where one wheel spins, stop, step on that pedal and hold it down with your foot, now BOTH rear wheel will have power and potentially pull you out, or bury you......
makes your "4wheel drive" tractor true 3wheel drive when you really need it.
most tractors have this device, as a traction aid it works, but it can get you in as much trouble as it gets you out of.
Really it's a good thing I didn't know that Saturday . Cleaning out a drainage ditch got in a little trouble a lot . Still kinda soft and muddy in some spot's . Thank goodness for a FEL .
I've used my tractor to extract my truck from the yard as many times as I've used the truck to extract the tractor.
both are 4wd
both are 4wd
I have to call my son his place is next to mine and when I do something like that he usually setting on his front porch watching waiting to to pull Me out with his 4 wheel drive just laughing . And then trying to charge me $ . For pulling me out . LolI've used my tractor to extract my truck from the yard as many times as I've used the truck to extract the tractor.
both are 4wd
I use the diff lock when digging with the FEL. It keeps the tractor going straight and lets you dig harder. I have engaged it when running the box scraper hard as well.
Handy little device. I wish my D-17 had a diff lock.
Handy little device. I wish my D-17 had a diff lock.