Changing Alternaror

[Dan_R_42]

I paid $113.00 for my alternator and it came with a dual V belt pulley installed already.

Awesome. Are the pulleys the correct width to match the existing pulleys on the B7100? What is the model or part number for the alternator you purchased. The price seem reasonable if the pulleys are a good match...

Then all I would need to do is make up brackets similar to what you did.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Grumpy560... Ummm I don't know why, but I think your tractor is shy a few parts!

 

[Grumpy560]

Well, I think the decision and timing have been decided for me. Yesterday the charging light came on and stayed on.
What I have done:
Last night I checked the battery -12.4 volts
Checked the alternator with the tractor running - 12.4 volts
Plugged in battery tender and left on all night until 12:30 pm

Checked battery with tender attached 13.20 volts at battery and 13.20 volts at starter
Unplugged battery tender and let the tractor set for 20 min.
Checked battery voltage 12.9 volts
Glow plugs for 45 seconds and then started tractor
Checked voltage at battery, starter and from alternator post to ground, all readings 12.70 volts
Voltage at idle, 1100rpms and 2500rpms all 12.70 volts at battery, starter and from alternator post to ground

Continuity test for three wires from alternator to regulator all good
Continuity test from alternator to starter also good
Do not know how or if a regulator can be tested

Battery cables new and over sized about 2 years ago

Am I missing anything?

10SI alternators are available with 37amp, 42amp, 55amp, 61amp, and 63amp ratings

12SI alternators are available with 56amp, 66amp, 78amp, and 94amp maximum output ratings.

56 amp 12SI are harder to find and more $$.
Pros and cons of 10si and 12si?

Best suggestion for my L275.

Any suggestions for parts that should also be changed and sourcing?
Will be rewiring everything while I am at it.

The alternator Wolfman suggested is probably the best choice on the market for our application. I'm not familiar with the L275 but there should be a way to mount it below the exhaust manifold and retain a single belt set up.

 

[Dan_R_42]

The alternator Wolfman suggested is probably the best choice on the market for our application. I'm not familiar with the L275 but there should be a way to mount it below the exhaust manifold and retain a single belt set up.

Any suggestion on tracking down a regulator for use with the three wire alternator Wolfman suggested?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291131509604?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I am now officially confused. I'm sure I read that this alternator an ER/EF type = meaning external regulator / External fan. Yet the plug that Wolfman had posted a link to is for an internal regulator.

I guess I have been looking at too many alternators trying to find the correct unit for the B7100.


My BAD !!! Sorry, Wolfman you were correct. Wolfman's link is for an IR/IF unit. Meaning Internal Regulator/ Internal Fan. I'm guessing that if Wolfman recommended it for the B7100, than the 16 HP is sufficient to crank it properly at the lower RPM's

 

[olthumpa]

Waiting for parts. Ordered the alternator and pigtail that wolfman suggested.

I have done all the gazintas and everything should fit nicely with minimal/no mods.

A couple questions:

The original alternator had three mounting tabs, (1 upper and 2 lower), the new one has two, (1 upper and 1 lower).

In the second pic the red arrows point to 2 bolts that hold the gear case to the block. Would I create any problems if I replaced them with longer bolts, added a couple of spacers and a brace for the lower alternator tab?

In the first pic the yellow rectangles show the placement of the original lower tabs and the red the lower tab for the new. Would a single bolt through the mounting bracket on the engine and through the lower tab on the new alternator be enough to hold the alternator or does it need the brace as mentioned above?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Mounting it that way should be fine.
If it were me I would consider grinding down the original mounting tab and putting a shorter bolt in there.

 

[olthumpa]

Mounting it that way should be fine.
If it were me I would consider grinding down the original mounting tab and putting a shorter bolt in there.

I assume you are talking about grinding down the right side or the mounting tab not the left where the new alternator will be. I had thought of that but was unsure of what I would gain/loose. My final thought was that the longer mounting tab would provide more stability/rigidity for the new alternator. Mounting the alternator in the manner I describer has the center of the pulley 0.04" closer to the radiator than the original. With wear on the engine mounting tab it will probably be a perfect alignment. The top mounting tab should be very close.

What are the advantages of a shorter bolt? I assume you would be grinding down the right side of the tab.
I assume that you would not fab an additional lower bracket.

1300+ pages of starters & alternators with some dimensions and some cross applications.
http://starterok.com/catalogs/cargo/alternators_starters.pdf

Cross reference look up alternator & starter

http://catalogue.alternatorstarter.com/?reset=1

Cross reference look up for many things.
http://tewarehouse.com/


Sorry for the slow response. My wife had surgery on the tenth and I am doing triple duty. She can not do anything other than therapy for at least another month, (saw the Dr. today), then slowly increase for the next 6 - 8. One of the reasons I wanted to put this off for several mths.

Thanks again for your time.

 

[Dan_R_42]

Waiting for parts. Ordered the alternator and pigtail that wolfman suggested.

COOL, I also ordered the parts Wolfman suggested for my B7100. They should be here next Tuesday. Maybe when all this snow is gone I can start to tinker with designing the brackets for a single belt design.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

olthumpa,
I was thinking of grinding down the gear case alternator mounting bracket like such on or about the yellow line, so that the single tab on the new alternator will line up where it should.

Sorry to hear about the wife, I wish her a safe and speedy recovery!

 

[olthumpa]

Thank you for your thoughts on my wife's recovery, (she is doing as expected), and your reply.

Ok, I have to admit to being a little dense or maybe a little over tired.

Are you saying that you would, - "grind down the gear case alternator mounting bracket . . . . so that the single tab on the new alternator will line up where it should", - meaning to line up the two bolts identified by the red arrows with the outer edge of the mounting tab on the alternator in order to use two shorter replacement bolts when adding a bracket under them and aligning the alternator with the surface of the cover under the two bolts -

or to align the alternator pulley with the crank pulley?


"If it were me I would consider grinding down the original mounting tab and putting a shorter bolt in there."

Shorter bolt on the lower alternator tab and engine mount - or two shorter bolts to replace those indicated by the red arrows?


Original Alternator:
A = 42mm or 1.65354in
B = 12mm or 0.472441in


Replacement Alternator:
A = 43mm or 1.69291in
B = 24mm or 0.94488in


Difference in the length of A = 0.03937in.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes I would only grind or cut off enough of the gear case alternator mount so that the new alternators pulley would line up with the water pump / fan drive and crank pulleys.
A shorter bolt would come into play because your only going through the one mounting tab on the new alternator compared to two mounting tabs on the old alternator.

 

[olthumpa]

Thanks again wolfman!

Thanks for clearing that up for me. Wanted to make sure before I did something that I would regret.

There was supposed to be two pic's attached of the two alternators with dimensions attached to them but they got lost, (again). Been having an intermittent problem attaching pic's and having them stay in the post.

 

[Dan_R_42]

Thanks again wolfman!

Thanks for clearing that up for me. Wanted to make sure before I did something that I would regret.

There was supposed to be two pic's attached of the two alternators with dimensions attached to them but they got lost, (again). Been having an intermittent problem attaching pic's and having them stay in the post.

olthumpa, Would you happen to have the actual dimensions for A, B & C for both the photos that you posted?

Thanks, Dan

 

[olthumpa]

olthumpa, Would you happen to have the actual dimensions for A, B & C for both the photos that you posted?

Thanks, Dan

The new alternator does not have a C measurement -only ont tab on the bottom.

Original Alternator:
A = 42mm or 1.65354in
B = 12mm or 0.472441in
C = 67.50 mm or 2.65748

Replacement Alternator:
A = 43mm or 1.69291in
B = 24mm or 0.94488in
C = no second tab = no measurement

Hope that helps -it there is anything that I can help with, just ask. I will do what I can to help.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If there is anything that I can help with, just ask. I will do what I can to help.

Please send lots of $$$!

 

[olthumpa]

Please send lots of $$$!

It cost more $ to ship the $$$ than it is worth but 10,000 pennies are on there way.
Now that is allot of $$$.

 

[Dan_R_42]

Since you have to remake/ alter the mount how about this?
Alternator:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291131509604?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Plug:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item259f6fbeaf&vxp=mtr

This setup works well for the RPM range of the tractor.
And it is much smaller than the GM alternator, but yes a little more $$.

Wolfman, would you happen to have the wiring diagram for this alternator & plug? I received the alternator you recommended today, but it has no documentation included. The last thing I want to do is destroy it by screwing up the wiring.

Thanks, Dan

 

[olthumpa]

Wolfman, would you happen to have the wiring diagram for this alternator & plug? I received the alternator you recommended today, but it has no documentation included. The last thing I want to do is destroy it by screwing up the wiring.

Thanks, Dan

 

[Dan_R_42]

Now that I have the parts I'm looking for ideas and inspiration. Using a small profile alternator like the photos, has anyone installed one on a B7100-D (currently with a Dynamo) as a single belt design?

I'm hoping to do the install without cutting into the engine side covers. There must be a way to do it to make it fit. So far I have not found a thread for a single belt design that stays within the engine compartment.

I see a few with the dual belt design (and they look great), but this alternator has a single pulley.

Any suggestions on placement?

PS: olthumpa, thank you for the plug wiring info. Just what I was looking for.

 

[Grumpy560]

Now that I have the parts I'm looking for ideas and inspiration. Using a small profile alternator like the photos, has anyone installed one on a B7100-D (currently with a Dynamo) as a single belt design?

I'm hoping to do the install without cutting into the engine side covers. There must be a way to do it to make it fit. So far I have not found a thread for a single belt design that stays within the engine compartment.

I see a few with the dual belt design (and they look great), but this alternator has a single pulley.

Any suggestions on placement?

PS: olthumpa, thank you for the plug wiring info. Just what I was looking for.

I also considered doing a single belt setup. I decided to take the duel belt route for 4 reasons.

1) I did not want to cut up my engine side panel.
2) I did not want to mount the alternator above or below the exhaust manifold.
3) I wanted my install to look like it came from the factory, accessibility and easy to work on or around the alternator.
4) I'm picky and methodical.

If you really want a single belt setup then you only have 3 choices.

1) cut the engine side panel and mount it out on the side.
2) mount it above the exhaust manifold. Modifications to the valve cover CCV will be required.
3) mount it below the exhaust manifold and cut the engine side panel.

Since you have the D750 with dyno there's no way to mount it below or above the injection pump. The belt will not have enough contact with the fan pulley. I've been through this delema more than once before I decided the dual belt route was simply the best way to go.

There's a good thread about doing a dual belt setup on a D750 by Sean barr and his install looked great. I would go find that post and read it if you haven't all ready done that.