Time for new blades. I've seen a lot of threads and local talk to just get under with an angle grinder and sharpen. I also seen a lot of information on why not to get under and sharpen the blades. For Safety reasons. I follow the reason for safety and I will take it to someone the has a safe way of doing it and the power tools to perform the task. My question the manual lists a kit p/n 316-586A which I believe is necessary because the nut hex top lock is only good once. You cannot reuse it. Correct?
Changing Blades on Kubota Rotary Mower RCR1860
- Thread starter Stumpuller
- Start date
Can you remove the blades for sharpening or you taking the entire mower to the shop for sharpening?
If you can raise the deck the safety concerns can be eliminated by using blocks of wood (if you're looking on the internet for pictures you'd probably look under "cribbing").
If you don't have tools to sharpen the blades, one time to town will cost what all the tools will cost. You can do the job at your time schedule and not have to wait for someone else.
A 4" angle grinder, if you don't have one, can be purchased at Harbor Freight for $15. It'll probable outlast all the blades you use on your mower.
You need a blade balancer. Here's one on Amazon, but your local hardware store may have one on the shelf.
http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-Mower-...5630772&sr=8-4&keywords=blade+sharpener+mower
I can"t help you with what's in the kit, but an owners manual might be a good source of reading.
If you can raise the deck the safety concerns can be eliminated by using blocks of wood (if you're looking on the internet for pictures you'd probably look under "cribbing").
If you don't have tools to sharpen the blades, one time to town will cost what all the tools will cost. You can do the job at your time schedule and not have to wait for someone else.
A 4" angle grinder, if you don't have one, can be purchased at Harbor Freight for $15. It'll probable outlast all the blades you use on your mower.
You need a blade balancer. Here's one on Amazon, but your local hardware store may have one on the shelf.
http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-Mower-...5630772&sr=8-4&keywords=blade+sharpener+mower
I can"t help you with what's in the kit, but an owners manual might be a good source of reading.
I've seen many references to one-time use of locking nuts and pretty much ignore them all. I've been reusing locking nuts for years. HOWEVER.... I do so with the understanding that self locking nuts are worthless if they don't perform the "locking" part of their function so I replace them when they no longer provide significant resistance to turning. Considering the possible consequences of having one of those blades come loose while operating, I'd be especially mindful of how much torque it takes to turn them and replace them if there is any doubt at all.
As far as sharpening goes, I own a nice bench grinder, a couple of angle griders, and a variety of other metal working toys and I still consider the $6 per blade money well spent to let the local sharpening shop do it. I can't possibly do as good with a hand-held grinder as they do with their $50,000 CNC machines.
As far as sharpening goes, I own a nice bench grinder, a couple of angle griders, and a variety of other metal working toys and I still consider the $6 per blade money well spent to let the local sharpening shop do it. I can't possibly do as good with a hand-held grinder as they do with their $50,000 CNC machines.
I'm going to disagree with some of the information posted on this thread thus far. In doing so, I invite comment concerning my post.
The RCR1860 per Internet search appears to be a 5-ft shredder or bushhog or brushhog---local slang may call it something else.
Blade balancing is not required, unlike a lawnmower where it is.
The blades can be removed by removing the large hex nut and the split-type spring lock washer.
There may be a porthole on the deck of the cutter allowing access to the nut on top of the blade carrier. Or you may need to cut a hole in the deck.
A properly sized large diameter hex socket will be needed. Obtain a 'bushhog wrench' that looks like a socket welded onto a square bar of steel or pick up a 3/4-in ratchet set at a local pawnshop or used tool dealer.
Replace the spring lock washer with each use. Cheap insurance at a quarter each. Keep in mind that using a spring-type lock washer indicates little more than an intent. Today, anaerobic thread lockers ('blue' in this case) are the way to go.
Clean the bolt and its key and the blade carrier keyway.
Hold the blade in a vise or clamp to bench with C-clamp or vise grips and use a handheld grinder to sharpen the edge. If completely blunted, go to town and look at a new blade and see what it looks like.
If you crawl under the bushhog, crib it with pallets, timbers, sills---something solid. Or stand it up against a tree and chain it so it doesn't move when you tug on the nuts.
Here's more info for the newer user:
Contact the manufacturer and wait on them to send you the Owner's Manual for that machine. You'll need to furnish them the Model Number off the tag. If not present they can guess pretty well based on your description. You may need to send them a photo via email.
Some blades can be hard to find in some areas. You said you had two different blade lengths----one's been cut off, ground off, or you have one or both incorrect blades. You need to start fresh with the OEM part number or you'll never get it right. Some blades will have a number stamped on them somewhere if not worn off.
There are literally hundreds of different bushhog blades--make certain you have the correct offset and direction of rotation and mounting hole size---in addition to length.
Locally, I pay about $50 for a set of two blades for a 6-ft Howse.
You might want to go back with new mounting bolts. Make sure the stumpjumper keyway slot is clean and make certain when reinstalling bolts the keyways line up.
Check local pawn shop for large sockets, extension, and break-over bar or buy a bushhog wrench to fit. Use a cheater pipe and penetrating oil. Lube the threads and keyway with thread sealant (pipe dope) when going back together.
After removing the nut the blade bolt will probably be tight. Put the nut back on just to top of bolt and use a piece of wood to punch the bolt loose.
Sharpen blades annually or as needed by removing and using a 4.5-in hand grinder.
Check gearbox and use 85-140-W gear oil or per Howse specs. Some of their gearboxes have a level indicating plug, some don't.
Tighten EVERY nut on the entire implement and go back with new NyLock nuts.
Blades can, do, and will bend and break. First time it happens you'll have a strong desire to be someplace else. Get out of PTO as fast as you can, go back to shop, and install new blade set. Retighten all bolts, again.
Keep those U-joints greased. Replace missing zerks (one each end). Look carefully, may be sheared off.
Depending where you live and the stocking availability in your area you'll probably do better to buy locally.
If this machine is new to you and you're not the original owner my suggestion would be to talk directly with the manufacturer and obtain the blade part number for that machine. And then buy locally if you can.
If you must, order your first set using that mfg part number.
Later, for future sets, you can shop for pricing using the KNOWN good sample blade.
Why you ask? I have seen used shredders with incorrect, torch cut, whittled, backwards, incorect rotation, upside-down, and everything in between blades. If you use what is now on the machine you truly don't know if it's correct for that use or not. I kid you not bushhog blades are magnets for errors. And believe it or not there are hundreds of possible blades to go wrong with.
As mentioned, some blades do have part numbers stamped into them. Most don't or are long gone due to abrasion and wear. And you still don't know if those are the correct blades for that machine.
If you've got a stump-jumper don't even bother trying to pull it. Locate the blade bolt and cut a hole in the deck to allow access. You'll need a 3/4-drive socket or a bushhog socket-wrench-on-a-stick blade wrench. My bolts are 1-7/8-inch. Yours will be different almost certainly. You MIGHT be able to fit a wrench over the lip of the tub-shape stump jumper. Others this forum report bending a wrench to gain access from the bottom.
If your first blade change go back with new special blade bolts, nuts, and lock washers. Clean the keyway on the blade carrier. Grease heavily when installing. Use thread lube on the bolt threads and tighten tight.
Change blades in pairs. Confirm installation per mfgs directions for orientation, direction of rotation, blade angle-up or -down. Spin by hand with blades straight to make sure not hitting deck anywhere. Support the unit if you're under it and DO NOT depend on tractor 3-point to hold it up. Might be easier to stand it up against a tree or stout fence post.
Grease gearbox and U-joints. Tighten 3-point lift pins and entire frame assembly.
Be prepared and keep in mind that blades can do and will bend and break---the first time it happens it'll scare you witless---turn off the PTO, clean the seat, and drive back to the house to replace both blades and retighten everything that shook loose.
Blades can be resharpened. See what new blades are like and duplicate on your blades when they need it. 4-1/2-inch hand angle grinder is just the ticket and can be done on the machine for a touch-up.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
The RCR1860 per Internet search appears to be a 5-ft shredder or bushhog or brushhog---local slang may call it something else.
Blade balancing is not required, unlike a lawnmower where it is.
The blades can be removed by removing the large hex nut and the split-type spring lock washer.
There may be a porthole on the deck of the cutter allowing access to the nut on top of the blade carrier. Or you may need to cut a hole in the deck.
A properly sized large diameter hex socket will be needed. Obtain a 'bushhog wrench' that looks like a socket welded onto a square bar of steel or pick up a 3/4-in ratchet set at a local pawnshop or used tool dealer.
Replace the spring lock washer with each use. Cheap insurance at a quarter each. Keep in mind that using a spring-type lock washer indicates little more than an intent. Today, anaerobic thread lockers ('blue' in this case) are the way to go.
Clean the bolt and its key and the blade carrier keyway.
Hold the blade in a vise or clamp to bench with C-clamp or vise grips and use a handheld grinder to sharpen the edge. If completely blunted, go to town and look at a new blade and see what it looks like.
If you crawl under the bushhog, crib it with pallets, timbers, sills---something solid. Or stand it up against a tree and chain it so it doesn't move when you tug on the nuts.
Here's more info for the newer user:
Contact the manufacturer and wait on them to send you the Owner's Manual for that machine. You'll need to furnish them the Model Number off the tag. If not present they can guess pretty well based on your description. You may need to send them a photo via email.
Some blades can be hard to find in some areas. You said you had two different blade lengths----one's been cut off, ground off, or you have one or both incorrect blades. You need to start fresh with the OEM part number or you'll never get it right. Some blades will have a number stamped on them somewhere if not worn off.
There are literally hundreds of different bushhog blades--make certain you have the correct offset and direction of rotation and mounting hole size---in addition to length.
Locally, I pay about $50 for a set of two blades for a 6-ft Howse.
You might want to go back with new mounting bolts. Make sure the stumpjumper keyway slot is clean and make certain when reinstalling bolts the keyways line up.
Check local pawn shop for large sockets, extension, and break-over bar or buy a bushhog wrench to fit. Use a cheater pipe and penetrating oil. Lube the threads and keyway with thread sealant (pipe dope) when going back together.
After removing the nut the blade bolt will probably be tight. Put the nut back on just to top of bolt and use a piece of wood to punch the bolt loose.
Sharpen blades annually or as needed by removing and using a 4.5-in hand grinder.
Check gearbox and use 85-140-W gear oil or per Howse specs. Some of their gearboxes have a level indicating plug, some don't.
Tighten EVERY nut on the entire implement and go back with new NyLock nuts.
Blades can, do, and will bend and break. First time it happens you'll have a strong desire to be someplace else. Get out of PTO as fast as you can, go back to shop, and install new blade set. Retighten all bolts, again.
Keep those U-joints greased. Replace missing zerks (one each end). Look carefully, may be sheared off.
Depending where you live and the stocking availability in your area you'll probably do better to buy locally.
If this machine is new to you and you're not the original owner my suggestion would be to talk directly with the manufacturer and obtain the blade part number for that machine. And then buy locally if you can.
If you must, order your first set using that mfg part number.
Later, for future sets, you can shop for pricing using the KNOWN good sample blade.
Why you ask? I have seen used shredders with incorrect, torch cut, whittled, backwards, incorect rotation, upside-down, and everything in between blades. If you use what is now on the machine you truly don't know if it's correct for that use or not. I kid you not bushhog blades are magnets for errors. And believe it or not there are hundreds of possible blades to go wrong with.
As mentioned, some blades do have part numbers stamped into them. Most don't or are long gone due to abrasion and wear. And you still don't know if those are the correct blades for that machine.
If you've got a stump-jumper don't even bother trying to pull it. Locate the blade bolt and cut a hole in the deck to allow access. You'll need a 3/4-drive socket or a bushhog socket-wrench-on-a-stick blade wrench. My bolts are 1-7/8-inch. Yours will be different almost certainly. You MIGHT be able to fit a wrench over the lip of the tub-shape stump jumper. Others this forum report bending a wrench to gain access from the bottom.
If your first blade change go back with new special blade bolts, nuts, and lock washers. Clean the keyway on the blade carrier. Grease heavily when installing. Use thread lube on the bolt threads and tighten tight.
Change blades in pairs. Confirm installation per mfgs directions for orientation, direction of rotation, blade angle-up or -down. Spin by hand with blades straight to make sure not hitting deck anywhere. Support the unit if you're under it and DO NOT depend on tractor 3-point to hold it up. Might be easier to stand it up against a tree or stout fence post.
Grease gearbox and U-joints. Tighten 3-point lift pins and entire frame assembly.
Be prepared and keep in mind that blades can do and will bend and break---the first time it happens it'll scare you witless---turn off the PTO, clean the seat, and drive back to the house to replace both blades and retighten everything that shook loose.
Blades can be resharpened. See what new blades are like and duplicate on your blades when they need it. 4-1/2-inch hand angle grinder is just the ticket and can be done on the machine for a touch-up.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
Very good information by Stubbyie, you can get an online PDF file to read or print from the LP website, I use it more than my paper copy.
My LP RCR2672 is five years old and the blades have several more sharpenings in them, we only sharpen every two or three years; "sharp" is a relative term on a rotary cutter.
My LP RCR2672 is five years old and the blades have several more sharpenings in them, we only sharpen every two or three years; "sharp" is a relative term on a rotary cutter.
Hello
Stubbyie has it right. The bolt kits (318-586A) are about $20 each. You will need 2. It is real cheep insurance. Original equipment blades are about $50 each.They do last longer than some of the aftermarket blades.If yours can be sharpened that is the way to go. The other thing I would ad is don't use thread lube as this will not help the lock nut lock.Also be sure the drive line telescopes in and out , so it does not put pressure on the gear box and the tractor PTO.
Good Luck Lance
Stubbyie has it right. The bolt kits (318-586A) are about $20 each. You will need 2. It is real cheep insurance. Original equipment blades are about $50 each.They do last longer than some of the aftermarket blades.If yours can be sharpened that is the way to go. The other thing I would ad is don't use thread lube as this will not help the lock nut lock.Also be sure the drive line telescopes in and out , so it does not put pressure on the gear box and the tractor PTO.
Good Luck Lance
Each makes their own choice how to maintain blades. I prefer to sharpen several times a year with very little grinding as apposed to letting the blades get a dull blunt edge which takes hours of work to get them sharp.
Former owner of my batwing had let the blades wear down to about like the side of your finger. Local dealer wanted $140 each plus shipping and it takes 6 blades.
My best advise is this. Maintain often and do it correctly. A rotary cutter can be a very dangerous implement and is no place to cut corners. If it has broke, damaged or worn parts stop now and fix it right. I have personally seen the damage a loose cutter blade can do.
Former owner of my batwing had let the blades wear down to about like the side of your finger. Local dealer wanted $140 each plus shipping and it takes 6 blades.
My best advise is this. Maintain often and do it correctly. A rotary cutter can be a very dangerous implement and is no place to cut corners. If it has broke, damaged or worn parts stop now and fix it right. I have personally seen the damage a loose cutter blade can do.
Thanks one and all for the input. Thus far I have the OEM blades and kit which has the blade bolt, blade spacer, flat washer and nut hex top lock on order. Probably an overkill in parts but it doesn't hurt to have a few extra OEM's parts on hand. I'll keep the old blades and sharpen them for a backup pair. I'll keep a look out for the necessary tools for the next change. More later after I get them put on this go round.
Stumpuller, you have the right idea for your first change. I have that exact model and it really isn't hard to change the blades as I have done it several times over the years. There is two thoughts on how sharp to make the blades. If you are cutting small trees with it, <2", then most recommend leaving the blades dull to shatter the stumps to prevent tire punctures. If it just for grass and shrubs, then sharper is better for a clean quick cut. Yes the blades do break, especially if you hit something that you didn't see, that is fairly hard. Also you have to watch when sharpening them as the manual states that they have to be within 1 ounce of difference to prevent damage to the gearbox from vibration.
Last edited:
As for balancing BH blades, Its easier than you think, Just have a good scale, and weigh each blade. Then grind a little more off'n the heavy one, till it matches the light one...