Late last year I purchased a L1500DT. I haven't as yet done much with it. I live in northern Ontario Canada. I would like to replace the oil, going from 10W30(brand unknown) to Esso 0W30 synthetic XD-3 EXTRA. According to the Service Manual, when switching oil, to an oil of a different brand or different viscosity, the inside of the crank case should be washed and cleaned. To do this I need to drop the oil pan. The problem is the drive shaft won't allow me to do that. There has to be an easy way around this but I can't see it. Any help around this problem would be appreciated. Thanks.
Changing oil problem found with my L1500
- Thread starter L1500DTowner
- Start date
If it were mine I would just change the oil twice. Change it completely including filter then change again after an hour or so. it would be less costly than removing the pan even with synthetic oil.
Ed
Ed
I did think of doing that but not to the point of calculating the cost. Four litres of oil, with tax, cost is $35 doubbled $70. The filter is $10, doubled $20, for a Total $90.
I planned to drop the pan myself, so my cost would be, oil + filter $45 and pan gasket $35 for a Total $80. Not much different.
The only problem with this solution is: When the pan is dropped, a primary screen filter is visible. The service manual states, if clogged, it should be cleaned with diesel fuel or kerosene. I would miss this step - perhaps no big deal.
Your idea is good but if possible I would like to clean pan area and the primary oil filter, If I can without removing the drive shaft.
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
I planned to drop the pan myself, so my cost would be, oil + filter $45 and pan gasket $35 for a Total $80. Not much different.
The only problem with this solution is: When the pan is dropped, a primary screen filter is visible. The service manual states, if clogged, it should be cleaned with diesel fuel or kerosene. I would miss this step - perhaps no big deal.
Your idea is good but if possible I would like to clean pan area and the primary oil filter, If I can without removing the drive shaft.
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
i've never actually worked on a L1500/L175 But any of the small ones I do work on I remove the front axle pivot pin and lift up the front of the tractor to remove the oil pan. It is also quite easy to remove the whole front of the tractor by removing the bolts on both sides of the block and removing the two bolts on the bottom of the rad and just roll the front away! (support the tractor in the middle of course!) Yours might have some other wrinkles though but shouldn't be to hard. Unless the previous owner was really negligent in changing oil I doubt you'll find much to wash out of there though!
They make a big deal about sludge in the TV ads but really, I haven't run into much of it in 35 years as a mechanic.
Ed
They make a big deal about sludge in the TV ads but really, I haven't run into much of it in 35 years as a mechanic.
Ed
I had never even did that on my L1801 and I just changed it more frequent then recommended the first time. I think I just did 25 hours and then did the change again with no ill effects. I also noticed that it said to do the oil pan cleaning in the operators manual and choose to simply ignore it as I have been around tractors all my life and changed a lot oil over the years.
I frequently change the oil to lower oils like 0W30 for the winter and change back to 10 W 30 for the summer months and I have never had a issue doing that.
If oil is frequently changed from here on I see no reason to go into the work of removing the pan and cleaning it. It really boils down to in my eyes a waste of time.
I frequently change the oil to lower oils like 0W30 for the winter and change back to 10 W 30 for the summer months and I have never had a issue doing that.
If oil is frequently changed from here on I see no reason to go into the work of removing the pan and cleaning it. It really boils down to in my eyes a waste of time.
My plan is to stay with 0W30 year-round. I wanted to start off right with this older, but new-to-me tractor. The thought of removing the drive shaft just to drop the oil pan didn't seem logical at all and there must be a way around the problem. The service manual mentions nothing of the drive shaft or removal of it. The tractor may be well made but this doesn't seem like it was well thought out, designed. I am an of-necessity back-yard-mechanic and have always thought that design engineers should spend at least one year with a licensed mechanic before getting their degree. Regardless, Vic, I have seen your videos. That's how I bumped into this very good site. Vic are you there! I know you have had to drop the pan on a L1500/175 a time or two. Does the shaft have to come off first?
I appreciate all of you who have taken the time to respond.
Thank you.
John
I appreciate all of you who have taken the time to respond.
Thank you.John
I am picking up my L1500DT this evening and want to give it a lick over before doing much with it. I'm not sure Varsol is available in Aus so I was wondering what exactly it is. A quick google suggested it is just a name brand paint thinner but I'd like to be sure before pouring it in the engine ;-)
Cheers
Monte
Cheers
Monte
Diesel fuel will do a good job cleaning up that engine too. You must have a little of that around?
Ed
Ed
Great, thanks.
After driving up my driveway I've found a leak in the radiator so the first job is to get that re-cored.
One other thing I was wondering about was the hydraulic oil. The guy I got it from said to only use Kubota hydrolic oil but your video seems to be saying I can use any brand as long as it's the right viscosity. 80W90 if I remember right... There's no after market FEL on this machine.
Cheers
Monte
After driving up my driveway I've found a leak in the radiator so the first job is to get that re-cored.
One other thing I was wondering about was the hydraulic oil. The guy I got it from said to only use Kubota hydrolic oil but your video seems to be saying I can use any brand as long as it's the right viscosity. 80W90 if I remember right... There's no after market FEL on this machine.
Cheers
Monte
I usually recommend only Kubota hyd. oil but on the gear tractors in warm climates any brand will work ok.
Ed
Ed
Ah, ok. The video seems to indicate there's little difference between the different brands of universal tractor transmission oil.