Chain or gear drive tiller?

[Dhunt4work]

I will be buying a 5-6ft tiller for my L3800DT and wanted opinions on gear drive versus chain drive. I would think that gear drive would be more durable?

 

[Kingcreek]

I bought a King Kutter II gear drive based on the assumption that gear drive is usually better. it usually costs a little more too but there are some good deals if you watch for them.

 

[Balvar24]

Most people use a tiller once or twice a year. At that type of interval, I doubt it matters as long as the maintenance is performed.

 

[OldeEnglish]

I've been looking for a tiller also and have a few questions to add if I may... They are an expensive attachment and we all want to buy the right thing once!

Are the chain drives a sealed wet bath style or just under a cover and spray lubed? I haven't seen a chain driven model yet in my searching and don't really know anything about them..

I can see how a gear model would be more rigid compared to chain driven, but I would think a dry chain driven tiller with sealed bearings would be the easiest to maintain overall... Heavy roller chain is tough when it's properly adjusted/lubed, and it's easy/inexpensive to replace compared to gears, seals, and oil. Is it better to have a tiller with the "give" of a chain, or the strength of a gear box? I'm sorry to say that I am that guy who would burn up a gear box on some rock.. I've never used a tiller on a tractor, but I want one!

That's my thoughts in it, I'm curious to hear some opinions...

 

[jrslick]

This is such a strange discussion, one that comes up all the time. Most say gear driven is a "higher-end, more expensive" however, I have only seen gear driven on the lowest priced King Kutter models. Many say that Landpride is a "More Expensive, better quality tiller", but they are chain-driven. I think that either one is fine. I have a chain driven Caroni.

 

[Diydave]

I've had a chain drive befco, for at least 20 years, nothing wore out but the tines...

 

[Russell King]

olde-
I have a pretty old chain drive (Rhino brand) tiller. The PTO shaft from the tractor drives a gear box that has an output shaft out the side. That shaft is supported by a bearing at the other end. The shaft extends through the bearing and has a gear attached to the end. That drives a chain that drives another gear attached to the tine shaft. All of this is contained within a cover (shell) to keep it clean/lubricated. On mine it is just a quantity of grease (regular lithium based) that you put into the cover area.

One advantage to the chain drive is that you can adjust the speed of the tines by swapping out the gears with different ratios. I have never done this since I have just owned it for a short time.

Interestingly on mine, (I assume most would do this also) the shaft connecting the gear box to the chain drive, is a hexagonal shaft and is designed so the tiller can be moved off to one side of the tractor. The hex shaft just slides through a hex coupler in the gear box.

Long answer - sorry!

 

[HighSierra79]

Buying used or new? Budget? Usage? See what the local food plotters, landscapers use. Put eyes on various brands before you buy. Consider warr. too if new. I own two KK pieces, but my LP tiller looks like a caddy next to a work truck versus the KK tiller. But, then again, they're only pretty once

 

[Balvar24]

In order to get an orange one, I had to go Chain drive. Got no compliants so far.

 

[ShaunRH]

Chain gives you easier maintenance and some forgiveness on use.

Gear is tighter and lower maintenance but doesn't forgive abuse as much. I'd make sure it had a good clutch system as well.

 

[gpreuss]

I have a 40+ year old Howard Rotovator that is gear drive. Last year I tore it all down to overhaul it, but could find nothing wrong! All of the drive train parts were like new. Kudos for gears!!
A wet chain would probably have done as well, however. And Russel King's idea of changing sprockets to adjust speed is worth considering - I have a gear drive transmission; not HST. I often wish I could speed up the tines to get a finer cut.
The body was well worn where it dragged through the dirt. I had to beef it up a bit, particularly the base of the side gear box and the bottom of the shoe.
So I would look for weight as a prime indicator of quality. You want heavy duty.

 

[2458n]

X2 on the Howard. Mine has a gear box on the back of the tiller," selecta tilth". You can change the tiller speed using the selection of gears and the supplied charts. A lot of information that I never have used. My Kubota has 3 PTO speeds, and I just use that to end up with what I want. Talked to a man in Mich. Who told me they used the Howard Rotavator to till up Christmas tree stumps. Very pleased with the product.

 

[OldeEnglish]

olde-
I have a pretty old chain drive (Rhino brand) tiller. The PTO shaft from the tractor drives a gear box that has an output shaft out the side. That shaft is supported by a gear at the other end. The shaft extends through the bearing and has a gear attached to the end. That drives a chain that drives another gear attached to the tine shaft. All of this is contained within a cover (shell) to keep it clean/lubricated. On mine it is just a quantity of grease (regular lithium based) that you put into the cover area.

One advantage to the chain drive is that you can adjust the speed of the tines by swapping out the gears with different ratios. I have never done this since I have just owned it for a short time.

Interestingly on mine, (I assume most would do this also) the shaft connecting the gear box to the chain drive, is a hexagonal shaft and is designed so the tiller can be moved off to one side of the tractor. The hex shaft just slides through a hex coupler in the gear box.

Long answer - sorry!

Thanks for the description, basically driven like my snowblower, but good to know!

Anyone know how the brands everything attachments carries hold up to rugged soil with lots of rock? Or how other brands hold up to the same? I'm curious to hear some feedback...